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St. Louis Bread Co. just changed its name. The chain says that Panera Bread, its new name, is a more evocative expression of the stores’ passion for fresh-baked bread. Each cafe still makes its own breads, bagels and pastries.

But Panera is not just for bread; come for sandwiches, salads and soups as well.

The La Grange Park outpost is in a strip mall. Order at the counter. Joyce, who took our order, was extremely pleasant, efficient and helpful in selecting food for the toddler in our group. And though the room is large, it feels cozy and inviting. Plants and low dividers break up the space. Most tables seat two to four, so larger groups may need to pull tables together.

The selection of homemade soups changes daily. You can order a bowl of soup ($2.55) that comes with a sourdough roll, or soup in a sourdough bread bowl ($3.95). The French onion soup in the bread bowl is wonderful: caramelized onions in a rich, thick beef broth with melted Gruyere cheese covering the top. It’s a meal in itself.

Loaded with thick noodles, fresh vegetables and a moderate amount of chicken, the low-fat chicken noodle soup was a pleasant surprise. We were skeptical because of it being low-fat, but we couldn’t tell the difference.

Salads are accompanied by a choice of a sourdough or French roll. The Caesar salad ($4.25) mixes crisp, fresh romaine and iceberg lettuce (mainly romaine) with just the right amount of dressing. The Parmesan cheese is freshly grated and the homemade Asiago croutons add delicious crunch.

The tuna salad sandwich ($4.55) is made with albacore tuna. It comes on honey-wheat bread topped with spicy mustard, leaf lettuce, red onion, tomato and sprouts. We spent an extra 65 cents for avocado. These fresh, high-quality ingredients make this sandwich a winner. A pickle spear and a bag of potato chips accompany each sandwich.

Fresh tomato-basil bread is perfect in the bacon turkey bravo sandwich ($5.25). Between thick slices of bread are sliced turkey (unfortunately, deli-style instead of house-cooked), crisp bacon, smoked Gouda, leaf lettuce, tomato and red onion. A nice flavor mix.

A creamy horseradish sauce adds a great kick to the Asiago roast beef sandwich ($5.50), without making it too hot. The beef is tender and flavorful. The sandwich’s Asiago baguette has a subtle, nutty flavor and is stacked with smoked Cheddar, leaf lettuce, tomato and red onion along with the roast beef and the sauce.

A bear claw and a brownie (each $1.25) provide a sweet end to the meal. The bear claw is delicious. Layers of crisp yet tender, flaky pastry encase a not-too-sweet filling of chunks of almonds, not the usual canned, overprocessed almond paste. Unfortunately, the dry brownie lacks a full chocolate flavor and texture.

here are many drinks to choose from. The I.C. Java ($2.25, $2.95, $3.45) makes a great choice with rich espresso blended into an icy, slightly sweet drink that’s low in fat. The freshly prepared home-style lemonade ($1.45), not too sweet or sour, is refreshing.

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Panera Bread

(3 forks)

439 N. La Grange Rd., La Grange Park

708-482-8070

Hours: 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.

Credit cards: A, D, M, V

Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class

3 forks: Better than most

2 forks: Very good fare

1 fork: Middle of the road

Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.