Ed Debevic’s has its fans, folks who don’t mind getting yelled at when they accidentally walk on the wrong side of the aisle en route to the hostess, and who think it’s a laugh riot when the waitress pushes menus and food on the table with well-rehearsed disdain.
“Rehearsed” being the key word here.
For the uninformed, rudeness is the shtick at Ed Debevic’s-harking back to the good old days of ’50s diners and impertinent waitresses. (Or, more plausibly, Hollywood’s depiction thereof.) Performances I want at the Shubert, not at lunch, but it must be acknowledged that the teenagers and tourists who flock to Ed’s seem to be having a cool, neat-o and altogether fabulously Fonzarelli time. (And, on a subsequent visit, the hostess was a sweetheart and our waitress only brusque.)
Ed’s menu offerings rekindle the good old days, too, and its classic burger and fries offerings get fine treatment.
Ten offerings star in the hamburger lineup. The Route 66 Burger ($5.95) is big and sassy, cooked to order with an ample cast of Monterey jack cheese, fresh avocado and crispy bacon on toasted sourdough bread. The bread arrives fresh but it isn’t quite sturdy enough to contain the substantial foods in its embrace.
Burgers come with a pickle. If you want french fries, they’re extra ($1.90; basket for two, $2.70). But the good news is, they’re worth it. The thin, golden fries arrive piping hot, crisp on the outside, fresh and soft within. For a real treat, try the cheese fries smothered in melted Cheddar ($2.90; serves two) .
The onion “straws” ($2.95) proved a disappointment, arriving lukewarm with a soft, not crisp, exterior.
What better accompaniment for a burger and fries than a double-chocolate milkshake ($3.60)? (Double refers to the extra flavor, not the size.) This beverage/dessert is a winner, sweet, chocolatey and thick, if a bit diminutive for the price. It’s one of many “fountain creations” on the lineup. The black cow ($2.85) comes fully loaded with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream, but the root beer, though sweet and gingery, was not cold enough. For a lighter approach, try the chocolate phosphate ($1.80), which is sweet but not cloying.
Another beverage option is a bar creation-beer, wine and cocktails are available.
The menu offers a broad spectrum of classic comfort foods, served in generous portions. None beat that hamburger, though.
The respectable sloppy Joe ($5.50), piled high on a fresh, soft hamburger bun, delivers a good beef flavor but with a vinegary overtone. It’s one of the few sandwiches that comes with fries-an ample amount-so that’s a plus.
Bigger appetites will be appeased by an order from the “deluxe platters” section: chicken-fried steak, roast turkey, pot roast. We opted for Ed’s Mom’s Meatloaf ($6.30). The large, thick slice of the all-beef entree is high on salt but low on other seasonings. Its soft texture is a bit disappointing too. The gravy, though, is thick and rich, complementing the meat and the real star of this platter: fluffy yet thick mashed potatoes. Overcooked carrots and broccoli add little to the meal.
If you still crave sweetness after a “fountain creation” (we didn’t), desserts include banana cream pie, fruit cobbler and apple pie.
It’s worth mentioning that the deejay on duty plays golden oldies very, very loudly. You’ll want to sit in the back, away from the speakers.
Or maybe not. If you’re a teenager or a tourist, this is all part of the fun.
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Ed Debevic’s
(1 fork)
640 N. Wells St.
312-664-1707
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: A, DC, D, M, V
Noise rating: Bring earplugs
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
