The village of Cambridge epitomizes the charm of pint-sized, Midwestern communities: ice cream socials, juicy pig roasts, boats of antique finds, a trusty Ben Franklin and the staple, downtown “Main Street.”
Pottery also figures into the history of this town, which was founded by sturdy Scandinavians and Scots in 1847; specifically salt-glazed pottery — a method by which a shiny, glazed surface is created by tossing rock salt into the kiln during the firing stage.
The art was introduced to the area in 1975 when Jim and Tina Rowe founded Rowe Pottery Works in downtown Cambridge, which swiftly became one of the largest salt-glazed pottery manufacturers in the U.S. The company is best known for its weathered and antiqued blue and gray floral designs.
Never mind that Cambridge had several reader poll credits to its name, including “prettiest small town in Dane County.” It was getting a grand deal on one of these pots and the painless, two-hour drive from Chicago that drew my boyfriend and me into Wisconsin’s sprawling farmland north of Janesville.
We uncovered a lot more about this village of 1,000 during our stay at Whispering Pines Bed & Breakfast, the colonial-style home once owned by Sears Roebuck executive Percy G. Saunders.
With no shortage of fine B&Bs in Cambridge, it was owner Patricia New’s family background that reeled us in: While I was talking to her on the phone, she mentioned that she came from a family of 13, all born and raised in town. I could already hear the stories being told over breakfast — tidbits that would only make our trip more pleasurable.
The antique-adorned house, set back among a family of pine trees, has three guest rooms, each a Victorian period piece: cherry spindle beds, French lace curtains, oak woodwork, stained glass and hurricane lamps are impeccably well-maintained and will have you admiring the details for hours.
Cambridge may set the stage for serene country living, but it wasn’t always slow-paced. “Davidson of Harley-Davidson is from here,” New said over breakfast, which one morning included fresh-from-the-oven pecan rolls, a fresh fruit compote, toast with homemade raspberry jam and rich quiche Lorraine. “The bike engine was invented in a garage that was once over there,” she said pointing out the window.
Cambridge’s history is brimming with speed: It’s also the hometown of Ole Evinrude, the inventor of the outboard boat motor who, according to New, got so fed up back in 1909 with having to row across Lake Ripley that he devised a motorized engine to get the job done.
Another townie told us that the Evinrudes and the Davidsons were best buddies. Both families, however, eventually took their specialties elsewhere.
What gets the town fired up nowadays is No. 17 — NASCAR driver Matt Kensith. It seems as if every other house and establishment bears the famous local’s flag.
We decided to break our two days in town into two parts: One day was spent roaming the area’s expansive park and trail system and learning some of the village’s 152-year-old history; the other was devoted to the many artisan shops and scouring the overloaded antique “malls.”
Cambridge has always been big on keeping the history of the village intact, especially architecturally. Thanks to the Cambridge Design District Committee and strict zoning laws, the village’s downtown Main Street looks almost as it did over a century ago. In fact, all of the buildings from the opera house to the wagon factory to the blacksmith shop, although now inhabited by newer businesses, are still faithful to the period in which they were built.
The committee, a group that vows to maintain and preserve Cambridge’s history, consults newer businesses that set up shop downtown on exterior design and color. Even McDonald’s would have a hard time propping up its arches in Cambridge; there’s a law prohibiting fast-food chains from invading the town.
Outdoor recreation is popular in Cambridge, thanks to several nice parks whose trails link up with the 300-acre Cam-Rock park system, which is shared with neighboring Rockdale. In summer the trails appeal to hikers and bikers, and come winter, cross-country skiers rule. There are also areas that are available for tobogganing and snowmobiling.
An ice rink at West Side Park, on Koshkonong Creek at the center of town, is popular with skaters beginning in December. In June, the park hosts the annual Pottery Festival, which attracts 10,000 to 15,000 people for its nationally recognized pottery competition.
Trails are well maintained. Our walk on the Cam-Rock park system trails took us through miles of maple, elm and ash trees, marshes, creeks and picturesque bridges.
Lake Ripley Park and its 600-acre spring-fed namesake lake, though overrun with boaters in the summer, still sports decent fishing, especially walleye. In winter, the lake is popular for ice fishing.
The Cambridge Historic School, a marvelous, red brick building atop a hill within walking distance from downtown, was built in 1906. The structure was recently added to the National Register of Historic Places, and a community group is renovating the school to become a local history museum. Plans also include the school housing a national pottery center complete with extensive pot collections, workshops and an on-site kiln that would make it possible for visitors to engage in hands-on learning.
Tours are available — they were closed the Saturday we were there — and are best made by appointment by calling the Cambridge Historic Foundation at 608-423-3327. Before you leave the grounds, take a minute and walk behind the building for a picture-perfect backdrop of a Wisconsin countryside.
