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NORTH

CAFE CENTRAL (2 forks)

455 Central Ave., Highland Park

847-266-7878

The location, concept and parentage (it’s owned by Carlos and Debbie Nieto of Carlos’) are all in order here.

Recommended: French onion soup, escargots, lamb shank, roasted chicken.

Open: Dinner Tue-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14.75-$21

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted up to 6:30 p.m.

Other: Wheelchair accessible; private parties; free parking.

CARLOS’ ****

429 Temple Ave., Highland Park

847-432-0770

Somehow, Carlos and Debbie Nieto keep finding top-notch talent to run the kitchen of their North Shore gem, now in its 18th year. Chef de cuisine is Ramiro Velasquez, whose classic, perfectly balanced cooking is enhanced by camera-ready presentations. The front room staff, led by Carlos himself, is relaxed in its approach, yet unfailingly attentive. This is dining at its unintimidating best.

Recommended: Crab salad with organic cucumber, Asian pear salad, sweetbreads with sweetbread-mousse roulade, caramelized red snapper, chocolate mousse pyramid.

Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $28-$36.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Jackets required; wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

JILLY’S CAFE *

2614 Green Bay Rd., Evanston

847-869-7636

A tiny, tidy French cafe where the staff works hard to please. Entrees include soup or salad, and a sorbet – and even so, it’s tough to say no to the dessert tray.

Recommended: Mushroom-cherry spring roll, veal paillard, sofrito-crusted salmon

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$17

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

OCEANIQUE **

505 Main St., Evanston

847-864-3435

Seafood is the specialty here, French-influenced American is the style. Chef/owner Mark

Grosz commendably explores more than the expected range of fish on his ever-changing menu, and his meat dishes are worthwhile, too. Good service, casual atmosphere and a fairly priced wine list are pluses. Desserts are very good.

Recommended: Chicken liver mousse, grilled Scottish salmon.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $22-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

RAVINIA BISTRO (2 forks)

581 Roger Williams Ave., Highland Park

847-432-1033

Though popular among patrons of adjacent Ravinia Park, this cozy casual bistro is best when Ravinia is dark.

Recommended: Mussels mariniere, onion tart, rack of lamb, chicken confit.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tues.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.95-$20

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

WEST

BISTRO BANLIEUE **

44 Yorktown Convenience Center, Lombard

630-629-6560

This west suburban charmer is looking very spiffy after an extensive makeover and expansion in 1999. Decor is softly lit, the muted yellow walls giving the dining room a golden glow. The classic bistro menu is well-executed, and customer-friendly touches, such as petite-portion entrees for smaller appetites, abound.

Recommended: Smoked salmon-goat cheese tart, nut-crusted mahi-mahi, tart tatin, profiteroles.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $10.95-$21.95

Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible.

CAFE 36 ***

22 Calendar Court, La Grange

708-354-5722

This west-suburban veteran’s recent move (a couple of blocks away from its original location) has given the team of Reinhard Barthel and Reinhard Barthel Sr. a larger, more comfortable space – which now includes a spacious bar for waiting customers. The French menu, with a special emphasis on wild game, remains the same.

Recommended: Lobster in phyllo purse, pheasant vol-au-vent, profiteroles.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $12.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

LES DEUX GROS **

462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn

630-469-4002

The name (roughly translated, the Two Fat Guys) is a self-deprecating reference to girthsome owners Tom and Michael Lachowicz, who operate this sunny west suburban gem. Brother Michael is the well-traveled chef, and he delights patrons with indulgent ingredients cooked with considerable style. A well-thought-out wine list and understated professional service are big pluses.

Recommended: Crab-salmon parfait, lobster-scallop ravioli, bouillabaisse, grilled quail, profiterole.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $23-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

MONTPARNASSE ***

200 E. 5th Ave., Naperville

630-961-8203

Montparnasse continues to reign as the western suburbs’ most accomplished French restaurant. The kitchen and the front room have matured noticeably; the menu is complex and adventurous (though the classics are well represented) and the service is assured, poised and personable. Though it isn’t easy, save room for dessert.

