Although vineyards were planted in this country starting in the 1850s, only in the last decade have their wines gained worldwide attention. Careful vineyard selection and limited yields to concentrate flavor are two reasons the wines have improved.
But New Zealand always has had one advantage in its bid to produce outstanding wine: its climate.
Vineyards here receive more direct sunshine than in any other viticultural region in the world. Yet because the climate is maritime, temperatures remain moderate. This long growing season assures ripeness without chasing off the acidity that keeps wines refreshing.
According to Robert Whale, a Washington, D.C., importer of New Zealand wines, the resulting wines are striking. “These wines have intensity, great length and balance,” Whale says.
The wines that best display these characteristics are the sauvignon blancs from the Marlborough district. Near the northern tip of the South Island (the less populated of the country’s two islands), Marlborough receives even more sunshine than other parts of New Zealand.
In the mid 1980s, several wineries were established here amid the orchards and stony soils of the river valleys. One of these wineries, Cloudy Bay, began to specialize in sauvignon blanc from local grapes. The results were spectacular at once. Its aromas and flavors were exotic, and very different from sauvignon blancs made anywhere else in the world.
But what happened at Cloudy Bay started happening at other Marlborough wineries: sauvignon blancs with flavors of honeydew melon, passion fruit, sweet pea. As with sauvignon blancs grown elsewhere, these also have an herbal or grassy character.
In cool years in Marlborough, the herbal notes can be excessive. But in warm growing seasons such as 1996 and 1997, these flavors are at a minimum, allowing all the intense fruit flavors to emerge. The recently released 1997 Cloudy Bay and the 1996 Nautilus Estate ($18 each) are classic examples of this style.
Chardonnays from Marlborough are also first-class. These wines tend to be richer and fatter than the sauvignon blancs, and most spend more time in oak. The 1996 chardonnays from Tasman Bay and Wairau River ($18 and $20) display flavors of baked apples and tropical fruit with distinct oak. One of the finest chardonnays from this district is the Grove Mill Landsdowne ($20). The current offering, also from 1996, represents the best lots of chardonnay the winery harvests each year, and is fermented in small oak barrels. The wine has flavors of oranges, mangoes and ripe apples with subtle oak and a long, elegant finish. This is comparable to the finest chardonnays produced in France and the United States.
Red wines from New Zealand have yet to live up to the standard set by the whites, but some notable offerings are available. Although pinot noir is excellent on occasion, very little is available in the U.S.
Look instead to merlot, which is the country’s most consistent red wine. The best come from Hawkes Bay, a district near the west coast of North Island. Merlots here are fruity, with straightforward flavors and moderate tannins.
Try the 1995 Longridge ($12) with its ripe blackberry flavors and herbal characteristics, or the 1996 Te Awa “Longlands” selection ($15), with its rich raspberry fruit and supple finish.
Despite the reputation of some New Zealand wines, even drinkers who love Australian wine often are unfamiliar with the products from its nearby neighbor.
“One problem with sales is the fact that New Zealand hasn’t had a great volume of wine,” says David Langford, a New Zealand native now living in north suburban Chicago. Langford, who sells wines from New Zealand and Australia, suggests that will change. “There have been a lot of new plantings recently, and that includes white and red grapes.”
Tom Paulik, who manages the New Zealand department at Sam’s in Chicago, reports limited success. “Most of the sales have been with white wines and much is purchased by people who have visited there.”
But Paulik is optimistic. “It is easy to convince customers, especially given the reasonable prices of these wines. They are a bit of a hand-sell, but once people try them, it is an easy switch.”
So though New Zealand wines may be struggling a bit in sales, the future looks bright. Take it from Bill Pigati, owner of Del Rio Restaurant in north suburban Highwood.
Pigati, who has been buying wines for the restaurant for more than 25 years, recently returned from a trip to New Zealand.
“The industry there reminds me of Napa Valley in the late 1960s and early 1970s,” he said. “There is so much experimentation going on, with vintners sharing ideas on how to improve wines.”
And we know what happened in California.
