Once upon a time, the food served at spas was virtually invisible. Nearly colorless and virtually flavorless, it represented an effort to minimize fats, calories, sodium and protein and to curb clients’ appetites by removing sensory stimulation. “No pain, no gain” became “no pain, no loss.” Call it the “bore you healthy” diet.
In recent decades, however, at a growing number of spas, food is neither sparsely portioned nor bland. Eating comfortable portions of nutritionally wholesome fare and countering calories with exercise is seen as a viable long-term approach to wellness.
In the fore among spas that flaunt their fare are the Golden Door in Escondido, Calif., and its sister establishment, Rancho La Puerta in Tecate, Mexico.
From the “Rancho La Puerta Cookbook” comes a useful low-fat dip with seven variations to show its versatility. Chef Bill Wavrin says, “Some of our clients come back every year talking about the latest fad diet. But those are short-term fixes. Our food is healthy, well-balanced and interesting. It represents a healthy way to live.”
Michel Stroot of the Golden Door developed a fruit “club sandwich,” healthy twice-baked potatoes and turkey patties on garlic-rosemary buns for a menu that makes spouses not eating at the spa feel deprived. The recipe I’ve selected, lobster and shrimp salad with lime-ginger dressing, is a luxury dish, a perfect choice to celebrate achieving a dietary goal. Some ingredients in this recipe will be found in Asian groceries or specialty markets.
TOFU MAYONNAISE SPREAD
This low-fat spread or dip can be varied endlessly by adding an ingredient or two. Dip with vegetables or baked tortilla chips. There’s no cholesterol. Always use the freshest tofu possible.
1/2 cup silken tofu
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a blender or food processor, combine the tofu, lemon juice, oil, garlic and cayenne and process until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a lidded container and refrigerate until ready to use or for up to six days.
Variations:
Green goddess pepper spread: Add 1/4 cup chopped green onion, 1/4 cup chopped fresh spinach leaves and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano. Increase pepper to 1 teaspoon.
Aioli: Increase garlic to 2 minced cloves.
Mexican spread: Add 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro and 1/2 teaspoon minced serrano chile.
Sun-dried tomato spread: Add 1/2 cup chopped hydrated tomatoes and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil.
Herb spread: Add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley.
Chinese spread: Substitute Asian sesame oil for the olive oil and add 1 tablespoon tamari soy sauce and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger.
Caper-mustard spread: Add 2 tablespoons drained capers and 1 teaspoon coarse-grained mustard.
Per 2 tablespoons: 31 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 g protein, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 g fiber, 2 mg sodium.
— From “The Rancho La Puerta Cookbook” (Broadway Books), by Bill Wavrin
LOBSTER AND SHRIMP SALAD WITH LIME-GINGER DRESSING
Four servings
3 ounces mung bean Asian noodles or vermicelli
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, including green tops (2 ounces)
1/2 red bell pepper, julienned (2 ounces)
1 leek, white part only, julienned (3 ounces)
8 slender stalks asparagus, trimmed (3 ounces)
4 to 8 large romaine or butter lettuce leaves
1 cup sliced Bibb or leaf lettuce
12 ounces cooked lobster meat
4 large cooked shrimp
(6 ounces before peeling and cooking)
1 papaya, cut into 4 fans or 16 slices, optional garnish
1/3 cup lime-ginger dressing (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
1 lime, cut into 4 wedges
4 sprigs fresh cilantro
1. Drop the noodles into a saucepan of boiling water. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and let the noodles stand in the water for 15 minutes, until softened.
2. Drain the noodles and rinse under cool running water. Shake off excess water and place the noodles in a small bowl. Add the rice vinegar and scallions. Toss and set aside.
3. In a steamer basket over boiling water, steam the pepper, leek and asparagus until fork tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold running water and set aside.
4. Line four plates with the lettuce pieces and cover the base of each leaf with sliced lettuce. Top with the noodles and arrange the steamed vegetables around the noodles. Arrange a quarter of the lobster meat on top of each serving of noodles and lay a shrimp next to the lobster. Arrange optional papaya on the side of each plate. Drizzle with dressing and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Garnish each plate with a lime wedge and cilantro sprig.
Per serving (not including dressing): 322 calories, 8 g total fat, 144 mg cholesterol, 31 g protein, 31 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 668 mg sodium.
LIME-GINGER DRESSING
Makes about one-third cup
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon fructose
Dash hot chili sauce
1/4 teaspoon Chinese roasted sesame oil, optional
1/2 teaspoon chopped Japanese pickled ginger
1. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, mirin, rice vinegar, fructose, chili sauce and optional sesame oil. Whisk vigorously until combined. Stir in pickled ginger and pour over salad as directed.
Per tablespoon: 8 calories, 0 g total fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 g protein, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 g fiber, 1 mg sodium.
— From “The Golden Door Cookbook” (Broadway Books), by Michel Stroot
