What’s wanted is a sharp and pointed primer about one of the most primitive of all forms of cooking: piercing a piece of meat or a fish with a sharp stick and holding it over an open fire. Because we’re talking primitive, let us simplify the preparation, limit the equipment and use widely available ingredients. The cook is going to be a
guy because that’s the way they did it then and, to a surprising degree, that’s the way we do it nowespecially on Father’s Day.
Anyone can start the fire, but Dad gets to cook.
That he might be cooking small pieces of food strung on dainty skewers instead of playing matador with a steak so large it hangs over the side of the grill is evidence of the confluence of two trends: our willingness to eat (especially when entertaining) small portions of relatively complex preparations and our curiosity about foods from other cultures.
As prosperity spawned the suburbs in the aftermath of World War II, Americans discovered the patio, the kettle barbecue grill (introduced in 1951) and shish kebab.
“Kebab” (or kabob) is Turkish for broiled meat, The Cook’s Dictionary and Culinary Reference tells us. The meat, “almost certainly” mutton originally, became “shish kebab” when cubed or chunked and cooked on a skewer.
The meat (or, in our time, fish as well) often was marinated before cooking and just as often put on the skewers with a supporting cast of vegetables such as onion and bell pepper. In Asia, meanwhile, Indonesian and Thai cooks cut meat into thin strips (to provide more exposure to a marinade) before threading their sate (or satay) onto bamboo skewers and grilling them. And shashlik (or shashlyk) is a Russian method for grilling lamb or mutton that has been marinated with onions and then threaded on skewers.
In this decade, with steady growth in the popularity of grill cooking, with more cookbooks available that document skewer-cooked dishes from various cuisines, and with more experimentation with novel ingredient combinations, shish kebab seemed comfortably afloat in the mainstream.
It’s startling, therefore, to read this declaration by Marian Burros in “The New Elegant But Easy Cookbook” (Simon & Schuster, $25), an update of a 1960 cookbook: “Shish kebabs have been banished too (along with foil-wrapped bread and potatoes), because they are a time-consuming pain in the neck. In the amount of time it takes to stick dozens of small chunks of something or other on dozens of skewers, you could make an entire dinner.”
Hyperbole aside, it seems to me skewer cookingwhich offers fast cooking, infinite variety and easy cleanupis better suited to cooks of this era than it was to the self-conscious hostesses of the ’60s. Kebabs also suit today’s casual culinary style.
The skewers
The skewer, which makes it feasible to cook small pieces of food on an open grill, is the link that holds things together. Take it away and the pieces will fall through the grill onto the coals.
They come in three forms: metal, wood and bamboo.
Metal skewers of 12 or 18 inches are best used for larger chunks of meat and vegetables (usually intended for main course portions).
Buy skewers with flat shanks or square or twisted shafts (to prevent slippage) and remember to grease or lightly oil them to prevent sticking. To keep food from spinning on the skewer, consider buying a set of two-pronged metal skewers. (Metal skewers become hot, so do not turn or retrieve them with a bare hand.) Don’t try to push all the food off a long skewer at one time. Start about one-third of the way along. Some skewers come with a thumb guard that can be used as a food pusher.
Use bamboo or wood skewers for small, fragile items such as mushrooms and cherry tomatoes. Always soak wood skewers a minimum of 30 minutes or up to 2 hours to keep them from burning on the grill. They usually come in 6- to 8-inch lengths, or can be 15 to 18 inches long.
Wood skewers do not retain the heat as metal does and are easy to handle on the grill with a mitt or tongs. For foods that tend to spin, zucchini or scallops for example, push two skewers through the food side by side. Six-inch skewers are ideal for individual appetizer shish kebabs.
An efficient and aromatic substitute for a short wooden skewer is a strong branch of an herb such as rosemary. Leave some leaves on and soak the branches for a few minutes before using them.
Other equipment
Once the grill is fired and ready to cook, you won’t need much. Be sure to have the aforementioned mitt or mitts nearby, plus a pair of tongs, a basting brush to paint the skewers with marinade, a squirt bottle filled with water to combat flare-ups, and a clean platter for transporting cooked kebabs.
The cooker
Shish kebabs may be cooked on open or covered grills. The covered grill will cook faster and eliminate flare-ups, but it is easier to watch and tend the skewered food on an open grill. A hibachi is ideal for grilling small items on small skewers because it provides high heat in a limited space.
As a heat source I prefer charcoal, which flavors the food as well as cooks it.
Preparing the ingredients
Cut ingredients to more or less the same size-1- to 1 1/2-inch cubes or 1- by 3-inch strips, for example. Pack strips or cubes tightly if you want them cooked rare and leave space between the pieces for medium or well done. Despite the attractive visual effect when ingredients are alternated, some cooks prefer to cook vegetables and meat on separate skewers and combine them on the plate or serving platter. When you mix ingredients, avoid undercooked or burned food by precooking items such as onion, bell pepper, chunks of corn on the cob and potato, then grill them only to add color and flavor.
Marinades, which tenderize meat, add flavor and sometimes are used as a base for sauces, are popular in every culture that practices grilling. Plan ahead so the marinade has sufficient time to make its contribution (from three or four hours for thin cuts of meat, fish and vegetables to two or three days for tough cuts of beef or game). You will find marinades in the recipes here.
Cooking times are relatively brief, so exposing as much surface as possible is a good idea. Skewer round items such as zucchini slices from side to side so maximum surface is exposed to the heat.
SKEWERS OF PORK WITH ZUCCHINI AND GREEN ONIONS
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Marinating time: 3 hours or overnight
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “The Random House Barbecue and Summer Foods Cookbook,” by Margaret Fraser.
