The words “menswear” and “boring” don’t have to be matched pairs. For spring, men’s fashion takes its lead from women’s ready-to-wear, demonstrating that even the conservative dresser can experiment with dazzling color, futuristic fabrics, bold patterns and even tailoring.
“We’re calling this season `Dawn,’ ” says Jarlath Mellett, executive vice president and design director for Brooks Brothers, the nearly 200-year-old clothing line which has revamped its image from stodgy and conservative to something more fashion-forward. “We see this as a time of redefining how men dress.”
And if you’re used to buying that proverbial three-piece suit and crisp white button-down shirt, you may be in for a surprise. This is not a season for no-brainer shopping for those traditional staples. Everything has been re-evaluated, reworked and refined.
But that doesn’t mean you can look like a mess, either. This is one of the sharpest seasons menswear has seen in a while.
“Casual Fridays have become too casual,” says Cindy Capobianco, a spokeswoman for Banana Republic. “That white shirt with chinos look is too boring. And no one wants to look like a slob anymore. Men still want to look polished and put together, but they want to express their individuality, too.”
Capobianco sees spring as a time of true alternatives, from stretch wool pants to button-down shirts in colors like watermelon and guava. For those daring enough to try something new, here are a few elements of spring style. Are you man enough to change?
Cropped pants: If you think capris are for women only, think again. At Banana Republic, they’re called weekend pants. Marshall Field’s refers to them as bermudas, board shorts or cropped trousers.
“There’s a blurred line between pants and shorts,” says JoAnn Young, executive fashion producer for Marshall Field’s. Whether it’s rooted in a sporty sensibility or a penchant for retro surf culture, spring 2000’s version tends to be narrower and straighter than last year’s boxy fits. Still, that doesn’t mean you can wear them to work, says Dan McCampbell, vice president and men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Short pants and a blazer are still too extreme a look for the office,” he says, laughing.
Bold color: Be prepared to greet the first spring of the millennium in an ocean of deep-sea blues, foam and forest greens and fruity oranges. Even the more conservative–and monochromatic–haberdashers will be showcasing their button-downs and crewneck sweaters in pale to hot pinks, purples and turquoise. “Bold, playful, confident colors like jungle green and red are what spring is about,” says Marshall Field’s Young. If you’re used to stepping into the men’s department and yawning, you’ll be in for a nice surprise.
Tech Fabrics: Women have long known that a little Lycra goes a long way toward getting pants to fit perfectly. Now men can reap the same benefits.
“We have to educate our male customers about how to wear a stretch fabric,” says Banana Republic’s Capobianco. “It’s all about using fabrics that allow you to move comfortably throughout your day.”
For spring, these take the shape of stretch wool pants, stretch poplin shirts, nylon button-down shirts, even lightweight jackets and driving coats that don’t wrinkle. They are great for travel and they mold right to your body. Forget about all those futuristic finishes that you saw on utility wear last year. This season’s technical fabrics make you look not boxy but sleek in silhouette, as in BCBG’s finished and fitted button-downs or Donna Karan’s ultra-lightweight waxy cottons that feel like a overnight-express mailer. Many of the fabrics may even seem somewhat familiar in feel because they are refangled natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, burlap, straw and raffia. Marshall Field’s calls this trend “modern organic.”
Prints: Chalk this one up to a sensibility for vintage patterning. Tropical florals, Op Art-like patterns, polka dots and gingham are all making a comeback. There’s nothing obnoxious about these prints, though. Banish those memories of frat parties where Hawaiian prints and madras shorts were the uniform. Floral prints can be as fresh as a daisy on a knit top (Sandy Dalal) or as subtle as a petal on a narrow tie. Some of the geometric prints (Pelle Pelle) are reminiscent of ’50s Havana. Many of the printed camp shirts hark back to ’60s California beach culture (Cynthia Rowley). Just don’t wear a head-to-toe clash of patterns. Patterning for spring is a matter of accenting.
Leather: New technology is turning leather into a skin of all seasons. The new hides are so lightweight and light in color, they work in any spring wardrobe. From Donna Karan’s tan and perforated leathers to Cynthia Rowley’s snug white leather jeans, leather looks sleek, modern and fresh this season. Banana Republic offers leather and suede in the form of race-car jackets and even trench coats.
Deconstructed suits: When a store like Brooks Brothers starts selling suits as separates, you know the traditional three-piece has seen better days. Taking the lead from stores such as Banana Republic, many men’s stores are now offering you the option to buy your pants and jackets separately.
“It’s consumer driven,” says Brooks Brothers’ Mellett. “Men are working out more and have bigger chests, narrower waists and want a custom fit. We found that separates require less alterations, too.”
In addition, the new suit is narrower and more tapered to meet the more streamlined physiques of men. Pants are flat-front, not pleated and boxy. Blazers are three-button with skinnier lapels and narrower waists.
“It’s a more relaxed suit,” says Mellett. “The weave isn’t flat, either. We’re using tropical wools, so the fabrics are lighter. Some of the suits are even half-lined.”
Designers such as Donna Karan even showed unlined suits in crinkly tech fabrics and mandarin collars and unstructured shoulders. Suit colors also have shifted from navy to indigo, from gray to more khakis, camels, browns and even olives and army greens. Mellett suggests pairing an olive suit with an orange button-down or knit shirt for an update.
High-octane: Every season has its muse and Steve McQueen seems to be on the collective brain this spring. The motocross jacket he made famous is in everyone’s collection from Donna Karan, who emulated the famed Ducati motorcycle jacket, to Brooks Brothers. Rounded-collar zip jackets, whether in leather, waxed cotton or canvas, look great with a crewneck or turtleneck and flat-front trousers.
Knit one: No, pashmina still hasn’t hit the men’s market, but cashmere is here to stay. Luxury is high on everyone’s list, and lighter weaves and hues have made cashmere a new classic for men. This spring, cashmere sweaters take the form of earth-toned baseball jerseys by Marc Jacobs and whimsically patterned and vividly colored crewnecks by Gene Meyer. Knitwear is strong all around, from zip-front sweaters with little stand-up collars to be worn to the office with slacks, to pleated, reversible microfiber tops that can be layered or worn over or under a button-down for a relaxed spring look.
Denim: Embellished denim has been a huge trend for women. Embroidered jeans with fancy cuffs for men may be hard to come by (save for Kenneth Cole), but you will find jeans that are frayed and faded and made to look individually worn. Young of Marshall Field’s attributes this to a growing trend toward softly aged, vintage threads such as ’70s seersucker suits, antique jeans (Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs, Polo) and chalky, weathered denim. “Distressed denim is a form of embellishment men can wear,” she explains.
Even companies that aren’t known for their jeanswear are incorporating a denim influence in their ready-to-wear. Banana Republic offers cropped jeans, while Brooks Brothers is turning out suits in a denim-like indigo shade instead of the usual navy blue.
Goodbye buttons: Drawstrings, zips, Velcro, magnets and luggage locks are the closures of the future. “We call this the millennium effect,” says Young of Marshall Field’s. “It helps to contribute to a clean line.” Often these closures are hidden details in the seam of pants or in the pockets of a camp shirt. Other times, they’re part of the construction, such as laser-cut edges, slashed necklines, padded motocross elbows or knee pads. “It’s user-friendly, very functional and looks very sharp and modern,” says Young. “It gives the clothes a whole new feel.”