Recommended: Squab salad, rainbow trout, pheasant breast, sauteed venison, creme brulee

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $20-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking.

NORTHWEST

BARN OF BARRINGTON (3 forks)

1415 S. Barrington Rd., Barrington

847-381-8585

This former barn is heavy with elegance, and though it seats 140, the alcove-filled dining room offers plenty of privacy.

Recommended: Ostrich, crabcake, chocolate mousse.

Open: Dinner Tues.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $12.45-$37

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking.

BARRINGTON COUNTRY BISTRO **

700 W. Northwest Hwy., Barrington

847-842-1300

Tucked into The Foundry shopping center, this spacious and cheerful bistro features food that is serious and occasionally dazzling. Though friendly and accommodating, service could use a smidgen more polish.

Recommended: Pastrami-salmon salad, mussels mariniere, pork tenderloin, braised rabbit, lemon tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $12.25-$17.25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking permitted in bar area only.

CHRISTOPHE **

111 N. Main St., Crystal Lake,

815-444-0374

Charming, intimate, quiet and comfortable, Christophe stands in stark contrast to the pack-’em-in food-barn mentality that afflicts so many new restaurants. The 56-seat, white-tablecloth dining room is a lovely setting for chef/owner John Havlis’ French-influenced food. The small, thoughtfully chosen wine list has attractive prices.

Recommended: Stuffed calamari, wild-mushroom casserole, bouillabaisse Christophe, magret of duck, chocolate ganache brownie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Smoking not permitted; wheelchair accessible.

D&J BISTRO (4 forks)

466 S. Rand Rd. Lake Zurich

847-438-8001.

One of the suburbs’ first bistros, D&J still outpaces the competition with fresh French cooking and budget-friendly prices.

Recommended: Escargot cassoulet, duck liver mousse, ostrich medallions, sausage and lentils.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13-$21

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

LE FRANCAIS ****

269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling

847-541-7470

Jean Banchet, who created this world-famous French restaurant in 1973, is back at the helm after a 10-year absence. The dining room has been given a light, contemporary look, highlighted by a large window that peeks into the kitchen. The menu is a collection of Banchet Then and Banchet Now, though some credit is due chef de cuisine David Sanders. Le Francais’ veteran front-room staff makes the dining experience seamless and unintimidating.

Recommended: Artichoke terrine, striped bass with lobster-truffle vinaigrette, game plate, flourless chocolate cake

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $31.50-$34.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jackets requested; no smoking.

LE TITI DE PARIS ***

1015 W. Dundee Rd. Arlington Heights

847-506-0222

A 28-year-old that doesn’t show its age, Le Titi never fails to surprise and delight with its contemporary menus. Michael Maddox is the chef de cuisine these days, but founding chef and owner Pierre Pollin is never far from the kitchen. For great value and variety, try the $53, six-course menu gourmand.

Recommended: Ahi tuna carpaccio, salmon and mascarpone terrine, mushroom velout, ostrich osso bucco, mixed-berry napoleon.

Open: Dinner Tues.-Sat., lunch Tues.-Fri.

Entree prices: $22-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible

LE VICHYSSOIS ***

220 W. Ill. Hwy. 120, Lakemoor

815-385-8221

Bernard Cretier opened this country-French restaurant in what was, in 1976, a rather remote corner of the Chicagoland area. Though still a considerable drive from the city, Le Vichyssois continues to justify the trip, by virtue of its attentively prepared, top-quality cooking (at relatively modest prices), and lovely surroundings that, with their off-white and silver colors, have the look of expensive wedding gift-wrap. European dessert service – a wheeled cart from which patrons select up to three desserts – is worth a trip in itself.

Recommended: Vichyssoise, lobster wontons, galette of crab, ostrich medallions, veal loin with hedgehog mushrooms, fruit tarts.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15.75-$34

Credit cards: DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking available.

SOUTH

BURGUNDY BISTRO (4 forks)

3462 Vollmer Rd., Olympia Fields

708-747-5399

This cozy gem has been discovered, to the dismay of regulars who wanted to hog this uncompromisingly fresh neighborhood bistro for themselves.