Downtown is Main Street and the spine of Cambridge. The artsy, homey kinds of gift stores range from The Pantry’s bath and body products to Music and Memories’ 1,800 unique music boxes to the new Adams and Haack’s furniture store.
We strayed off the main drag just a bit to find The Cambridge Antique Mall, a 100-year-old church that houses two floors of antiques, including loads of furniture, glassware and vintage jewelry.
Back on Main Street, I found it hard to exit the Village Blacksmith Antiques & Collectibles. This 130-year-old former blacksmith shop is filled with vintage pieces from 1950s chrome ash trays and lighters to Vargas-esque paintings and war memorabilia to exquisite stained glass windows.
At Rowe Pottery Works, we finally did score a hefty jug-like pot at a perfect price in the store’s back area called Pottery Seconds. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder back there: Pieces are sold half off because of slight imperfections in the glaze or the clay. Our work or art cost us just $16.
If you’re especially interested in pottery production, call the store for a tour of the factory down the road, which employs 135 potters from all over the U.S.
The lack of nightlife in Cambridge is refreshing. There are a handful of bars to wander into, and they abound with friendly locals. The Spa Tavern had us drinking gin and tonics for next to nothing and playing the Shake of the Day, a version of Yahtzee. For a buck, you get three chances to roll five of the same number of the day. Winner takes home whatever’s in the pot.
Did we win the pot? Nope, but we did walk away with an even better one.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for two:
Whispering Pines
Bed & Breakfast (2 nights) …. $137
Meals ……………………. $100
Tours and entertainment …….. $30
Gas, tolls ………………… $32
Total ……………………. $299
IF YOU GO
– GETTING THERE
Cambridge is about 130 miles north of Chicago. Take Interstate Highway 90 West to Exit 160 at Edgerton. Then take Wisconsin Highway 73 north to U.S. Highway 12 and go east to Cambridge.
– DINING
We visited these five eateries and watering holes:
Village Bakery (121 W. Main St.) has thick, chewy cookies, but there’s loads more to choose from. Locals love the chicken pot pies and the enormous beef and onion-filled pasties.
Melli Chocolates (150 W. Main St.) is a cozy, Euro-style cafe that has been around since 1940 and is the only place in town for espresso and hand-dipped sweets. The array of delectables includes chocolate-covered caramel apples, hand-pulled candy canes and Wisconsin meadow muffins — rich, nut caramel clusters. .
Cambridge Country Inn & Pub (206 W. Main St.) is a new and spacious diner-style restaurant that is fine for a simple lunch. The extensive menu includes a fit-for-two Greek salad and char-grilled steak.
Cardinal Ridge Supper Club (W9298 Highway 18) is a meat-eaters haven. This old-fashioned restaurant has hearty good food and surprisingly decent red and white wine selections. The menu includes a Friday fish fry for $8.25; or for $9.50, all you can eat Wiener schnitzel, roast duck and chicken livers.
The Spa Tavern (N4264 Park Rd.) is a house-turned-tavern that attracts merchants and farmers as well as area college kids. Expect a hefty crowd if the Green Bay Packers or the University of Wisconsin Badgers football teams are playing.
– LODGING
For a tiny town, there is quite a handsome selection of lodging choices. Here are some of the B&Bs that locals recommended:
Whispering Pines Bed & Breakfast (W9442 Hwy 12; 423-3120) is nestled among towering pines right off the highway. This quaint B&B is close to outdoor activities on Lake Ripley and within minutes of shops in town. Three Victorian-decorated rooms. Full breakfast included, $60-$65. Children not recommended. No pets.
Night Heron Bed & Breakfast (315 E. Water St., Rockdale; 800-786-5669; travelguides.com/inns/full/WI/9693.html) is a restored, century-old inn with an Art Deco interior, located 2 miles from Cambridge off County Road B in the sister village of Rockdale. Three rooms, with access to the hot tub. No pets. $75 during the week; $85 on weekends; $65 per day for three or more days. Rate also includes a full breakfast, wine and a bottle of champagne.
Cambridge House Bed & Breakfast (123 E. Main St.; 888-859-8075; www.cambridgehouse-inn.com) sits in the heart of town. Guests get a wine and cheese welcome, and for breakfast, a favorite is Dotti’s stuffed French toast or oatmeal souffle. Country-themed suites have private bath with whirlpool. $100 rate includes a full breakfast (corporate rates available).
– INFORMATION
A handy and easy-to-use Web resource that has a comprehensive listing of recreational activities, upcoming events, area merchants, restaurants and lodging choices is at www.cambridgewi.com.
Call the Cambridge Area Chamber of Commerce at 608-423-3780 for visitor information or send e-mail inquiries to chamber@smallbytes.net. For information on the latest special events call 608-423-7559.
