Jonathan Carver called it “the most beautiful prospect that imagination can
form.” Stephen Long said, “The sublime and beautiful [are] here blended in the
most enchanting manner.”
It’s hard to outdo the flowery speech of early explorers, who wanted to
impress the folks back home. Nowadays, most people high above the Mississippi
River just say “Wow.”
Carver and Long were speaking of the view from Barn Bluff, a boxy mound
that rises between Red Wing, Minn., and the river. From the flat top of the
343-foot bluff, hikers can watch traffic crawl past the brick storefronts and
grain elevators of Red Wing and barges chug toward St. Paul. To the south, the
Mississippi widens into Lake Pepin, which dissolves into a tangle of sloughs
and islands around the mouth of the Chippewa River, across from Reads Landing.
The 260-mile-long Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge
starts there, continuing past La Crosse and into the Rhine-like river valley
of northeast Iowa.
This is the most beautiful part of the Mississippi River, and the bluffs
that line it provide a bird’s-eye view. Birds are at people’s-eye level: big
turkey vultures, coasting on updrafts; warblers, tracing loops in the air;
pelicans, winging by in military precision. It’s civilization that’s tiny —
the church spires, silos and trains in the distance look unreal, like part of
the backdrop on a diorama.
The world looks different 500 feet up. Each view is well worth the climb to
get there.
Barn Bluff, Red Wing
From downtown Red Wing, East Fifth Street leads straight to the foot of the
bluff French explorers called Mount La Grange, or barn mountain. The main path
follows the north side of the bluff, shady and cool on hot afternoons, and
passes a vertical rock face frequented by climbers. At the other end of the
bluff, steps lead to an overlook and a grassy slope that faces town and is a
popular spot to watch Fourth of July fireworks. A path atop the bluff leads
through prairie to the southern overlook, where it dead-ends; those who want
to return on the sunny south face have to return to the overlook before
heading down.
Frontenac State Park
From the nondescript town of Frontenac Station, turn east off U.S. Highway
61 and drive up to the state park. An overlook can be reached by car, but the
steep, bluffside trails also offer views — in the spring, of wildflowers and
migrating songbirds, as well as the river.
Continue south through Lake City to the highway pulloff at Reads Landing,
which is a good place to watch for eagles in early spring, when migrating
birds join those who roost there year-round. The Eagle Watch Observatory in
Wabasha, right on the river, is another good spot.
Garvin Heights
Continue south to Winona, turning west off U.S. 61 onto Garvin Heights
Road. From the Garvin Heights overlooks, 575 feet above the valley, there are
20-mile views up and down the river. The town stretches below, with its
collection of striking churches and commercial buildings; two sections of
downtown are National Historic Districts.
About 10 miles south of Winona, turn up Minnesota Highway 3.
Apple Blossom Drive
This is the start of a 17-mile scenic drive that follows a ridge lined with
orchards. But just north of Interstate Highway 90, turn into Great River
Bluffs State Park, former O.L. Kipp State Park. Here, 6 miles of hiking trails
lead to nine overlooks, perched above steep slopes that soak up southern
sunlight.
Continue across I-90 to Minnesota Highway 12, through the village of
Nodine, to Minnesota Highway 1. In May, orchards here are engulfed in clouds
of pink and white blossoms. Far below, the blue Mississippi flashes in and out
of sight, amid scenes of the Wisconsin River flats in the distance.
Wind down to La Crescent, “apple capital of Minnesota,” and cross the river
to La Crosse, Wis.
Granddad Bluff, La Crosse
Drive through town on Main Street and up to Granddad Bluff. It’s 590 feet
above the sandy plain on which sits La Crosse, named by French traders for the
ball game played by local Winnebagos. The sweeping views include the islands
and channels created by the Black and La Crosse Rivers as they flow into the
Mississippi.
The views south of La Crosse — from Mt. Hosmer City Park in Lansing, Iowa,
Pikes Peak State Park in McGregor, Iowa, and Wyalusing State Park south of
Prairie du Chien — are even better. But that’s another story.
Meanwhile, head north on Wisconsin Highway 35, past La Crosse and through
Onalaska to the village of Trempealeau.
Brady’s Bluff, Perrot State Park
From Trempealeau, which sits right on the water, follow the river into
Perrot State Park. It’s a slightly strenuous climb to the top of 520-foot
Brady’s Bluff, but the view is magnificent. The towers and domes of Winona
gleam 15 miles to the north, and just below is little Trempealeau Mountain,
ringed by the river and named by French explorers who called it La Montagne
Qui Trempe a l’Eau, or “the mountain that soaks in the water.”
It’s also a bird-watching aerie. Upriver, the Trempealeau National Wildlife
Refuge draws flocks of migrating waterfowl; downriver, the Van Loon State
Wildlife Area bottomlands attract still more.
Continue north on Wisconsin 35.
Buena Vista Park, Alma
At the southern edge of Alma (pronounced EL-ma), climb 2 miles up the bluff
to Buena Vista Park. It’s 500 feet above this river town, which has just two
streets, one along the highway and one set into the steep bluff. From the
pretty park overlook, there’s a view of Lock and Dam 4 and the wide river
plain, broken by the channels and islands of the wildlife refuge.
The drive north of Alma has no panoramas, but it’s scenic. The highway
winds between river and wooded bluffs, broken by limestone outcroppings that
gleam in the sun. Pepin and Stockholm have coffeehouses and art galleries;
Maiden Rock has an ice-cream shop and bars.
This stretch, wrote 19th Century poet William Cullen Bryant, “ought to be
visited in the summer by every poet and painter in the land.” Thankfully,
plain old gawkers get to see it too.
IF YOU GO
– LODGING
The St. James in Red Wing, $74-$200 (ask for packages), 800-252-1875,
www.st-james-hotel.com. Harrisburg Inn in Maiden Rock, $68-$98, 715-448-4500.
The Gallery House B&B in Alma, $85-$95, 608-685-4975. In Trempealeau, the
Trempealeau Hotel’s Doc West suites, $100-$120, 608-534-6898,
www.greatriver.com/hotel.htm, or the Riverview Motel, $50-$90, (608) 534-7784.
– DINING
In Red Wing, Bev’s Cafe and the Staghead, 612-388-6581. In Stockholm, Bogus
Creek Cafe and the Star Cafe, 715-442-2023. In Pepin, the Harbor View,
715-442-3893. In Fountain City, the Monarch Tavern and Preservation Hall,
608-687-4231. In Alma, Currents, 608-685-4880. In Trempealeau, the Trempealeau
Hotel.
– EVENTS
May 6-7: 85-Mile Garage Sale, Maiden Rock to Alma and Red Wing to Kellogg.
Fridays, June 2-July 28: Concerts in Wabasha’s Heritage Square Park, under
the bridge.
June 4: Free entry to Frontenac, Great River Bluffs and other state parks.
June 17: Summerfest in Maiden Rock.
June 23-25: Water Ski Days in Lake City.
July 15: Stockholm Art Fair.
– SIGHTSEEING
For a view from the water, take a cruise to Winona or Prairie du Chien on
the steamboat Julia Belle Swain out of La Crosse. 800-815-1005,
www.juliabelle.com.
– ACCESSIBILITY
Frontenac, Garvin Heights, Apple Blossom Drive and Granddad Bluff. Buena
Vista Park is accessible to wheelchairs with some able-bodied help.
– INFORMATION
Mississippi Valley Partners, 888-999-2619, www.mississippi-river.org.