Recommended: Grilled portobello, shrimp Albear, blackened ribeye, pesto pasta.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

CAFE GASTON (3 forks)

14438 John Humphrey Dr., Orland Park

708-660-0067

Try to name another restaurant where you can order a feuillete au fromage (puff pastry filled with ham and cheeses) and a tuna melt off the same menu and you’ll get an idea of how unusual Cafe Gaston is. The bright, casual place is pleasant for a sit-down meal, but its early closing hour ( 8 p.m.) and small waitstaff make it better suited to satisfying carryout cravings.

Recommended: Gaston’s salad, feuillete au fromage, crab cakes Dijonaise, chicken farfalle, grilled veggie sandwich, apple French bread pudding.

Open: Breakfast, lunch, early dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5-$10.50

Credit cards: M, V, A

Other: Delivery; catering menu.

DIONNE’S CAFE (4 forks)

606 N. Dixie Hwy., Momence

815-472-6081

Fifty miles south of downtown Chicago is a picture-perfect hideaway with delicious food and attentive service.

Recommended: Pithivier, pat, sweet-potato bisque, chicken en croute.

Open: Dinner Fri.-Sat., lunch Tues.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15.50-$24.50

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Required

Other: No smoking

LOUIS’ BON APPETIT **

302 S. Main St., Crown Point, Ind.

219-663-6363

About 45 miles south of the Loop is a 95-year-old mansion with old-fashioned charm. There are two dining rooms: One for chef Louis Retailleau’s classic French fare, another for a recently added menu of fine steaks and chops. Personable service will leave you smiling no

matter which room you’re in. Very good wine list.

Recommended: French onion soup, lobster bisque, smoked salmon, veal medallions, roast duck, flourless chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $14-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended for dining room.

Other: Wheelchair accessible

TALLGRASS *** 1/2

1006 S. State St., Lockport

815-838-5566

Far from the bustle of Chicago sits this uncommonly good restaurant, whose charms draw customers from 60 miles and more. The restaurant sits in a small house decorated in Victorian splendor; the cuisine by chef/owner Robert Burcenski is equally impressive, though more contemporary in presentation.

Recommended: Shrimp in three styles, lobster basket, pancetta-crusted pike, duck and goose breast, chocolate-raspberry tower.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $45 (three-course), $55 (four-courses), $65 (five-courses), and $75 (seven-course chef tasting).

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WAYSIDE MANOR (4 forks)

1216 Main St., Crete

708-672-8080

This is an oasis of Victoriana where you can experience 19th Century splendor (minus corsets and starched collars) while enjoying exceptional Escoffier-inspired cuisine. The 94-year-old house/restaurant has been lovingly restored and meticulously appointed by its resident owners, Jim and Alma Howard.

Recommended: Smoked game sausage plate, filet of beef tenderloin, roulade of pork loin en croute, crepes Alma.

Open: Dinner Thurs.-Sat.

Entree prices: $20.95-$23.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Free parking CITY

THE BERGHOFF ***

17 W. Adams St.

312-427-3170

A must-visit stop on any first-time visitor’s list. The Berghoff, more than a century old, is so awash in Chicago history it’s easy to relegate the restaurant to the past. But the restaurant, which continues to offer solid, no-nonsense German standards and American dishes, is holding its own at a time when many of Chicago’s German restaurants are closing.

Recommended: Wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, sausage combination, sirloin steak salad, Black Forest cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $8.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Reduced parking rates after 4 p.m. at Mid-Continental Plaza; wheelchair accessible.

NORTH

EDELWEISS BISTRO *

7650 W. Irving Park Rd., Norridge

708-452-6040

American dishes dot the menu of this Northwest suburban restaurant, but the German specialties, as good as you’ll find anywhere in Chicago, are the real reason to dine here.

Recommended:Hackepeter, rouladen,St. Johanner reindl.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking.

NORTHWEST

THE HERITAGE HOUSE (3 forks)

21225 E. U.S. Hwy. 14, Harvard

815-943-6153

Gracious, warm service and substantial German and American specialties make this far northwest spot worth the drive.

