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Q–We are going to install two telescoping jack posts in our basement to raise the sagging floor in our kitchen.

There is a concrete floor in the basement, but we have been told that each post needs a deeper concrete footing to act as a solid foundation under the base of the post.

Do you think we can rest the posts on the existing concrete floor, or do we need to somehow add to the existing concrete?

A–Most concrete basement floors are only 4 inches thick, and this is really not thick enough to properly support an adjustable jack post.

Unless the concrete is at least 6 inches thick you should put down an extra foundation by chopping a hole in the floor and digging down until the hole is 12 inches deep (below the surface of the existing concrete slab).

Then fill this hole with concrete up to the level of the existing floor and allow this to cure for several days before setting the jack posts on top.

Q–I have a brass lamp that is over 50 years old. It has become dull and dirty.

Can you suggest any method for cleaning or polishing this brass lamp?

A–If it is not solid brass, no brass polish will help. The easiest way to determine if it is brass is to scratch on the bottom with an ice pick or knife.

If a metallic or gray color shows through you will know it is not solid brass–it is probably just brass plated.

If it is solid brass, on the other hand, it may have had a clear lacquer coating on it and this would explain why the brass polish didn’t work.

The lacquer must be stripped off first (using acetone or lacquer thinner), after which you can use the polish.

After cleaning and polishing, apply a fresh coat of clear lacquer, otherwise it will tarnish.

Q–The cedar shingles on the outside of my house have split in several places, so I would like to replace them.

I have had no trouble removing the nails along the bottom of each shingle, but I still can’t pull the shingles out because there are nails along the top of each shingle that also go through the bottom of the shingle above it.

How do I get these upper nails out without damaging the shingle above, and without ripping off a whole row of shingles above the damaged one?

A–Use a hacksaw blade without a handle. Slide the end of the blade up under the good shingle that is directly above the one that you want to remove, then work it up and down to cut off the nails from below.

To avoid cutting your hand with the hacksaw blade you can wrap the end of the blade with several layers of duct tape, or you can use one of the special hacksaw blade holders that enable you to lay the blade almost flat against the surface while working.

After these nails are cut off, you will be able to slide out the damaged shingle, then tap a new shingle up in its place.

Q–My water pipes make pounding or hammering noise when we turn on the cold water. What can be causing this?

A–The most likely cause is a condition known as “water hammer.” This is due to water being brought to a sudden stop, building up pressure and then causing it to slam against the walls of the pipe as it goes around elbows and against other fittings when you turn the water on or off.

It can usually be corrected by installing anti-hammer devices in several places throughout the system.