In the middle of Wild River State Park, a ski’s length from 35 miles of groomed trails and a 10-minute trek from the St. Croix River, sits a cozy little house surrounded by forest.
For one night earlier this winter, the two-bedroom, carpeted house, a private residence built not long before the park was established in 1978, belonged to me and my children. We arrived at dusk, and my children swarmed over it as only children can do, giving a running commentary: “Boy, this is a nice cabin,” said 6-year-old Peter. “Wow, a nice shower. Isn’t this great? And oh, look” — he peered out the window at a big thermometer — “you can tell the temperature.”
It was 0 degrees. But we settled in happily, building a fire in the wood-burning stone hearth, making spaghetti in the modern kitchen, then sliding a movie into the VCR and watching it while eating microwave popcorn. It was a little odd, being the only humans that night in one of Minnesota’s largest state parks, but we were definitely comfortable.
Who needs rustic, anyway? Very few, we concluded later, reading entries in the three cabin journals. “This place is utopia, nirvana and heaven all rolled into one,” wrote Eric and Kris from Minneapolis in March 1997. A Wisconsin man wrote, “I would like to rent this for the rest of my life.” One woman asked those reading the journals to refrain from renting the house on Valentine’s Day, so she could have it.
Fat chance. The competition for Minnesota’s state-park guest houses is fierce. When I called on Oct. 8, I was pleasantly surprised that the nights of Dec. 29-30, a Tuesday and Wednesday during school holidays, were available, and I told the Connection reservationist I’d take them. But I rejoiced too soon.
“Funny, now I show that as unavailable,” she said. “No kidding — someone must’ve reserved it as we were talking. I guess that’s a very popular place.”
The only other night available during a winter weekend, holiday or school-break day was Tuesday, Dec. 22. I knew there might not be snow then, a shame considering Wild River’s great ski trails, but I took it.
And we had a wonderful time, even though there wasn’t enough snow to ski. We awoke to brilliant sunshine and the same 0-degree temperature, but we bundled up and headed into the woods. I wanted to take the trail from our door down to the river and the old Nevers Dam site, but 9-year-old Madeleine complained.
“Why do we have to stick to a trail when we can go through the trees?” she asked. The park had turned them into Lewis and Clark. They scampered up the trunk of a fallen tree and, when we got to the river, set out investigating its banks.
After the infamous Taylors Falls log jam of 1886, a dam was built there to regulate the flow of logs. Now it’s long gone, but there’s an overlook with interpretive plaques about the logging era and a stairway leading to the water. The children ran down it to explore, stomping on the ice closest to the banks, drawing in the snow with sticks and gingerly walking across a crackling slough that was sheathed in feathery ice crystals. I walked downriver to get a closer look at six enormous white birds that were arching long necks with hypnotic synchronicity. They were the park’s resident trumpeter swans, fishing off a sandbar in open water.
Then we walked along the River Trail and climbed 164 steps back up the hill. Along the bluff, we stopped by the park’s two camper cabins, which have great views of the St. Croix Valley. They’re popular, too, though not so luxurious.
Back at the cabin, we washed the dishes, vacuumed and headed home, stopping to buy Swedish potato sausage at Rod’s Country Corner store in Almelund, which is a good place to buy last-minute groceries or rent a video on the way to Wild River. We took the scenic route home, past Wild Mountain Ski Area and through Taylors Falls to Interstate State Park, where Madeleine and Peter had a swell time clambering through the boulders and sliding on the bottom of the 35-foot Bake Oven pothole, which had turned into an otherworldly ice rink. At the top of the hill above town, we stopped at the Franconia Sculpture Park and explored the field of installations, from an oversized yellow atom to a gazebo with swinging glass walls.
It was a short but sweet expedition, and the children loved it. Wild River is especially popular because it’s close to the Twin Cities, but each state park guest house has something special to offer. And in the winter, there’s the added draw of absolute quiet.
“In winter, a lot of folks like having the park all to themselves,” says Marty Torgerson, manager of Bear Head Lake State Park near Ely, which has a large guest house. “You can stand on the deck listening to the wolves howling and the trees popping, and experience what a true cold Minnesota night is all about.”
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Wild River State Park is about 60 miles north of St. Paul, Minn.
SPECIAL EVENTS
Tapping a Tree maple-syrup programs, 1 p.m. March 20-21 and 27-28. Making Syrup, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. April 10-11 and 17-18. Reserve spots now if interested. 651-583-2925.
Cross-country skis can be rented ($12 adults, $8 children) at the Trail Center, which has a fireplace and snack bar; 800-996-4448. The McElroy Visitor Center has exhibits and rents snowshoes ($6).
Wild Mountain ski area is 10 miles away; 651-257-3550 or 800-447-4958. Lift tickets are $17-$28, rental $12-$16.
LODGING
Wild River Guest House rents for $75 and sleeps eight, with a rollaway bed and futon sofa, but four would be a more comfortable number. Guests must bring bedding and towels. The kitchen is fully equipped. Soap, some condiments and firewood are provided. Guests are expected to clean the house before leaving. Check-in is at 4 p.m. Check-out is at 1 p.m. Many winter weekday nights are available. Reserve up to a year in advance by calling the Connection, 612-922-9000 or 800-246-2267.
The park also has two heated camper cabins ($30) with bunks and table but no running water. Latrine is outside. Reserve a year in advance through the Connection.
Bear Head Lake near Ely has a three-bedroom, 1 3/4-bath house that sleeps 10 and includes use of a double garage and, in summer, a fishing boat or canoe ($120); 218-365-7229. St. Croix near Hinckley has a six-bedroom, two-bath house that sleeps 15 ($140) and another due to open this year; 320-384-6591. Savanna Portage, north of McGregor and west of Cloquet, has a one-bedroom house on Savanna Lake with gas fireplace, garage and use of a rowboat ($70); 218-426-3271. Scenic, north of Grand Rapids, has a four-bedroom, 1 3/4-bath house that sleeps 10 ($120) but now is under repair; 218-743-3362. Reserve through the Connection.
INFORMATION
Wild River, 651-583-2125. DNR Information Center, 651-296-6157 or 800-766-6000 from outstate Minnesota; www.dnr.state.mn.us.