Recommended: Pork ribs, filet mignon, rouladen, apple strudel.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.25-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

DIE BIER STUBE (3 forks)

42 Kansas St., Frankfort

815-469-6660

If you ate like this more than a few times a year, your thighs could replace the Berlin Wall. From knockwurst to strudel, all the hearty German favorites are here. As an occasional treat, however, this is a great choice.

Recommended: Wiener schnitzel, spaetzel, potato pancakes.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted (except Sat).

Other: Salad bar; beer garden.

GREEK

CITY

COSTA’S **

340 S. Halsted St.

312-263-9700

1 S. 130 Summitt Ave., Oakbrook Terrace

630-620-1100

Very good cooking and extremely friendly service characterize these city and suburban Greek spots, whose spacious dining rooms are done in terra-cotta and white tones with oak trim; other niceties include white tablecloths.

Recommended: Stuffed calamari, shrimp piperates, taramosalata, whole sea bass, Athenian chicken, ek-mek katafi.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other:Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

PAPAGUS ***

Embassy Suites Chicago

620 N. State St.

312-642-8450

The best Greek restaurant in town. The menu relies heavily on mezedes, small appetizer plates similar to Spanish tapas and equally suited to grazing. The food is fresh, imaginative and carefully crafted. Service is very informative and efficient. A second Papagus, in Oakbrook Center in Oak Brook, is nearly identical.

Recommended:Tirosalata (feta-cheese spread), grilled octopus, spanakopita, broiled lamb chops, baklava, lemon-yogurt cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking at lunch, valet parking available.

THE PARTHENON **

314 S. Halsted St.

312-726-2407

Greektown is about loud laughter, big smiles and hearty, simple food. And The Parthenon fulfills this mission about as well as any restaurant in Greektown. This is the birthplace, after all, of flaming saganaki, and, claim the owners, the first restaurant in America to serve gyros – still homemade here.

Recommended: Gyros, mezedes assortment, lamb with artichokes, grilled quail, broiled snapper.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$15.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Complimentary valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

PEGASUS *

130 S. Halsted St.

312-226-3377

The dining room is bright, fresh and airy, making a good first impression. An attentive,

cheerful waitstaff and light, somewhat imaginative menu (check the daily specials for best options) are pluses, too.

Recommended: Taramosalata, charcoal-grilled octopus, broiled sea bass, spanakotiropita (spinach-cheese pie).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices:$7.95-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

QP **

200 E. Chestnut St.

312-751-2100

Formally decorated, with a sizable wine list and a wide-ranging menu including high-quality steaks and chops, QP challenges the common perceptions of Greek restaurants.

Recommended: Stuffed calamari, skordalia, grilled octopus, broiled snapper, yuvetsi, ravani (semolina cake with honey).

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking in dining room.

SANTORINI **

800 W. Adams St.

312-829-8820

One of the least touristy stops on the Greektown circuit, but popular among serious eaters. Stick to the seafood and you’ll be fine at this charmingly rustic restaurant, although the roasted chicken is a good bet, too.

Recommended: Charcoal-grilled octopus, taramosalata, shrimp tourkolimano, whole red snapper, whole black sea bass, chicken Santorini, homemade yogurt, baklava.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$13.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Complimentary valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

INDIAN

CITY

JAIPUR PALACE **

22 E. Hubbard St.

312-595-0911

Exotically seasoned food and elegant surroundings go hand in hand at this handsome Indian restaurant, whose decor includes warm walls with arched openings, backlit ceiling panels in bright colors and starched white tablecloths. The food is pretty as well; even the murkier vegetable dishes arrive in elegant vessels. The daily lunch buffet, $8.95, is a bargain.

Recommended: Chooza pakora, dal makhani, seafood combination platter, lamb mughlai biryani, chicken vindaloo.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

KLAY OVEN ***

414 N. Orleans St.

312-527-3999

Indian cuisine with fine-dining standards. The restaurant features lovely decor, extraordinarily well-versed and helpful staffers, descriptive menus, an impressive selection of wines and beers and adventurous, freshly cooked food.

