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Egg Harbor Cafe hatched its first restaurant in 1985. Since then nine have come to roost in the suburbs. You’ll find no hamburgers or beef burritos here; only poultry, eggs and more poultry, with a rare albacore tuna thrown in. Oh, an occasional strip of bacon may find its way onto your plate, but it’s only there to enhance the specialties of the house-you got it-poultry and eggs. Don’t look for appetizers or desserts because there aren’t any.

The ambience is airy. Eggshell-colored paint coats the walls, which hold posters of eggs and chickens. Booths and tables allow plenty of seating. Service is friendly and efficient.

Go for breakfast or lunch-they’re closed for dinner. We indulged in lunch dishes, though the breakfast dishes (served all day) look very appealing. They include crepes ($5.75 to $6.75), eggs Benedict ($6.95) and frittata skillets ($5.95 to $6.75) as well as many other dishes.

We started with cream of chicken with wild rice soup ($2.25). Rich, creamy and chock-full of nutty flavor, this soup is thick and well seasoned, no salt or pepper needed.

The teriyaki pita ($6.95) was a special that day, but this dish deserves daily menu status. Soft pita bread is topped with tender strips of chicken breast, stir-fried red and green bell peppers, onions and mushrooms; these ingredients are tossed with a mild teriyaki sauce. If you’re looking for hot and spicy, ask for a bottle of hot pepper sauce to sprinkle over the top.

Wraps are a popular alternative to sandwiches, and the Santa Fe chicken salad roll-ups ($6.75) are a delicious example. Chunks of tender white meat are coated with mayonnaise and rolled up in a flour tortilla. A fresh tomato and cilantro salsa, melted cheeses (predominately Cheddar) and sour cream top each wrap.

Share Egg Harbor’s hearty California Club ($6.95) with a friend. Real, not pressed, tender white turkey meat teams with ripe avocado, crisp bacon, juicy tomato, cheese and sprouts piled on honey-oat bran bread.

All entrees and sandwiches come with potatoes and tossed salad. The cubes of pan-fried spuds make a nice alternative to fries. The romaine lettuce, tomato and cucumber salad tastes ordinary, but the house dressing, a homemade poppyseed with just a hint of sweetness, makes it memorable. Other dressings are available.

Hot, iced and herbal teas, soft drinks, regular and decaf coffee (all $1.35) all come with free refills. Fresh-squeezed orange juice and grapefruit juice come in three sizes, 8-ounce glass ($1.45), 12-ounce glass ($1.95) and carafe ($4.50).

Children are welcome at Egg Harbor Cafe. They receive a “little chicks” coloring place mat that features “Captain Egg” showing off the menu of 12 items. The lineup includes rainbow pancakes ($2.50) made with multi-colored chocolate pieces; the kid’s combo plate ($2.50) with one egg, toast and 2 pieces of bacon or sausage; and Little Chicks ($3.25), breaded chunks of chicken served with potatoes and barbecue sauce. Children get to take home the red plastic cup with lid that comes with their drink: pop, milk or juice ($1.25).

Egg Harbor cafe is a very good value, whether it’s for breakfast or lunch.

———-

Good eggs

(3 forks)

Breakfast and lunch a sure bet at Hinsdale cafe

777 N. York Rd., Hinsdale

630-920-1344

6:30 a.m.-2 p.m. daily

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class

3 forks: Better than most

2 forks: Very good fare

1 fork: Middle of the road

Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.