As a landlubber whose perception of dining at sea comes from movies such as “Titanic,” I was somewhat taken aback when a veteran helmsman of moderate-size sailboats told me emphatically, “Reserve your fancy cooking for the home kitchen and don’t plan to feast until you have tied up or are back on shore.”
The speaker, the late Jimmy Rohr, well remembered for his now closed opera-oriented restaurant, Jimmy’s Place, was responding to my request for a briefing on off-shore culinary customs. His advice, given during an interview last summer, is so useful for new boat owners and for guests lacking sea legs and a knowledge of galley etiquette that I present it in his memory at the start of this boating season.
Before provisioning for a sail, Rohr recommended: “Realize the boat’s limitations in terms of storage, sources of heat for cooking and water capacity. The key word, always, is `practical.’ “
For instance, don’t bring glass on board. Use plastic glasses and containers. (Glass bottles of wine are an exception.) “Tupperware is God’s gift to sailboat food,” Rohr declared.
Use mugs for soup as well as coffee. Unbreakable plates should have high lips.
Hunger haunts those who ride the waves, as does the possibility of seasickness. So, Rohr insisted, have soda crackers and ginger ale on board at all times. If someone is feeling queasy, crackers will absorb excess stomach acid and ginger has welcome medicinal qualities. Use snacks to counter hunger–salted nuts, potato chips and pretzels, and bring a container of cut-up fruit. Dips and spreads should be thick, not watery. For example, an eggplant spread (recipe follows) can be served with crackers or pita bread wedges, which become “disposable plates.”
As for food preparation, Rohr suggested serving made-ahead, no-nonsense fare. “Don’t play chef while under sail,” he said, “and don’t introduce your guests to exotic, highly seasoned foods while on the water.” Instead of cooking main courses while under way, Rohr opted for prepared or partially prepared salads or sandwiches such as muffuletta (recipe follows), tabbouleh and a combination of tomato, mozzarella cheese and balsamic vinegar. Another intriguing prepared item is bite-size vegetable sushi.
Like all good hosts, Rohr did as much as possible in advance and minimized the groceries brought on board in need of further preparation. With this stipulation, he usually welcomed food contributions from guests.
One major concern is the possibility of food-borne illness. Bacteria can stow away on any boat, and flies board with impunity. Therefore Rohr bought cured cold cuts and smoked fish and cheeses for sandwiches, rejected cream soups in favor of refreshing vegetable-rich chilled gazpacho and made coleslaw with an oil and vinegar dressing.
To finish a meal, he often served a cheese and fruit tray with the stipulation that the cheeses be firm, such as cheddar, not runny, and the fruit be firm, such as apples. Fruit pies also won his approval, as did a fruit gazpacho with mint (recipe follows). But his favorite sweet treat was a firm cookie or Italian biscotti.
In addition to plenty of bottled water (still and sparkling, in plastic containers), Rohr stocked various colas, the aforementioned ginger ale, beer and wine. If it was not possible to make coffee on board, he brought it in a thermos.
The following recipes, selected by Jimmy Rohr, are from “The Chicago Tribune Cookbook.” Prepare one muffuletta per person.
FRUIT GAZPACHO WITH MINT
Six to eight servings
6 pounds fresh melon, such as Crenshaw, honeydew, cantaloupe, Canary or a combination
2 cups diced, seeded watermelon
1 Bartlett pear, cored, diced
1 cup seedless green or red grapes, halved
1/2 cup each halved fresh raspberries, seeded Bing cherries
Juice of 1 orange and 1 large lime
3 tablespoons light rum, optional
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon sugar or honey
Pinch ground cloves
Plain yogurt
1. Cut melons in half. Remove seeds. Cut melon away from rind. Put half of the melon into a blender or food processor. Process until pureed. Transfer to a large non-aluminum bowl.
2. Dice remaining melon. Stir into puree. Stir in watermelon, pear, grapes, raspberries, cherries, orange juice, lime juice, optional rum, 2 tablespoons mint, sugar and cloves. Refrigerate, covered, until very cold.
3. Taste and adjust seasonings if desired. Serve in bowls, topped with a dollop of yogurt and a sprinkle of mint.
EGGPLANT SPREAD
Makes about two cups (enough for 6 to 8 persons)
1 medium eggplant
1/4 cup each minced onion and minced fresh parsley
2 tablespoons each olive oil and fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 clove garlic, minced
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 large tomato, diced
1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts
Pita chips, crackers or bagel chips for serving
1. Pierce eggplant several times with the tines of a fork, then put it on paper towels or a microwave-safe plate in the microwave oven. Microwave on high (100 percent power) until eggplant softens and skin shrivels, 7 to 9 minutes, turning it over after 5 minutes. Refrigerate until cool to the touch, about 30 minutes.
2. Peel eggplant; cut off and discard stem end. Cut lengthwise in half. Roughly cut up eggplant and put into food processor or blender. Add onion, parsley, oil, lemon juice, salt, garlic and pepper. Process with off/on turns until smooth. Stir in tomato and nuts.
3. Serve with pita chips, crackers or bagel chips.
MUFFULETTA
Makes two sandwiches
6 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons each, finely chopped celery and pitted green olives
1 tablespoon each, finely chopped red onion and green or red bell pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 teaspoon each, dried leaf thyme, freshly ground pepper and crushed fennel seed
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 muffulettas (round loaves of Italian bread) or round Italian rolls
6 slices each of mortadella and capicolla sausage, aged Swiss cheese and mild provolone cheese
2 large leaves leaf lettuce
10 or 12 thin red onion rings
8 slices tomato
1. At least one day before serving, put oil, vinegar, celery, olives, chopped onion, bell pepper, lemon juice, garlic, thyme, crushed fennel and cayenne in a small bowl. Mix well. Refrigerate overnight. (Mixture will keep at least two weeks in the refrigerator.)
2. Slice muffulettas in half lengthwise with a serrated knife. For each sandwich, lay three slices of mortadella on the bottom half. Top with 3 slices each capicolla, Swiss cheese and provolone, alternating slices if you wish. Top with a lettuce leaf, 5 or 6 onion rings and 4 tomato slices. Spoon half the olive mixture (about 5 tablespoons) over the tomatoes. Cover with top half of the roll. Serve soon.
