The soft light of candles, a harvest of fruit in a large serving bowl and accents of red and green throughout the table setting will be found in millions of holiday homes over the next few days. But these decorative elements have a unique symbolism quite apart from Christmas for African-American families celebrating Kwanzaa (which begins Saturday and continues through Jan. 1) with a series of cultural and spiritual festivities. Seven candles represent the principles of the holiday, such as unity, creativity and faith; the red and green are part of the table linens, also striped with black and gold, that honor African heritage.
Though this holiday has important, fixed symbols used to mark the cultural reaffirmation that Kwanzaa encourages, the food traditions still are evolving.
“Many people of African descent are using this time to rediscover their connections; foods are being used in a teaching way,” says Ramon Price, chief curator of the DuSable Museum of African-American History, 740 E. 56th Pl. “It has caused more of us to look at the African diaspora and discover Brazilian food, Caribbean food. We’ve all learned about plantains; and Jamaican jerk chicken has become part of the table setting.”
The relative youth of this holiday has played a part in the fluidity of the menu. Kwanzaa was created in 1966 by California State University professor Maulana Karenga to help African-Americans living through the civil rights struggles focus on and reclaim their rich African heritage. Over a week’s time, celebrants honor their past and strengthen their purpose for the future through prayer, discussion, storytelling, music and the exchange of gifts.
A feast takes place the evening of Dec. 31. And on the table is an edible composition of the modern African-American experience.
“In the beginning it was sort of a continuation of what you would eat for Christmas and New Year’s,” says Kocoa Winbush, a food consultant and cooking teacher in the Chatham neighborhood who has been celebrating Kwanzaa for the last 10 years. “Chitterlings were definitely a part of the community table, and gumbo was very important. I like to do a soup with catfish and shrimp. Banana breadthat is definitely African.
“But it changes,” Winbush says. “I would imagine that people in different parts of the country have different things on the table. But we’ve always looked at how to adapt; improvisation is something that has kept us going as a people.”
Michael Smith, owner of the Taste of Cajun restaurant and catering business on the West Side, says his customers are getting away from traditional holiday foodsstuffing and roast turkey-and are asking for deep-fried turkey and jambalaya that have a more African influence.
What’s important to the holiday, Winbush and others say, is that the foods reflect the joy of a feast and bring to mind some aspect of the culture.
“What Karenga attempted to do was promote the appreciation of African foods,” Winbush says.
In her book “A Kwanzaa Celebration,” Angela Shelf Medearis writes:
“We relish spicy okra gumbos, sesame-covered snacks, expertly seasoned greens, dried and smoked fish, helpings of black-eyed peas and rice, and handfuls of peanuts without ever really considering how these foods came to America . Choosing recipes that contain ingredients which can be traced back to Africa is a culinary way of celebrating the principles of Kwanzaa.”
Price agrees. “Kwanzaa has really afforded the opportunity to do some great cultural study,” he says.
Jessica B. Harris, a New York cookbook author and lecturer, says that Kwanzaa has a “pan-African outlook” that encourages celebrants to wear African dress and investigate customs from all over the continent.
Harris’ newest book is “The Africa Cookbook” (Simon & Schuster, $25), and although her Southern roots mandate that her New Year’s Day Kwanzaa feast include collard greens, black-eyed peas and rice, she also prepares something African, such as the Senegalese chicken stew she includes in the new book.
When preparing your own Kwanzaa meal, Harris has some suggestions from her previous book, “A Kwanzaa Keepsake”:
The fruits and vegetables that represent the harvest aspect of the celebration could be chosen from African-American food traditions. Sweet potatoes, pumpkins and squashes, presented in straw baskets, give the table a golden accent; sugar cane, melons and mangoes are other possible centerpieces.
Ears of corn placed on the table represent the number of children in the household, although even childless homes are encouraged to put out an ear of corn to symbolize the responsibility of everyone for the welfare of children.
Above all, make your home a place where people feel welcome.
“For all of its serious principles, though, Kwanzaa is also a time of feasting, of rejoicing, of savoring friendships and ties with the family,” Harris writes. “Part of that communion of family and friends takes place around the table, and the communion of the table is a good part of the warmth of the holiday.”
KOCOA’S BLACK-EYED PEA SALAD
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Marinating time: Overnight
Adapted from a recipe by Chicago cooking teacher Kocoa Winbush.
