Every holiday meal has its nostalgic associations, but there’s nothing wrong with experimenting now and then, according to Jayne Cohen in her new cookbook, “The Gefilte Variations” (Scribner, $35):
“Jewish food was meant to be played with. Jews are constantly encouraged to question and reinterpret the accepted, as no one who has read the Passover Haggada (narrative) can forget.”
When the first Passover seder takes place tonight, many traditional foods will be required for the feast. But where there is room for improvisation, the recipes in this splendid book could breathe new life into both holiday and everyday meals.
The title may be a turnoff for readers not anxious to try gefilte fish in any variation. But looking through the book, they’ll find such interesting versions as salmon fish balls poached in fennel-wine broth and served with ginger-beet horseradish, or Egyptian ground fish balls with tomato and cumin.
Cohen, a New York free-lance food writer, writes that her own parents were enthusiastic, experimental cooks. Cohen takes that instinct and explores it further by encouraging readers to appreciate the cultures that have influenced–and been influenced by–Jewish cuisine, those from around the Mediterranean, the Middle East, Eastern Europe and the United States.
What follows are such recipes as savory artichoke matzo brei with yogurt cream; lentils “hummus” style with pomegranate and mint; pastrami-style salmon on onion and dill matzo; grated black radish and endive salad in shallot vinaigrette; and a rolled turkey loaf from Verona, Italy.
We tested three recipes, classics such as chopped liver, chicken cutlets, and macaroons, but Cohen gives each a contemporary lift. Recipes are easy, and each begins with a story (such as the author taking a pastrami sandwich to her grandfather in the hospital or her grandmother catching her sneaking matzo balls cooking on the stove), culinary history and cooking tips.
The chicken liver spread, a luxurious starter for any party, gets a deeply caramelized flavor and color from slow-cooked onions and a splash of balsamic vinegar to hone the onions’ sweet edge. In another nod to changing tastes, olive oil replaces the usual chicken fat, or schmaltz, that typically gives the spread its richness. Cohen takes the substitution one step further by suggesting the addition of a separate recipe for olive oil “schmaltz,” prepared by slow cooking onions with salt and olive oil.
Chicken cutlets, dipped in matzo meal for crunch, are fragrant with lemon juice, lemon zest and garlic, and perfectly crowned with a sprightly salad of peppery greens, tomatoes and onions in a vinaigrette. What a terrific dish this would be for summer, or any time fresh, crisp flavors are in order.
Coconut macaroons are a favorite at many Passover feasts. But Cohen slips in a flourish by coating the toasted almonds with maple syrup before grinding; the results are wonderful.
No photographs accompany the 200 recipes, but “Cook’s Notes,” a glossary, menu recommendations and suggested reading do a good job of fleshing out the book. All in all, a book to celebrate.
CHOPPED CHICKEN LIVER WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 8 appetizer servings
From “The Gefilte Variations,” by Jayne Cohen.
4 large eggs
6 to 8 tablespoons olive oil
5 cups very thinly sliced onions, plus 1 cup coarsely chopped (about 1 1/2 pounds total)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (if the vinegar is rough, or you must substitute instead 1 tablespoon mild red wine vinegar, you will also need 1/4 teaspoon brown sugar)
1 pound fresh (not previously frozen) chicken livers, rinsed, fat and any green spots removed
Accompaniments: soft lettuce, Belgian endive or radicchio leaves; radishes, green onions, ripe tomatoes, black olives, thinly sliced rye, matzo or other crackers, or challah
1. Preheat the broiler.
2. Hard-boil the eggs, cool and peel. Cut the eggs into eighths.
3. In a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet, warm 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onions, salt and pepper them slightly and saute, lifting and turning them occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 10 minutes. Cover tightly and cook the onions over the lowest heat setting, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, for 40 to 45 minutes, or until meltingly tender. Uncover, add the vinegar and additional salt and pepper to taste, and cook over high heat, lifting and tossing, until moisture is evaporated and the onions are colored a rich brown, about 7 minutes. Taste to adjust seasoning: The mixture should be just slightly sweet, but well salted and peppered, and the vinegar scent should be almost gone. If necessary, add the brown sugar and additional seasoning, then continue sauteing until thoroughly incorporated. Transfer about three-quarters of the mixture to a food processor, add 2 tablespoons oil, and puree.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the liver. Line the broiler rack with heavy brown paper sprinkled with water, or foil. Pat the livers dry with paper towels and spread them out on the broiler rack. Sprinkle them lightly with salt, and broil about 4 inches from the flame until lightly browned on top, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn, sprinkle the other side with salt, and broil them for another 3 to 4 minutes. Add the broiled livers to the cooked onions remaining in the skillet and saute for a minute or two. Let cool slightly, then add to the onion puree in the food processor. Pulse on and off to chop coarsely. Add the eggs. Pulse. Add the remaining 1 cup chopped raw onions and pulse on and off until desired texture is achieved. Transfer to a large bowl, taste for seasoning, and add 1 to 3 tablespoons more oil as needed to make it moist and rich. Mix well and refrigerate, covered, until thoroughly chilled.
