Strawberries, raspberries, blueberries: For purists, there’s only one way to enjoy these and other summer berries–fresh (and often). For them, nothing in a jelly jar or freezer bag measures up to the fruity perfume and flavor of fresh, ripe berries. For such people, bliss is a little cake, a little cream and a big bowl of these juicy summer jewels.
Success tips
– Fresh strawberries should be highly fragrant and fully red, with hulls attached.
– Raspberries (red, black or gold) should give off a distinct perfume and be fully ripe, with no pale areas. Their caps should not be attached.
– Blueberries should be deep blue with a silver-white bloom, firm and plump. Their stems should not be attached.
– At home, berries should be turned out of their baskets or cartons and inspected for moldy or bruised fruit.
– Berries should be stored unwashed. If washing is needed, it should be done just before using the berries, and they should be well drained.
– Raspberries and strawberries should be refrigerated uncovered or loosely wrapped; blueberries should be tightly wrapped.
– Raspberries should be eaten within one or two days; strawberries, three days; and blueberries, seven to 10 days.
BERRIES WITH BROWN-SUGAR POUNDCAKE AND CREME FRAICHE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Standing time: At least 1 day
Cooking time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Yield: One 9-inch loaf, 10 servings
This cake is better the second day. The creme fraiche also must be prepared at least a day ahead. Keep in mind that ultra-pasteurized whipping cream, which is subjected to very high heat to extend its shelf life, will not work in this recipe. Most wine shops carry raspberry eau de vie, a liqueur also known as framboise. Adapted from “Cooking A to Z.”
Creme fraiche:
1 cup pasteurized whipping cream (not ultra-pasteurized)
1 tablespoon buttermilk
Cake:
1/2 cup unsalted butter, slightly softened, plus more for greasing pan
Sugar for dusting pan
1 cup dark brown sugar
4 large eggs
Pinch salt
1 teaspoon each: vanilla extract, grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 cups unbleached flour
3 tablespoons sour cream or creme fraiche
1/2 cup toasted almonds, ground medium-fine, see note
Berries:
4 cups mixed fresh berries, washed, drained
1/4 cup raspberry eau de vie or Cognac
Sugar, if necessary
1. At least 1 day before serving, combine cream and buttermilk in a clean glass jar. Cover and shake 30 seconds to blend. Store at room temperature until thickened (24 to 36 hours), then refrigerate. (Creme fraiche will keep 5 to 7 days in the refrigerator.)
2. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter a 9-inch loaf pan. Sprinkle interior with granulated sugar, shaking out excess.
3. With an electric mixer, cream 1/2 cup butter until smooth. Add brown sugar gradually and beat until light. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in salt, vanilla, lemon zest and allspice. On lowest speed, add 1 cup of the flour and beat just until blended. Add sour cream and beat to blend. Add remaining 1 cup flour and almonds, beating just to blend. Batter will be very thick and sticky.
4. Turn batter into pan and smooth top. Bake until top is firm and a cake tester comes out dry, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool in pan 2 minutes, then remove and cool right-side up on a rack.
5. Combine berries and eau de vie in a medium bowl. Add sugar if berries are not sufficiently sweet. Let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Serve poundcake in thin slices with berries on the side or on top. Pass pitcher of cold creme fraiche.
Test kitchen note: To toast almonds, heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add nuts; stir constantly until they become golden. Quickly remove them from pan to stop browning.
Nutrition information per serving (with creme fraiche):
Calories ………… 390 Fat ………… 21 g Saturated fat …. 10 g
% calories from fat .. 48 Cholesterol .. 130 mg Sodium ………. 95 mg
Carbohydrates …… 42 g Protein ……… 7 g Fiber ……….. 3.6 g
