Why should we learn to love the cabbage family? Let me count the reasons. Cabbages have fiber and many vitamins, especially vitamin C, but few calories. They are available year-round at low to moderate prices, they come with an broad international recipe repertory, and they are amazingly versatile. Serve cabbages raw or marinated. Cook them whole, stuffed, cut into wedges or shredded, by boiling, steaming or braising or by deep- or stir-frying.
Meet the Cabbages: head or common cabbage (green or red), savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Chinese or napa cabbage, bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, collards, kale, Swiss chard. There are more, but you get the point. It’s a very extended family.
It would take a series of columns or a book to do justice to the Cabbages. Instead, I’ve compiled a small sampler of recipes, each using a different member of the family. These recipes come from Jimmy Bannos, chef-owner of the Heaven on Seven restaurants; Jacqueline Mason of the Sydney International Wine Competition; and my kitchen.
A kitchen tip: When boiling or steaming members of the cabbage family, add a bay leaf or two to the liquid to avoid the unpleasant odor that may be created in cooking.
RECIPES
JIMMY BANNOS’ SMOTHERED CABBAGE
Six to eight servings
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onions
1 1/2 cups chopped tasso (spicy cured ham) or kielbasa
1 cup chopped pickled pork or smoked ham butt
2 tablespoons roasted garlic
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning
2 pounds green cabbage, trimmed, quartered, cored and sliced thin
Salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Coat the bottom of a heavy pot with oil. Add onions and cook at medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until onions begin to caramelize. Add tasso, pickled pork, garlic and Creole seasoning. Saute for a minute.
2. Add cabbage and stir briefly. Add salt, pepper, pepper flakes and 3 cups of water. Bring water to a simmer, cover the pan and cook over low heat for 45 minutes, or until the cabbage is tender. Uncover and stir in butter before serving.
ASIAN COLESLAW WITH SHREDDED CHICKEN AND CHILI MAYONNAISE
Three or four servings
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 boneless, skinless chicken breast piece
1 cup oil, peanut preferred, for frying
4 cups coarsely shredded napa cabbage
1/2 bunch Chinese broccoli, coarsely shredded to yield 3 cups
3 1/2 ounces wonton wrappers, finely shredded
1 medium carrot, peeled and sliced into thin coins to yield 3/4 cup
1 piece of ginger, 1 ounce, peeled and finely sliced into discs to yield 1/4 cup
2 cloves garlic, peeled, halved lengthwise, green sprout removed and finely sliced crosswise to yield 1 1/2 tablespoons
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 cup coarsely chopped coriander leaves, plus whole leaves for garnish
1 1/2 cups chili mayonnaise (recipe follows)
1. Bring 1 quart water to a boil in a saucepan. Add soy sauce and chicken breast. Adjust heat to a simmer and poach breast until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Drain. When breast is cool enough to handle, shred meat by hand.
2. Heat oil in a wok. Fry separately until crisp, then drain and place on paper towels the cabbage (in 2 batches), broccoli (in 2 batches), wontons, carrot, ginger and garlic (cook carrots 2 minutes, add ginger, cook 1 minute, add garlic and cook until golden). Combine in a bowl and season to taste with salt and sugar.
3. Add shredded chicken to fried ingredients, toss and portion onto plates. Garnish with coriander and serve with chili mayonnaise on the side.
Note: To prepare chili mayonnaise, add the following to 14 teaspoon chili oil; 1 teaspoon each minced ginger, minced garlic and soy sauce; 2 teaspoons rice vinegar. Stir well.
SHREDDED BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN CREAM
Six to eight servings
2 cartons (10 ounces each) Brussels sprouts
4 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
Freshly ground white pepper
1/3 cup whipping cream
1. Rinse Brussels sprouts. Cut off and discard bottoms. Coarsely shred in a food processor or slice about 1/8-inch thick.
2. Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Add shredded Brussels sprouts and toss well. Cook, stirring frequently, until the Brussels sprouts are wilted and just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. (Cook to the minimum time if you want to prepare this dish ahead and reheat.)
3. Season with salt, nutmeg and pepper to taste. Add the cream, stir well and cook until cream is bubbling, about 2 minutes.
