The town of Pelican, Alaska, is way out there. I mean way, way out there.
It’s located on the far side of Chichagof Island, up the Lisianski Inlet, accessible only by boat or seaplane. Its 147 residents make their living fishing.
Or, at least, they used to.
These days this little town, built in 1938 to support a large fish cannery, is struggling because last year the processing plant was closed. Residents are seriously concerned about how they are going to earn money, and some are bailing out.
We visitors really weren’t supposed to learn this. We were to enjoy strolling down the picturesque stilted boardwalk, tip a few at the local bars, maybe spend a few dollars in the general store and admire the village’s about-to-be-erected totem pole.
But in doing those things, we met the local people, talked with them and so learned of their plight. But we also shared their joys. Two students were graduating from high school the next evening, and we were invited to stay and celebrate.
Unfortunately, that wasn’t to be as our mini-cruise ship was leaving the next morning, but this chance to experience a real fishing village, without tourist trappings, was just one more dimension of an Alaskan cruise experience I’ll never forget.
Cruising aboard the Safari Quest, a 120-foot motor yacht that carries 22 passengers, is indeed like being on your own ship. We did all of the things that yachtsman do: “Dinked” around (stopped in little bays), “hung on the hook” (anchored overnight in several of those bays) and took dinghy rides to see whales.
From the time we left Juneau until we put in at Sitka seven days later, we never saw another cruise ship (well, we did, but it was an aerial view… more on that later). We never encountered any other tour groups. We didn’t visit any of the famous Alaskan towns. We were on our own to enjoy the gorgeous grandeur that is Alaska.
American Safari Cruises, now entering its fourth season, operates two cruising yachts in Alaska: the Safari Quest and the 105-foot Safari Spirit.
From the time you board until the final stepoff, you feel like the ship is your own. The doors don’t lock, the bar is open, the kayaks are free, and all the day adventures are included… no money or chits are ever exchanged.
The crew of nine — captain, mate/engineer, deck crew member, three stewards, excursion leader/naturalist, chef and chef’s assistant — operate the boat with ease, with every member of the crew trained to handle lines when needed. And although the itinerary is loosely planned, what goes on each day depends largely on whim and weather.
After overnighting on the ship in Juneau, we headed out on a bright Sunday morning in mid-May for the beginning of our exploration of Southeastern Alaska. Rather than travel the length of the Inside Passage, we were to spend the entire week exploring the fascinating coves and crannies in the Alexander Archipelago, between the Gulf of Alaska and the mainland. That day we visited Tracy Arm, where we had our first of many up-close experiences with a glacier.
As we reached the face of the glacier, the ship anchored and the large, hard-bottomed inflatable Zodiac was put over the side. We donned life jackets, piled in and, led by our enthusiastic naturalist, Bob Dippold, headed off to the Sawyer Glaciers. The little boat wove its way among the many chunks of floating ice until we could almost touch the glacier’s front edge (called the “face”). We scooped up a chunk of that ice, which we chipped for drinks that evening.
That evening, while most of us congregated in the lounge for cocktails and lovely hors d’oeuvres, my husband and his brother rigged up fishing poles and began to pursue what would become their favorite nightly activity: Jigging for halibut, sole or whatever else grabbed the hook.
(They had the foresight to purchase fishing licenses in Juneau.) These two also soon established that their favorite place to spend the day was up on the top deck…where when they weren’t watching for whales they were catching naps in the lounge chairs.
The next day was spent cruising Stephens Passage and doing lots of wildlife viewing. One of our group thought up the idea of posting a chart in the lounge to document all of our wildlife sightings. The list, including some creative crayon art, became a focal point of our group. Our first sightings were of brown bears, mountain goats, harbor seals and humpback whales. Bald eagles, orcas, steller’s sea lions and porpoises soon dominated the numbers.
Our adventures were many:
We stopped in the Brothers Islands, where we first encountered the Pacific oyster catcher, one of the unique birds of the region, and discovered sea urchins in the tide pools. Because it was so early in the year, we were among the first beachcombers, and I snagged a lovely piece of driftwood that I toted all the way home to Michigan.
We visited the village of Kake on Kupreanof Island, where we were introduced to the native culture of the Tlingits. Ruth Demmert, a local tribal leader, sang songs, gave us a tour and explained the symbolism of the town’s totem pole (supposedly the world’s tallest) and its ritual “potlatch” gatherings. We poked through a salmon hatchery and also a packing plant.
At Baranof Warm Springs, one of the prettiest little bays we would see, crowned with a misty waterfall, we tied up at the dock next to two sailboats. (The captain later repositioned our boat so as not to block the waterfall view of one of our neighbor vessels. What cruise ship would ever do that?)
The plan was to hike up to the springs for a dip, however snow on the trail was still deep. But we decided to be fearless and try to get there anyway. It was a stalwart dozen of us that slogged out way up that muddy, drifted trail, and we were rewarded with a memorable soaking in the springs. (Memorable, too, was getting dressed and undressed in the rain.)
Yes, it did rain all of that day, but the rain and fog gave that tiny harbor a mystical look that I’ll long remember. And, as it turned out, that was the only inclement weather we encountered; most of our days were brilliantly sunny, if a bit chilly. It was exceptional weather.
