The Old Navy clothing store opened with a big splash in the Loop this summer, hyped along with hip television ads and a surplus of fashionable cargo pants. We in Good Eating aren’t concerned with the whims of fashion, however; our sights were set on the chow line.
That’s at Torpedo Joe’s, the second-floor cafeteria-style dining area Old Navy has conveniently set up so that shoppers exhausted by the need to find the right-fitting sweater can sit a spell and have a hot lunch and a cool drink. And though the food is pretty crummy at most quick-service restaurants catering to teenage shoppers, we were really pleased with this grub.
The big board menu highlights submarine sandwiches, which are what we targeted first. A great value at $3.50 each, served on soft and chewy split rolls, the choices include a moist and sprightly Italian, the S.S. Genoa, with sliced deli meats, cheese and chopped pepper salad in vinaigrette; the Schooner, a generous spread of chunky, fresh-tasting tuna salad topped with sliced Cheddar (like an unmelted tuna melt); and the Officer’s Club, standard layers of turkey, ham and bacon. Other meat and vegetable combinations round out the rest of the 10 selections.
Everyone zeroed in on the Full Boat, the meatball sub, but opinions were mixed. Hot, saucy and generously loaded with meatballs and a layer of melted provolone and Parmesan cheeses, one taster thought the meat a little too firmly packed; another felt the tomato sauce was too thick, though we agree it was probably designed that way to keep from running all over the sides of the sandwich. Others, like myself, think the whole thing is pretty terrific.
Regardless, the ingredients for all the sandwiches seem to be made from good-quality ingredients. The condiments and fixings behind the counter are neatly displayed and obviously freshly prepared.
Customers walk up and carry out, or head to table and counter seating for about 60 people. Orders are prepared quickly, but if you hate to waste a minute just watching, grab one of the complimentary newspapers from the rack (we can suggest one in particular). Tables are flanked by upholstered banquettes or individual seats. The decor is accented with orange paint and steel fixtures, which may be regulation for Old Navy but makes for a somewhat jarring atmosphere. Of course, this isn’t quite the place for quiet conversation, because the sound system loudly provides an energetic background of funk and disco.
Portions are generous, considering the price. Even the simple Basic Training salad ($2), with dark greens, moist shredded carrots, sliced cucumbers, nice tomatoes and big sourdough croutons is a meal in itself. The cup of Steam Engine Chili ($2.50) is mildly spiced but good and filling, with a topping of cheese, onions and sour cream.
Bags of chips pass overhead on an assembly line fixture, and lead your eyes over to the list of South Sea Smoothies ($3). We liked the Pacific Sunset, a blend of strawberries, bananas, apple juice and non-fat yogurt, and the Deep Blue Sea, non-fat yogurt pureed with blueberries, raspberries and apple juice.
Dessert choices are a great selection of cookies ($1) and muffins ($1.10). Note that pastries are 70 cents or $1 with a cup of coffee, up until 11 a.m. during the week. Chocolate chip, peanut butter and oatmeal-raisin cookies were better than homemade; banana nut, blueberry and chocolate cappuccino chunk muffins are less wonderful, but moist and just sweet enough.
Sodas and a good lemonade (all 95 cents) are self-serve; drink refills are free, another nice touch.
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Torpedo Joe’s
(3 forks)
Old Navy store, 2nd floor
35 N. State St.
312-551-1515
Hours: 8:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, CB, D, DC, M, V
Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class
3 forks: Better than most
2 forks: Very good fare
1 fork: Middle of the road
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
