Only on rare days do diners find an inexpensive restaurant that combines a delightful decor, efficient service and food to rave about–a place where these elements all work together like the ingredients in the finest high-rising souffle.
One hopes the souffle won’t fall. But the level raised in a first visit to Mama Thai was hoisted even further in the second.
The attractive storefront has wood-paneled walls, wooden booths, a slatelike floor and lovely Thai paintings, hangings and masks on the walls. Servers arrive promptly and continue that trend throughout the meal as the kitchen staff cooks food to order in a timely manner.
Tom kha soup ($2.75 small; $3.50 large) sets the tone of fresh, fragrant, appealing food. The light, but slightly creamy, chicken broth and coconut milk mixture sparkles with flavors of galangal (a hot-tart root similar to ginger) and lime juice. Whether you choose chicken or shrimp for the soup, it completely satisfies with its play of sour elements against a slightly spicy aftertaste.
Another not-to-be-missed starter turns out to be that ubiquitous classic, satay ($4.95). But this is one of the best versions in the area, with tender, still-moist chicken pieces on five wooden skewers. A not-too-thick peanut sauce provides the sweet counterpoint to the grilled flavor of the meat. Tangy sweet-sour cucumbers lend a further contrasting taste. No wonder this is a classic dish in Thailand.
Pungent small dumplings called shumai ($4.95) come on an attractive glazed plate with a cup of vinegar-soy dipping sauce. The delicious small mouthfuls of shrimp and potatoes get your appetite going. Another appetizer, the calamari special ($6.95), includes a beautifully presented squid that has been sliced but placed back together. Charred on the outside, it arrives a bit overcooked but still pleasant. The sweet and spicy dipping sauce provides a contrast to the smoky flavor of the squid.
Despite the unusual (to Western palates, anyway) main ingredient, som tum ($5.95) combines shredded green papaya with shrimp, green beans, tomato and ground peanuts for a crunchy, excellent salad course.
Panang curry ($6.95) mixes a mild yellow curry sauce with strips of flavorful beef. Thick and rich with coconut milk, a little goes a long way. A good thing, too, as very little is served. Most of the plate holds a slice of iceberg lettuce and a garnish of tomato.
Green curry ($6.95), served in a clay pot, offers a heartier portion. It combines coconut milk with green curry paste, chicken or beef, and Thai basil leaves. If you are averse to chilies, don’t try this one. But if you crave the tongue-tingling heat of green chilies, this dish will satisfy you. The accompanying rice helps soothe the palate.
The menu’s catfish special ($7.95) teams a fried fillet with red curry, green beans, bell peppers and basil for a well-balanced, warming stew. The Mama Thai noodle special ($7.50) resembles a sweet version of chow mein: Thin, crispy egg noodles cover the plate, topped with small amounts of carrots, pea pods, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, shrimp, calamari and thin whispers of fried egg. The noodles are a bit cloying; we will try the pad thai next time.
Spicy basil chicken ($6.95)–ground chicken stir-fried with garlic, chilies, basil leaves, mushrooms and red and green bell peppers-yields nice flavors, but its sauce is too salty.
The owners don’t have a liquor license yet, so bring your own wine or beer to mitigate the spiciness. Other beverages include Thai iced coffee or iced tea ($1.75 each) or guava juice ($1.95).
As for dessert, you might not need it after many of the sweet sauces. But if you are daring and still hungry, try the taro or coconut ice creams ($3.95) or Thai custard ($2.50).
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Mama Thai Restaurant
(3 forks)
1112 W. Madison St.
Oak Park
708-386-0100
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Tues.-Thurs;
11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; noon-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