Recommended: Jheenga til tinka (marinated prawns), tamatar shorba (tomato soup), machhli ke tikke (tandori-baked mahi-mahi), sikandari champa (marinated rack of lamb), tardka dal (curried lentils).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

WEST

KHYBER PASS (4 forks)

1031 Lake St., Oak Park

708-445-9032

Mohammad Jawid’s restaurant offers a sensational culinary passage to a rich and varied Indian cuisine.

Recommended: Samosa, onion kulcha, Khyber naan, tandoori chicken, chicken mukhni, bengan bhurta,vegetable biryani, rice pudding.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.50-$12

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

INDIAN GARDEN (3 forks)

855 E. Schaumburg Rd., Schaumburg

847-524-3007

Rich aromas of cumin, curry, cinnamon and sizzling onions waft from the restaurant, whetting the appetite. Inside, flavors are complex and satisfying.

Recommended: Appetizer assortment of vegetable fritters, meats, samosa dumplings; mulligatawny soup; crab and lobster curries; chicken tikka masala; gulab jamun.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$14.95

Credit cards:A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Lunch buffet; wheelchair accessible; carryout.

SOUTH

TANDOOR (3 forks)

1535 U.S. Hwy. 41, Schererville, Ind.

219-865-9511

Sophisticated Indian food in unpretentious surroundings awaits those who venture to this shopping-center locale. Low prices will appeal to bargain hunters.

Recommended: Onion kulcha, khas biryani, tandoor chicken wings, smoked eggplant puree.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95-$11.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

INDONESIAN

AUGUST MOON **

225 W. 26th St.

312-842-2951

One of Chicago’s few Indonesian menus is found in this unassuming BYOB restaurant, tucked into a quiet side street off Wentworth Street in Chinatown. Indonesian specialties are memorably exotic, and deliberately low on spice; if you like extra hotness, say so when you order. The rijstaffel dinner, 18 dishes served family style ($35 per person, minimum four), is a singular experience and well worth the money (must be ordered one day in advance). The menu includes a good selection of vegetarian dishes.

Recommended: August Moon eggrolls, soto ayam, rendang, Grandmother’s pot roast, shrimp in spicy gravy, fried bananas.

Open: Lunch Tues.-Fri., dinner Tues.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$14.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: BYOB; wheelchair accessible; small parking lot available.

CITY

A TAVOLA **

2148 W. Chicago Ave.

773-276-7567

No, you aren’t imagining things; this cute 56-seat Italian, just eight blocks from the United Center, moved exactly one door east, acquiring a building with a slightly more spacious dining room and a private party room. What hasn’t changed is the compact menu of lovingly prepared dishes.

Recommended: Fried zucchini blossoms, gnocchi with pesto, prosciutto-wrapped veal medallions, sauteed halibut, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $16-$24

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

BUCA DI BEPPO (3 forks)

2941 N. Clark St.

773-348-7319

604 N. Milwaukee Ave.,

Wheeling

847-808-9898

90 Yorktown Rd., Lombard

630-932-7673

Expect abundant, made-to-share portions at these big, boisterous eateries serving Italian favorites. Serious Italian this isn’t – the taffeta-draped shrine to Frank Sinatra and the cherub-decorated “Pope’s Room” are tipoffs – but the huge, family-style-sized dishes are good.

Recommended: Bruschetta, Buca chicken vesuvio, pastas, cannoli.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; private party rooms.

CARMINE’S **

1043 N. Rush St.

312-988-7676

An Italian seafooder with a respectable selection of fresh fish and shellfish. But this corporate sibling to Rosebud and Centro has more fans for its straight Italian fare, including mountainous pastas. A nice restaurant to visit when it isn’t crowded; when the place is packed, the reservations system hits overload and you may be in for a long wait. The food isn’t fancy, but portions are large and prices fair.

Recommended: Baked clams, misto di pesce, chocolate cake.

