A craving for Ethiopian food may not strike as often as one for, say, sausage pizza. But if you’re in the mood for the tangy, spicy cuisine of this East African country, served on a round platter the size of a pizza pan, it’s great to have Ethiopian Diamond around.
Still months away from its third anniversary, this Edgewater restaurant joins the handful of Ethiopian spots around Chicago serving a unique cuisine. If the cooking has been slow to catch on with non-Ethiopian diners, it may be because the food and how it’s eaten are a little unusual for American tastes.
It all starts with the bread, injera. Pancakelike, although with a spongy texture, the dough is made from a fermented wheat that tastes like sourdough bread. It is an acquired taste, but once you develop it, trust me, it is quite appealing. The bread is served at room temperature in a large round meant for sharing at the table. It forms the base for the various stews and purees on the menu. Flavorful meat and vegetable juices soak into the injera, making it irresistible to tear off and eat as the meal progresses.
The bread also takes the place of a knife and fork. Smaller injera rounds, folded napkinlike into triangles, come to the table with instructions (if you look confused) from the waiter: Tear it into pieces and pick up portions of the entrees from the main platter. Yes, it’s all finger food here, and expect your hands to be somewhat messy by the end of the meal.
Start with an appetizer such as the crispy Indian-style sambusas, which are fried pastries filled with spiced lentils, vegetables or shrimp ($2.50 to $3.25). Salads also are nice starters and include the yemiser azifa ($5.50), a lively mix of lentils, onions, peppers, ginger, garlic and lemon.
But the main courses are the most fun. Meats-a choice of lamb, beef or chicken-or shrimp or fish are cooked until meltingly tender in a variety of stews. The watt stews ($7.25 to $8.50), made from a sauce of pureed chili peppers, garlic, ginger and spices, add plenty of fire to the meal and a warning red color to the plate. Alitcha stews ($7.25 to $8.50) are milder, served with a whole hard-cooked egg. Both dishes are a memorable combination of heat, spice and sourness that you’ll develop a craving for later.
Vegetarian plates also are a popular choice, with similar sauce preparations featuring pureed red or yellow lentils ($6.95), tender chopped cabbage and carrots ($6.25) and tangy chopped collard greens or spinach ($6.75), all providing maximum flavor if you want meat-free options. Everything tastes fresh and is cooked just long enough not to dampen the taste or texture of the ingredients.
Ethiopian Diamond is no hole in the wall. The dining room seats more than 170 people and is clean and simply decorated with colorful folk art paintings of African city and country life. Service is prompt and very friendly.
Soft drinks ($1), Ethiopian beer ($2.75), honey wine ($4) and African wines ($4) are available to slake your thirst when things get too spicy.
Desserts range from a bowl of mixed fresh fruit in season topped with fruit sauce and whipped cream ($3.25) to dates baked with a sesame seed topping ($2.75) and pastry shells stuffed with cardamom-scented nuts ($2.75). Don’t count on having room for much past the main meal, though, as this is hearty fare and the injera has a sneaky way of filling you up.
Your waistline will expand only marginally, but your culinary horizons immeasurably if you give Ethiopian food a try. Luckily, the Diamond is a great place to experience it all.
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Ethiopian Diamond Restaurant and Lounge
(3 forks)
6120 N. Broadway
773-338-6100
Hours: Noon-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; noon-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
