Those who love to dine out, whether at hot spots or down-home eateries, can recount a list of favorite dishes savored during their culinary jaunts. The garlic catfish at Thai Twee in Hyde Park should be on such a list. So should this restaurant’s version of a coconut pudding called kanom tuy.
These two dishes are among the highlights at this simple restaurant where tapestries and travel posters vie for wall space, plants add their welcoming touch and plastic covers the tables. Diners can be excused for peering toward the kitchen and expecting a grandmother to emerge with a steaming pot of tom yum soup.
And much the way a grandmother might coddle family members gathered in her kitchen, Thai Twee’s menu notes: “Please let us know how you like your meals cooked. We will alter dish to fit your taste.”
Owner Janya Wonghansa, who has been running Thai Twee for six years, has put together a substantial and varied menu.
There are the usual appetizers, with satay (chicken or pork, $5.25), spring rolls ($3.25), crab rangoon ($3.99) and the shrimp dumpling called shu mai ($3.75) among more than a dozen options.
One day’s chill prompted us to order a favorite, tom yum. It was a hit, with plump shrimp and straw mushrooms floating in the tangy, lemon-grass-perfumed broth ($4 and $7, for the large). Versions with vegetables, chicken or tofu also are available. Maybe it was the blustery weather, but we wanted the temperature of the soup cranked up a notch.
The beef salad, nua num tok ($5.75), is standard Thai restaurant fare, mixing temperatures, colors, flavors and textures. At Thai Twee, the requisite slices of hot, freshly char-cooked beef are tossed with cool green onion slices, white onion slices, chilies and lime juice to make an average rendition. Hmmm, should we have tried that grilled eggplant delight ($6) with its sweet-sour chili sauce?
Another Thai restaurant regular, pad thai, showed up with all its bean sprouts, egg and peanuts in place ($5.75), but it was a shade too sweet for our taste. The srida long song — basically steamed broccoli topped with cubes of crisp-fried tofu and a slightly sweetened peanut sauce ($6) — was far more interesting.
Thai Twee shines in the curry department (red, green and yellow are represented), and with its fine array of dishes starring catfish, squid, delicate butterfish, shrimp and red snapper.
The green curry was very good, with the right balance of fragrant herbs, chilies and coconut milk paired with beef (or chicken or tofu or vegetables; $6).
And that catfish dish worth returning for? It won kudos for its piping hot, crispy chunks of fish resting over bright green broccoli and bathed in a fragrant garlic sauce ($7). Now if only there had been room to handle an order of butterfish with fresh ginger and mushroom sauce ($8). Few dishes come with rice, but extra steamed rice can be ordered (small, 50 cents; large $1).
Of the four desserts available — Thai custard, banana in coconut milk, litchi and a coconut pudding (all $2) — the waitress suggested we try the coconut pudding, or kanom tuy. Each serving arrives warm in three tiny dishes the size of silver dollars and boasting a slightly sweet custard with a delicate, frothy top on a denser base. Finish with Thai iced coffee ($1.75), or consider hot tea in jasmine (75 cents) or ginger ($1) flavors.
The regular menu is buttressed with a variety of specials including an all-you-can-eat Saturday buffet from noon until 2:30 p.m., priced at $7.50, as well as daily lunch specials from $5.25 to $7.25. There is no liquor on the menu, but you can bring your own wine or beer.
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Thai Twee Restaurant
(2 forks)
1604 E. 53rd St.
773-493-1000
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 4-9:30 p.m. Sun.
Wheelchair accessible
Free parking at garage next door
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