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup rice vinegar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons orange juice
3/4 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cans (15 ounces each) black-eyed peas, drained, rinsed
2 green onions, sliced
1 each, diced small: red bell pepper, celery rib, small peeled jicama, peeled carrot
1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1. Stir together garlic, vinegar, oil, juice, mustards, salt and pepper in medium bowl. Add peas, green onions, bell pepper, celery, jicama, carrot and cilantro; stir well.
2. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight; serve cold.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 155 Fat ………… 6 g Saturated fat .. 0.9 g
% calories from fat .. 33 Cholesterol … 0 mg Sodium …….. 340 mg
Carbohydrates …… 21 g Protein …….. 6 g Fiber ………… 7 g
SENEGALESE CHICKEN YASSA
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Marining Time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yeild: 4 servings
This favorite recipe of Jessica B. Harris, from her book “The Africa Cookbook,” makes a comforting chicken stew spiced with hot peppers and rich with stuffed olives.
1 1/2 fresh habanero or other hot chili, to taste
4 large onions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon peanut oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
1 chicken (2 1/2 to 3 1/2 pounds), cut into serving pieces
4 carrots, peeled, thinly sliced
3/4 cup pimiento-stuffed olives
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
Cooked white rice for serving
1. Mince 1/2 habanero. Stir together minced habanero, onions, 1 /4 cup of the oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper in large non-reactive bowl. Place chicken pieces in marinade, tossing to coat. Marinate at least 2 hours in refrigerator.2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 3-quart Dutch oven or large skillet. Remove chicken pieces from marinade, reserving marinade. Add chicken to Dutch oven; brown on all sides. Remove; set aside. Remove onions from marinade and add to Dutch oven. Cook until tender and translucent, about 6 minutes. Add remaining marinade; heat through.
3. Prick remaining habanero with fork. Add habanero, chicken pieces, carrots, olives, water and mustard to Dutch oven. Stir to mix well. Heat to boil. Lower heat; simmer until chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Serve hot over white rice.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 600 Fat ………… 39 g Saturated fat … 9 g
% calories from fat .. 57 Sodium ……..455 mg Cholesterol .. 120 mg
Carbohydrates …… 25 g Protein …….. 40 g Fiber ……….. 5 g
SPICY FRIED PLANTAINS (KELEWELE)
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Standing time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes per batch
Yeild: 8 servings
This snack or side dish is adapted from “Kwanzaa: An African-American Celebration of Culture and Cooking,” by Eric. V. Copage. Plantains, which resemble bananas, are available at Latin markets or in the imported produce aisles in some supermarkets.
4 large yellow-ripe plantains, peeled
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon each: ground red pepper, salt
1/4 teaspoon each: grated nutmeg, ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons warm water
Vegetable oil for frying
1. Cut plantains into diagonal slices about 1 /2-inch thick. Stir together ginger, cloves, red pepper, salt, nutmeg and cinnamon in medium bowl. Stir in water to form paste. Add plantain slices; toss to coat. Let stand 30 minutes.
2. Heat oven to 200 degrees. Pour enough vegetable oil into large skillet to reach 1/2-inch up sides. Heat oil over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. (An electric skillet should be set at 350 degrees.) Fry plantain slices, in batches, turning once, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer fried plantains with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined baking sheet; keep warm in oven while frying remaining plantains.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 205 Fat ………… 7g Saturated fat .. 1.2 g
% caloris from fat … 30 Cholesterol .. 0 mg Sodium …….. 150 mg
Carbohydrates …… 37 g Proten …… 1.6 g Fiber ………… 3 g
SESAME SEED WAFERS
Preparation: time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 8 dozen
These crisp cookies from “A Kwanzaa Celebration,” by Angela Shelf Medearis, go nicely with tea or punch.
1 large egg
2 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
3/4 cup vegetable oil
1 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Combine egg, brown sugar and oil in large bowl. Whisk until well blended. Stir in flour, baking powder and salt. Mix well. Add sesame seeds and vanilla.
2. Drop dough, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, onto lightly greased baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Allow wafers to cool, at least 2 to 3 minutes on sheet, to prevent breakage. Remove to wire rack. Repeat with remaining dough. Store wafers in covered container.
Nutrition information per cookie:
Calories …………. 45 Fat ………… 2.3 g Saturated fat .. 0.3 g
% cakirues from fat .. 45 Sodium ……… 11 mg Cholesterol ….. 3 mg
Carbohydrates ……. 6 g Protein ………. 6 g Fiber ………. 0.2 g
