Get a bunch of native Chicagoans together and they’ll never come to a consensus on Navy Pier. The pier, which underwent a massive renovation in 1989, has been called everything from a lakeside treasure to Disneyland-on-the-Lake.
Some resent the fact that Navy Pier has been sanitized. Others are thrilled that the pier has become a place where families can entertain kids, couples can hear jazz and everyone can take in the spectacular city skyline. There’s no doubt that the pier, built in 1916 as a freight terminal and public recreation facility, has gone through many changes — the latest of which is decidedly commercial.
Navy Pier is a showcase for the city, and the city works hard to make sure it stays that way.
Highlights
Navy Pier juts into Lake Michigan on downtown’s near north side at Grand Avenue and Lake Shore Drive. The mile-long complex opens at 10 a.m. daily. Closing times vary. From October through May, the lights dim at 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday; at 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 7 p.m. Sunday. From June until September, it closes at 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and midnight Friday and Saturday.
There’s no better way to take in the magnificent Chicago skyline than to sail along Lake Michigan on a sunny summer day. *Windy, the pier’s resident 148-foot, four-masted schooner, does 90-minute skyline cruises every day. Passengers can even raise and trim the 11 sails on the ship and take turns at the wheel.
If you have a need for speed, motor boats cover the waterfront. The zippy *Seadog boats and more leisurely Shoreline Sightseeing offer half-hour skyline trips.
For a more luxurious ride, three yachts serve up dinner cruises. The *Spirit of Chicago, a 600-passenger ship, provides brunch, lunch and dinner cruises; the *Odyssey can carry 750 people and combines fine cuisine with live entertainment; and the *uglyduck (CQ) ship, which accommodates 600 passengers, has more casual lunch, dinner or midnight cruises — some for as little as $15.
Also, several ships are visiting Navy Pier this summer, including the W.G. Jackson (June 25-26) and the tall ship Pride of Baltimore (July 28-Aug. 4).
The *Chicago Children’s Museum is located right at the entrance. The museum, which is a great deal of fun for parents, too, hosts a Dinosaur Expedition starting June 23. Kids can learn how to dig for bones and pretend they are genuine paleontologists. Meanwhile, the Dr. Seuss exhibit continues through August.
Once the kids have thoroughly explored the museum, it’s on to the *IMAX Theater at Navy Pier (across the pavilion), where you put on a visor to simulate three-dimensional images from the huge flat IMAX screen.
From June 27 to Sept. 5 (excluding July 25), Navy Pier Follies run every Sunday at 3 p.m. on the Skyline Stage. The one-hour show features jugglers, magicians, comedy and the Navy Pier Players.
Weather permitting, get a lift on the 150-foot Ferris wheel (adults, $3.50; kids under 12 and seniors, $3; kids under 2, free). Hours are 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Big events
Festival Hall, midway down the pier, hosts several cultural events, including Art 1999 Chicago (May 7-11), featuring contemporary art by more than 2,000 artists from 24 countries, and the American Craft Council Craft Fair (June 4-6).
*Navy Pier’s Skyline Stage, on the west end, is a semi-enclosed venue that affords views of the city’s north and south skylines and presents a variety of live entertainment — from rock to blues to modern dance.
Aside from the natural beauty of the lake and manmade splendor of the skyscrapers, there are always intriguing sights on the pier itself. Pier Walk 1999 includes more than 100 large sculptures along the outdoor promenade.
Fireworks are the main reason people like stretch out their visit to Navy Pier. Why go home when you can have a relaxing dinner and watch pyrotechnics over the skyline? June 2 through Sept. 4, fireworks shows are at 10:15 p.m. each Saturday and 9:30 p.m. on Wednesday. Shows are choreographed to a medley of rock and pop music and is a popular attraction for those on sightseeing boats, too.
Over at the Miller Lite Stage in the pier’s Beer Garden, the night is filled with sounds of alternative rock, oldies, country and blues. Live bands play Fridays through Sundays, weather permitting. There’s “Dancing Under the Stars” on Wednesdays, too.
What’s new in 1999
A new on-site self-parking garage accommodates an additional 700 vehicles. The six-story structure is located next to Festival Hall.
Also new is a musical carousel, decorated with 36 hand-painted animals, next to the Ferris wheel (adults, $2.50; kids under 12 and seniors, $2; kids under 2, free). Hours are 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Spending and saving
Most families head straight to the Navy Pier McDonald’s, a futuristic fast-food emporium located in the food court near the front entrance. It’s an easy option but there’s a lot more here than Big Macs. Everything from fish and chips to filet mignon are served on the mile-long pier. Right at the entrance, *Perchy’s Bar & Grille serves casual food as does the *Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. & Market.