We stopped in for a look at Pybus Point Lodge, a fishing and hunting camp on Admiralty Island, where we were rewarded with views of huge sunflower starfish under the dock in just a couple of feet of crystal clear water. It struck me as a guy kind of place.
We also had lunch at the Bear Track Inn in Gustavus, a majestic log cabin with much nicer digs. More a gal kind of place. It was neat to get a first-hand look at these lodges that we keep reading about in the sporting magazines.
We visited the tiny towns of Elfin Cove and Pelican, built on boardwalks, where we dreamed of spending a summer in one of the tiny cottages on the edge of nowhere, overlooking the picturesque harbors, catching up on reading Patricia Cornwell.
We kayaked up a small stream into the Marble Grotto. (Kayaking was a favorite activity, and nearly everyone participated.)
We shot pool and downed beers in the Pelican Bar & Grill, and enjoyed watching one of our shipmates, Susan Pearce, who owns a travel agency in San Antonio, tend bar for the evening after losing a bet.
Our final and most spectacular adventure was a flight over Glacier Bay.
While other ships spend an entire day sailing in and out, we hopped into sturdy little planes and zipped over the mountains and then dipped down to the face of the glaciers. As we flew out, we passed over the Veendam, carrying around 1,700 passengers. We were very smug about being only 17.
The food on board, prepared by chef Gary Trupiano, was superb. Most memorable was the dungeness crab feast when we all outdid ourselves and piled high the shells in the middle of our table. Meals were family style and wines (all quite good) were included. In fact, all liquor was included…from Bloody Marys for the early morning brave, to nightcaps of Glenlivet or Courvoisier.
Service was all you could ask for. Head steward Jenny Bauska must be commended for the many little touches she arranged, from chocolates on the beds each night to soap dishes (which she discovered missing the first day). Anything a passenger asked for was provided, if at all possible.
The only drawbacks we encountered seemed largely due to this being the first cruise of the season: Some of the lower level cabins were having trouble getting hot water, and one smelled like diesel fuel. The engineer spent much of the week working to resolve these problems. Also, know that these lower level cabins are markedly less luxurious than the four new cabins on the upper level and they have only portholes, as opposed to large windows. In all cabins, storage space is very limited.
Capt. Ken Robinson proved himself an able skipper, from the tricky docking in Pelican to the nifty slide through the two tiny islands during our approach to Sitka. He deviated from course whenever we spotted whales or other interesting wildlife. He also maneuvered the Quest for what has become her signature feat: He nosed the bow right up into a waterfall, so the water splashed on the front deck.
Because we shared the small ship’s space together, our group of 17 quickly became friends. On the last evening, my husband was asked to carry on a ship’s tradition and read “The Cremation of Sam McGee,” the famous poem by that bard of Alaska, Robert Service. It was a misty-eyed moment as he intoned those phrases that so many of us had heard over the years, but, somehow, in this place they had more meaning…and the final outcome more punch.
As we disembarked in Sitka, we found ourselves reluctant to turn over our ship to another group of passengers. In such a short time, it had become our own. Our expedition leaders, loopy Bob and nifty Lee Burrows, were fast friends as well. They had shared with us their love and the lore of Alaska, and we were charged with carrying it forth.
IF YOU GO
– THE CRUISE
Alaska Yacht Safaris operates two cruising yachts in Alaska: the 120-foot Safari Quest (22 passengers) and the 105-foot Safari Spirit (12 passengers). The Safari Quest itinerary goes between Juneau and Sitka and includes flight-seeing over Glacier Bay. It is priced from $4,695 to $6,595 per person for eight nights, including port taxes. The Safari Spirit travels between Prince Rupert, British Columbia, and Juneau, and includes a scenic flight over the Misty Fjords. Prices range from $5,295 to $7,395 for eight nights. Air fare is extra. The ships may be chartered. Trips run from mid-April through the end of September. The company also offers 10-night cruises between Vancouver and Juneau in the spring and fall.
– ATTIRE
While the food, wine and experience are luxury all the way, this trip is definitely casual. Leave the sportcoats and ties at home. Plan to layer, and don’t overpack as storage is quite limited. Bring silk or polypropylene underwear, fleece vests, turtlenecks and T-shirts. Be optimistic and throw in some shorts. Pack in duffel bags. Also be sure to have a warm hat, gloves and hiking boots or sturdy sneakers. The ship provides rain slickers and rubber boots.
– A TYPICAL DAY
Continental breakfast in the main salon from 6:30-9:30 a.m.; full breakfast served around 8 a.m.; lunch at noon; cocktails and appetizers at 6 p.m.; and dinner at 7 p.m. Turn in early, usually by 9:30.
– DON’T FORGET . . .
Binoculars are essential and best brought with you. One pair per person stops a lot of arguments. Ladies, bring a hair dryer. Those wishing to fish from the ship should purchase a license in either Juneau or Sitka. The ship provides fishing gear.
– ACCESSIBILITY
The ships are not wheelchair-accessible; however, someone using a cane could maneuver aboard.
– TIPS
The only money you will spend onboard during your week is crew tips on the last day. The recommended amount is 10 percent of your cruise fare. (The amount is divided among the crew.)
– INFORMATION
American Safari Cruises, 19101-36th Ave. W., Suite 201, Lynnwood, WA 94036; phone toll-free 888-862-8881; e-mail administration@amsafari.com; www.amsafari.com.