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons each: vegetable oil, lemon juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 1/4 pounds boneless pork loin, cut into 1-inch cubes
8 green onions, cut into 1-inch lengths
1 medium zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
1. Stir together garlic, oil, lemon juice, vinegar and curry powder in shallow bowl. Add pork, onions and zucchini, tossing to coat. Cover; marinate, refrigerated, 3 hours or overnight.
2. Prepare medium-hot grill. Thread pork loosely onto skewers (see note), alternating with onions threaded crosswise and zucchini. Cook, turning occasionally, until meat is browned and no longer pink inside, about 15 minutes. Season with salt.
Test kitchen note: If using wooden skewers, soak in water 30 minutes to keep from burning.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 265 Fat ………… 16 g Saturated fat .. 5 g
% calories from fat .. 55 Cholesterol … 70 mg Sodium …… 350 mg
Carbohydrates ….. 4.4 g Protein …….. 26 g Fiber …….. 1.5 g
CHICKEN TIKKA
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Marinating time: 6 hours or overnight
Cooking time: 12 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
The spices give this kebab an Indian flavor. Adapted from “Grilling for Dummies,” by Marie Rama and John Mariani.
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 11/4-inch cubes
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 medium onion, quartered
3 large cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, peeled, minced
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon each: ground cumin, turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 green bell peppers, seeded, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pint cherry tomatoes
Cooked rice
1. Place chicken in large, resealable plastic bag or medium bowl. Combine remaining ingredients except bell peppers, cherry tomatoes and rice in blender container. Puree until smooth. Pour over chicken; toss to coat well. Seal bag, pressing out any air, or cover bowl. Refrigerate 6 hours or overnight.
2. Prepare medium-hot grill. Thread chicken and bell pepper onto skewers (see note) 3 to 4 pieces each to skewer. Place skewers on grill; cook 5 to 6 minutes. Carefully thread 1 or 2 cherry tomatoes onto each hot skewer. Cook other side of skewers until chicken is cooked through and browned, about 6 minutes. Serve over rice.
Test kitchen note: If using wooden skewers, soak in water 30 minutes to keep from burning.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 200 Fat ……….. 4.6 g Saturated fat .. 1.2 g
% calories from fat .. 21 Cholesterol … 85 mg Sodium …….. 280 mg
Carbohydrates ……. 6 g Protein …….. 32 g Fiber ………. 1.3 g
TERIYAKI VEGETABLE KEBABS
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Marinating time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “The Vegetarian Grill,” by Andrea Chessman.
1 package (12 ounces) firm or extra-firm tofu
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon canola or peanut oil
1 piece (1 inch) ginger root, peeled, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup tamari, see note
1/4 cup lime juice
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1/3 cup orange or pineapple juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 stalk broccoli, florets cut into bite-size pieces, stalk sliced 1/2-inch thick, optional
4 ounces snow peas
1 red bell pepper, seeded, cut in 1-inch pieces
2 small onions, cut in 1-inch pieces
4 ounces button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed
Cooked white or brown rice
1. Wrap tofu in a kitchen towel. Place cutting board on tofu and weight with heavy can. Set aside 30 minutes to drain. Cut into 1-inch cubes.
2. For marinade, heat oils in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add ginger and garlic; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tamari, lime juice and sugar; heat to boil. Whisk orange juice and cornstarch into a smooth paste. Stir into tamari mixture; cook until sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.
3. Cook broccoli in microwave or boiling water, if using, until just tender, about 2 minutes. Plunge into ice water to stop cooking; drain.
4. Reserve half of marinade; pour remaining half into shallow dish. Add tofu, broccoli, snow peas, bell pepper, onion and mushrooms; toss gently to coat. Marinate 30 minutes.
5. Prepare medium-hot grill. Thread tofu and vegetables onto skewers (see note). Grill, turning occasionally, until vegetables are cooked through, 10 minutes. Serve skewers atop rice. Pass reserved marinade.
Test kitchen note: Tamari is a thicker version of soy sauce available at natural food stores and Japanese markets. If using wooden skewers, soak in water 30 minutes to keep from burning.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 290 Fat ………. 15 g Saturated fat .. 1.9 g
% calories from fat .. 47 Cholesterol .. 0 mg Sodium …… 2,035 mg
Carbohydrates …… 29 g Protein …… 14 g Fiber ………… 5 g
GRILLED SHRIMP WITH STRAWBERRIES AND FENNEL
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
This refreshing salad is adapted from “California Home Cooking,” by Michele Anna Jordan.
Vinaigrette:
3 tablespoons honey, warmed
2 tablespoons each: sherry vinegar, balsamic vinegar
1 shallot, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon mint leaves, cut into thin strips
Skewers:
1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled, deveined
3 pints strawberries, 1 pint sliced, remaining left whole
1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs, trimmed, thinly sliced
Mint sprigs
1. For vinaigrette, whisk together honey and vinegars in medium bowl. Stir in shallot, garlic, pepper and salt. Whisk in olive oil. Taste; add additional oil if desired. Pour small amount into small bowl for basting; add mint to reserved vinaigrette. Set aside.
2. Prepare grill. Thread each skewer (see note), alternating shrimp and whole strawberries. Brush with vinaigrette; place on grill. Cook 2 minutes. Turn; brush with vinaigrette. Cook until shrimp turn pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overcook.
3. Mix together sliced strawberries and fennel on serving platter. Place skewers on fennel and strawberries; spoon reserved vinaigrette over. Garnish with mint sprigs.
Test kitchen note: If using wooden skewers, soak 30 minutes in water to prevent burning.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 290 Fat ………… 15 g Saturated fat .. 2 g
% calories from fat .. 47 Cholesterol .. 160 mg Sodium …… 405 mg
Carbohydrates …… 22 g Protein …….. 19 g Fiber ………. 6 g