In the food court, choices include tacos and pizza at various fast food stands.
Moving farther along into the family pavilion, *Joe’s Be-Bop Caf9 & Jazz Emporium specializes in Southern barbecue and live music. *Wave Runner Bar and Grill serves sandwiches and burgers. *Charlie’s Ale House is a relaxed pub. And *Riva and Riva Caf9 — in the middle of the pier — serve fine cuisine and sandwiches, respectively.
Don’t fill up on lunch, for snacks will beckon. You can’t go two feet down Navy Pier without being tempted by funnel cakes, hot dogs and frozen lemonades. Bring lots of cash to satisfy sudden cravings.
Shopping is the all-American entertainment, and the pier has all manner of shops from Ethnic Accents, specializing in Guatemalan and Mexican fashions, to La Havanita, selling hand-rolled cigars.
Free-admission festivals abound, especially on special occasions and holidays such as Armed Forces Day (May 16), Memorial Day weekend (May 28-31, including special fireworks shows at 10:15 p.m. on Saturday and 9:30 p.m. Sunday and Monday); Father’s Day (June 20); and the Fourth of July bands (with a band and fireworks at 9:30 p.m.).
If you plan to stay the night, there are many hotels within walking distance. Try Days Inn Chicago, Doubletree Guest Suites, Holiday Inn Chicago City Centre Hotel & Sports Center, Marriott Hotel, Motel 6 or Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers. Ask about weekend rates.
Hidden treasures
It doesn’t cost anything to walk the pier from end to end, yet the view from the eastern tip of the Navy Pier can rival anything you’ll see by boat. On a clear day you will be able to see Indiana to the south and Evanston to the north. On a clear, clear day you might spy (or think you spy) Indiana. Here’s a great spot for video cameras and still photography. Plus, the mile-long walk is good for you — as long as you don’t fill up on funnel cakes along the way.
Don’t forget to view the lovely Crystal Garden, at the northern end of the family pavilion. The glass-enclosed oasis is brightened with palm trees and other exotic plants, plus arcing water fountains that are fascinating to watch.
Special accommodations
Bicycles, in-line skates, wagons and strollers can be rented at the Bike Chicago stand, located near the gate. Rentals for bikes and skates are $8 an hour or $30 for the day. Quadracyles (four-wheeled bicycles) are $20-$25 per hour. Wagons and strollers are $6 per hour or $15 per day. Renters need a credit card to secure return of the equipment. Call 312-755-0488 for details.
Navy Pier is completely accessible. Wheelchairs, information booths, designated parking, TDD telephones and other services are available for visitors with disabilities.
Getting there
Take public transportation. On some days — especially during special events — the on-site lot fills up. Trolleys can take you to nearby lots, but sometimes those lots fill up, too. The Chicago Transit Authority goes to the front gate via buses 29-State, 65-Grand, 56-Milwaukee and 66-Chicago. On weekday rush hours, 120-North Western/Wacker Express and 121-Union/Wacker Express stop there, too. The Red Line subway trains connect to the 65 bus.
Metra is an option, too. The CTA provides shuttle service from the Madison Street Metra station.
Free trolley service is available between Navy Pier and State Street. Look for the “Navy Pier Trolley Stop” signs on Grand Avenue and Illinois Street. Service is every 20 minutes until 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until midnight Friday and 11 p.m. Saturday.
And, of course, you can reach Navy Pier by boat. In the summer, *Shoreline Sightseeing Cruises operates water taxis between the pier and *Shedd Aquarium and along the Chicago River with boarding at the Sears Tower.
If you don’t mind driving, and perhaps paying $15 or so to park, take I-90/94 to Ohio Street and follow the signs. In the city from the south, take Lake Shore Drive to Illinois Street; from the north, take Lake Shore Drive to Grand Avenue.
Hazards to avoid
Spent all you cash? Cash Station machines are posted near the entrance. That should give you enough for train or cab fare. The pier’s parking garage takes credit cards, but all others take cash only.
If you leave during rush hour (anywhere from 3-6:30 p.m.), don’t expect to get anywhere in a hurry. However, if you want to stay for fireworks, remember that the trolleys stop running at 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until midnight Friday and 11 p.m. Saturday. Plan accordingly.
Come prepared for sudden cool lake shore breezes or showers. Weather can change in an instant.