5. Serve cold, on lettuce or, for a sophisticated presentation, Belgian endive or radicchio leaves. Accompany the liver with the suggested vegetables and breads. It is particularly good with grated black radish served alongside.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 230 Fat ………… 15 g Saturated fat .. 2.9 g
% calories from fat .. 58 Cholesterol .. 355 mg Sodium ……… 80 mg
Carbohydrates …… 10 g Protein …….. 14 g Fiber ………. 1.5 g
LEMON-FRIED CHICKEN WITH TART SALAD TOPPING
Preparation time: 65 minutes
Marinating time: 1 to 2 hours
Cooking time: 8 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
From “The Gefilte Variations,” by Jayne Cohen.
Cutlets:
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon olive oil, plus 1/4 cup for frying
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1 3/4 to 2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken cutlets, trimmed of fat and gristle and pounded lightly to a uniform thickness
2 large eggs
1 cup matzo meal, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
Salad:
1/2 pound ripe tomatoes, diced (1 cup)
3/4 cup finely chopped onions
2 tablespoons fine-quality extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 cups sharp salad greens (such as arugula, watercress, endive, radicchio, sorrel, flat-leaf parsley or purslane, or preferably a mixture of these), washed, dried and torn into bite-sized pieces
Accompaniments:
Lemon wedges
1. Prepare the cutlets. In a large bowl, blend together the garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Add the chicken, toss to coat thoroughly with the mixture, and refrigerate to marinate, covered, for 1 to 2 hours. Or marinate in a resealable plastic bag. Turn the chicken occasionally in the marinade to ensure even flavoring.
2. Beat the eggs well in a wide shallow bowl or pie pan. Stir together the matzo meal and lemon zest and spread on a large sheet of wax paper or a plate. Taking one cutlet at a time, dip into the beaten egg, coating well on both sides. Let the excess egg drip back into the bowl. Dredge the cutlets on both sides in the matzo meal mixture. To prevent loose crumbs from falling off and burning in the hot oil, pat the cutlets firmly on each side so the matzo meal adheres, then place them on a rack and let stand for about 15 minutes to set the coating.
3. Heat the 1/4 cup olive oil in a 10- to 12-inch heavy saute pan or skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the cutlets, (in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding the pan) and saute them for about 2 minutes on each side, or until golden and cooked through.
4. Transfer the cutlets as they are done to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to absorb excess oil, keeping them warm, if necessary, in a 200-degree oven, until the rest are done.
5. Prepare the salad. In a bowl, combine the tomato, onions, olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the greens and toss well.
6. Serve the cutlets topped with the salad, accompanied by the lemon wedges.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 550 Fat ………… 29 g Saturated fat .. 5 g
% calories from fat .. 48 Cholesterol .. 215 mg Sodium …. 1,010 mg
Carbohydrates …… 25 g Protein …….. 47 g Fiber …….. 2.6 g
TOASTED ALMOND-COCONUT MACAROONS
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 17 minutes
Yield: 30 cookies
From “The Gefilte Variations,” by Jayne Cohen.
1 3/4 cups (about 9 ounces) whole natural almonds
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup or packed brown sugar, preferably dark
2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon white or light brown granulated sugar
1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut
1 teaspoon amaretto, or 1/2 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover almond extract (optional)
4 large egg whites
Pinch of salt
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil. Toss the almonds with the maple syrup or brown sugar and spread them out in a single layer on the baking sheet. Toast until very fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees.
2. In a food processor, grind the cooled almonds with half the sugar, using the pulse motion, until finely ground. Combine the ground nuts, coconut, and amaretto or almond extract, if you are using it, in a large bowl.
3. Beat the egg whites in another large bowl with the salt until they form soft peaks. Gradually add the remaining sugar and continue beating until stiff but not dry. Gently fold the egg whites into the almond-coconut mixture.
4. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. (You will probably need either to use 2 cookie sheets or work in batches.) Drop heaping tablespoons of batter on the cookie sheet about 2 inches apart. Flatten the tops slightly. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until just dry to the touch and light golden with pale brown edges. Remove the sheet from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool or slide the parchment paper off.
5. Don’t remove the macaroons until the have cooled completely, then carefully separate them. They store well in airtight containers for at least 5 days.
Nutrition information per cookie:
Calories …………. 90 Fat ……….. 6 g Saturated fat .. 1.9 g
% calories from fat .. 58 Cholesterol .. 0 mg Sodium ……… 14 mg
Carbohydrates ……. 8 g Protein ….. 2.3 g Fiber ………. 1.3 g