Open:. Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., breakfast Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$34.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

CENTRO **

710 N. Wells St.

312-988-7775

Arrive early and hope for the best at this River North hot spot; if the wait is long, the young, dressed-to-dazzle crowd is certainly easy on the eyes. Pastas, in stupendous portions, are the big draw, but the other classic Italian dishes, too.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, roasted red peppers, broccoli salad, chicken marsala, pastas, tiramisu.

Open:. Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10.25-$29.95

Credit cards:. A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Converstion-challenged

Other: Valet parking available; wheelchair accessible.

COCO PAZZO ***

300 W. Hubbard St.

312-836-0900

This New York import by Pino Luongo is very much at home in Chicago. The kitchen serves up brilliantly executed examples of hearty Tuscan cooking, characterized by big and bold flavors. The converted-loft dining space is similarly large and rough-hewn, though civilized touches – arty earth-and-sky centerpieces, white tablecloths, heavy velvet curtains – give the room a sophisticated air. One of the best Italian dining rooms in the city.

Recommended:. Chicken livers with polenta, duck-confit risotto, cheese and truffle-oil pizza, pancetta-wrapped pork, cicciolata fondante.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking available.

COCO PAZZO CAFE **

636 N. St. Clair St.

312-664-2777

This step-sibling to Coco Pazzo is casual and very accessible, from its drop-by-anytime hours to its exceedingly modest prices. Charming rustic decor, enhanced by snappy service, is the perfect backdrop for the kitchen’s earthy Tuscan food. In pleasant weather, the open-air cafe is one of the city’s best.

Recommended: Carpaccio, pork chop.

Open:. Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10.75-$20

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available for dinner.

COROSH (2 forks)

1072 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-235-0600

For those all-too-brief balmy days, Corosh offers one of the city’s best outdoor dining environments: a patio combining the best parts of a European cafe with the ambience of your neighbor’s back yard. Some of the Italian fare can be disappointing, but the pub offerings are reliably good.

Recommended: Louisiana (and other) burgers, fusilli Corosh.

Open:. Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $6-$20

Credit cards:. A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

FRANCESCA’S ON TAYLOR **

1400 W. Taylor St.

312-829-2828

This Taylor Street Italian follows the same formula of uncomplicated food, good portions and reasonable prices as its siblings (Mia Francesca, et al), though it adds some civilized touches, such as better soundproofing and a reservations policy.

Recommended: Quattro stagione pizza, mushroom risotto, veal sassi, peach crumble.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $9.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking available.

GIOCO **

1312 S. Wabash Ave.

312-939-3870

Is the south-of-Roosevelt neighborhood about to become the next trendy restaurant district? Jerry Kleiner and Howard Davis, who helped pioneer the Randolph Street rebirth, are exploring the South Side with Gioco, a rustic Italian whose urban-distressed decor hints at the building’s past as a Prohibition-era speakeasy. The location may be odd, but the food is very good and service is surprisingly adept.

Recommended: Carpaccio mare e monti, smoked-salmon pizza, chicken Vesuvio, lemon tart, mascarpone mousse.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $10-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking lunch and dinner; wheelchair accessible.

LA DONNA **

5146 N. Clark St.

773-561-9400

Even if you’re dining alone, you’ll feel like part of a group here; closely spaced tables and a noticeable lack of empty seats make every dinner seem like a communal event. Even the generously portioned dishes seem to be prepared with groups in mind. For all the family-style atmosphere, however, the food is sophisticated as well as unfussy.

Recommended: Bruschetta, mixed seafood grill, pumpkin ravioli, crocantino, Chocolate Decadence.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $7.95-$21.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more.

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking available on weekends; wheelchair accessible; private party rooms available.

LA SCAROLA (2 forks)

721 W. Grand Ave.

312-243-1740

Despite its low-key storefront setting, La Scarola draws its share of high-profile diners, including some of Chicago’s best-known chefs. Classic Italian dishes are well-executed and shockingly large.

Recommended: Sauteed escarole, pasta and fagioli, eggplant parmigiana, pasta Vesuvio, veal Monselli, cannoli.

Open:. Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $8.95-$22.95

Credit cards:. A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible