Invariably the name Innsbruck evokes images of snow-blanketed mountains that are so pristine and soaring that people can barely wait to pack their skis. But since I’m not a skier and I definitely get my fill of winter right here in Chicago, I was quite content to wait till summer when I could visit this Alpine city after it thawed. What I found defied the seasons — a beautifully preserved historic treasure that blends the old with the new.
Even in summer, there’s lingering evidence of the city’s Olympic roots.
Ski runs, ski jumps and the towering torch with its now-extinguished flame are reminders that Innsbruck played host to the 1964 and 1976 Winter Games where it gained international celebrity. However, way before that the capital of Austria’s Tirol province staked its claim as a bustling center of commerce. As early as 1180, Innsbruck, situated on the Inn River at the crossroads of the northern and southern Alps, was a marketplace meeting point. The city, one of the few spots along the river with a bridge where travelers could cross, was aptly named Innsbruck, or “bridge over the Inn.” Only those who paid an entrance toll were allowed beyond the city walls.
Today, the gates to Innsbruck’s Altstadt (Old Town) have been torn down and you can wander around its quaint, cobblestone streets for free. It’s still possible to see the original city walls, however. One of the best spots I discovered was in the men’s washroom (yes, you read that right) at the Ottoburg Restaurant next to the Old Town’s main entrance on Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse. Considered by some to be the oldest house on the street, dating back to 1200, the Ottoburg was formerly a fortress. Now, with its pretty views of the Inn River and a warm, inviting Gothic decor, the Ottoburg is popular among the locals who enjoy its traditional, Tirolean cuisine.
As you stroll farther down the street, you’ll be struck by the fairy-tale quality of Innsbruck’s Old Town. Fancy, medieval signs with symbols of eagles, horses, lions and deer hang gaily from the buildings, hinting of the names of the restaurants, lodgings and shops housed inside. While the majority of the dwellings were constructed between 1180 and 1240, a few centuries later Innsbruck got a facelift, and the town took on a lighter, more rounded, Baroque appearance.
In the heart of the city, in the main square, stands Innsbruck’s most famous landmark, the Golden Roof. A spectacular sight day or night (when it’s illuminated), this ornate, gold tiled, two-story balcony, built onto the front of an old house, is reminiscent of the days when Innsbruck rose to prominence under the Hapsburg reign. Decorated with 2,657 gilded shingles, the Golden Roof was completed in 1500 for Emperor Maximilian I, who used the oriel to watch jousting tournaments below. Maximilian, dubbed the last knight, chose Innsbruck as his main residence, and the city became the focal point of Europe.
On the balustrade is a relief of Maximilian and his two wives — the first, Mary of Burgundy, whom he loved, and the second, Bianca Maria Sforza of Milan, whose money he loved.
Go inside the Golden Roof and you’ll find the Maximilianeum, a high-tech museum that gives an excellent introduction to the emperor and his beloved city. This is also where the burgermeister performs weddings on special occasions. But not on the balcony (although I tried to sneak a peek); no one is allowed up there.
Around the corner, east of the Golden Roof, is the elegant Hofburg Palace where Maximilian lived. Two centuries later another Hapsburg, Maria Theresa, completely remodeled the castle in anticipation of her first — and what turned out to be her only — stay in Innsbruck.
In 1765, the empress came to celebrate her son’s wedding, but in the midst of the festivities, her husband, Franz Stephan, had a heart attack and died. “People still make a cute joke about this,” said my guide, Angelika Mair. “They say that she had 16 children and he died before her.”
Perhaps more curious is the grandiose plan that Maximilian hatched to memorialize his own death. The emperor spent years designing an incredibly elaborate mausoleum surrounded by a funeral procession of 40 larger than life-size bronze statues of his real and imagined ancestors and relatives.
Although only 28 of the figures were actually made (including King Arthur, Maximilian’s two wives and a sister who I stayed away from because she reputedly increases your chances of becoming pregnant), Maximilian’s vision can be seen in the Hofkirche (Court Church) which adjoins the Hofburg Palace.
There is, however, one glaring omission. Maximilian isn’t buried in his tomb. When he returned to his favorite city to die, the townsfolk refused to let him stay because of unpaid debts, and to this day, his tomb remains empty.
Instead, Maximilian died at his birthplace, Wiener Neustadt, near Vienna. The Hofkirche does contain the tomb of another important man, Andreas Hofer, a local innkeeper who led a group of farmers into battle against Napoleon’s troops and won, thus becoming the Tirol’s national hero.
Putting history aside for the moment, I continued to explore Innsbruck’s streets. In the Old Town, which becomes strictly for pedestrians after 10:30 a.m., there are lots of tempting little shops selling everything from Swarovski crystal and antique clocks to modern practicalities like condoms. Down a small, side street next to a gurgling fountain (at Stiftgasse 2-4) are two Innsbruck institutions that should not be missed. Tucked inside a 600-year-old house, in a room big enough to serve one customer, is the Speckschwemme, which sells sausages and speck, a thin, prosciutto-like meat. Go before noon and you’ll be early enough to pick up a loaf of freshly baked bread.
Next-door is a wine and schnapps shop. The schnapps (not to be confused with the liqueur variety sold in the U.S.) is an all natural, 100 percent pure distilled spirit made from fruit, and it’s strong enough to knock your socks off. With a twinkle in his eye, the store’s owner, Herbert Signor, gave me a taste and told me that this is a form of “Austrian medication.” Signor also carries 200 wines, which he personally selects after visiting vineyards throughout Austria.
Further south, in the newer section of Innsbruck, is Maria-Theresien-Strasse, a main shopping street that culminates with the stately Triumph Arch commemorating the empress’ visit. Off of a cross street (at Meraner Strasse 2) is what my guide told me was the city’s best handicraft shop, Tiroler Heimatwerk. Here you can buy traditional Tirolean lederhosen and dirndls with embroidery and handmade lace.
Then it’s back to the Old Town to indulge in one of Innsbruck’s most delectable treats, pastry from a konditorei (pastry shop). Like the Viennese, Innsbruckers take their pastries seriously, and one of the favored spots is Cafe Munding (at Kiebachgasse 16). I, of course, couldn’t resist, and soon found myself seated on the Munding’s front terrace, savoring a slice of chocolate Sachertorte with a dollop of whipped cream.
Now for another dose of history. Back near the main entrance is another landmark. The Goldener Adler (golden eagle) hotel and restaurant has been a mainstay of Innsbruck since 1390. Since that time it has hosted a number of famous guests including Maximilian I and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who stayed at the Goldener Adler in 1773 and used the hotel as his private postal address. Jean Paul Sartre, Maria von Trapp and astronaut John Glenn stayed here too. Outside, on the restaurant’s front wall, there’s a plaque that chronicles notable guests, though not in any particular order. Take a peek in the restaurant and you’ll see a big, round, wooden table. This is where that Tirolean hero Andreas Hofer sat in 1809, plotting his moves against Napoleon’s army.
Likewise, no visit to Innsbruck would be complete without a trip to Schloss Ambras, a Renaissance palace located 2 miles southeast of the Old Town. (Catch a shuttle bus opposite McDonalds on Maria-Theresien-Strasse.) This splendid castle was rebuilt in 1564 by Maximilian’s great grandson Archduke Ferdinand II, for his beautiful wife, Philippine Welser, a commoner who was spurned by the royal family. After Philippine died in 1580, the archduke, one of the great collectors of his time, gathered all of his treasures together and created Austria’s first museum in the lower portion of the castle.
The Wunderkammer (Chamber of Wonders) holds all sorts of precious items as well as intriguing curiosities such as a painting of a hirsute child and 16th Century dental tools. There’s also a rare collection of armor, including suits worn by dwarfs, giants and children. In the upper castle, you’ll find a magnificent concert hall where the annual Innsbruck Festival of Early Music is held (July 3-Aug. 27 this year), plus a portrait gallery featuring 250 Hapsburgs.
Since Innsbruck is completely surrounded by mountains, the best way to view the city is from the top of them. Taking a funicular up to the Hungerburg plateau (2,832 feet) on the Nordkette (north chain) of mountains is one way to do it. (To get there, take trolley No. 1 from the city’s center.)
The panorama of the Inn Valley below is astounding, but if you want to proceed to greater heights, where you can see awe-inspiring Alpine peaks and glaciers, take a cable car up to the Seegrube (6,250 feet) and the Hafelekar (7,658 feet). Try to go on a sunny day. When I went it was cold and rainy but, nonetheless, an experience I won’t forget.
The other way to appreciate Innsbruck’s superb beauty is to go hiking.
Innsbruck is the headquarters for the world-renowned Alpine School of Innsbruck, for mountain hiking. As part of its program, free hikes led by certified guides are offered to tourists daily, rain or shine.
On a Sunday, when the city essentially rolls up, I took a seven-hour hike that traversed the slopes and pastures, reaching elevations as high as 6,000 feet. My guide, transportation to our starting point that day (Axamer Lizum, where the giant slalom and ladies downhill Olympic ski championships were held), return trip back to Innsbruck, boots and a backpack were all provided free.
The scenery, which included spectacular, sweeping views of Innsbruck as well as neighboring Italy and Bavaria, was colored by occasional encounters with an Alpine cow.
The hike, one of 60 guided walks, also turned out to be a great way to meet an interesting cross-section of people from around the world. One man, a 73-year-old from England, said he had been hiking in Innsbruck for 15 summers and had gone on more than 300 hikes.
A virtual hotbed for the athletically inclined, Innsbruck also offers a wide variety of other summer sports. Mountain climbing, mountain biking, hang-gliding, rafting, golfing, horseback riding, swimming, tennis and parachute jumping are a few of them. But if you still have your heart set on skiing, not to worry. You can do that, too, at a nearby glacier only an hour away.
As for me, I’ll take a pass. Winter in Chicago will be here soon enough.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
There are no direct flights from Chicago to Innsbruck; however, Austrian Airlines offers daily non-stop service from Chicago to Vienna. From there, Tyrolean Airways flies to Innsbruck. Innsbruck’s airport is only a 10-minute drive from the city. Taxis cost about $7, or take bus line F ($1.50) ,which is routed to the city’s center.
LODGING
While Innsbruck has a number of quaint hotels, here are three that will serve you well.
Hotel Innsbruck, a four-star property, where I stayed, is perfectly located on the edge of the Old Town overlooking the Inn River. From my room, I had a view of the namesake bridge and the magnificent Nordkette mountains rising in the background. The furnishings were Biedermeier style and quite tasteful; however, not all of the rooms have been renovated as such. Last fall, the lobby and restaurants underwent major remodeling and now have a modern Innsbruck theme with conveniences like an Internet cafe with PCs. Doubles range from $100-$112 with breakfast. (Innrain 3, A-6020 Innsbruck; 011-43-512-59868; fax 011-43-512-572280; e-mail office@hotelinnsbruck.com).
The Hotel Europa Tyrol is Innsbruck’s most exclusive hotel and the only one with a five-star rating. The rooms are elegant but don’t have the best views. This is where Queen Elizabeth II, the Rolling Stones and the OPEC ministers have stayed. Doubles range from $130-$225 with breakfast. (Sudtiroler Platz 2, A-6020 Innsbruck; 011-43-512-5931; fax 011-43-512-587800; e-mail hotel@europatyrol.com).
The Weisses Kreuz, a cozy, three-star hotel, is located right in the middle of the Old Town. Mozart stayed here with his father in 1769. Since then, the place has been modernized but still has retained its beautiful wood detailing and charm. Doubles range from $70-$95 with breakfast. (Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse 31, A-6020 Innsbruck; 011-43-512-59479; fax 011-43-512-5947990; e-mail hotel.weisses.kreuz@eunet.at).
DINING
Most of Innsbruck’s restaurants have been family owned for generations. One of the oldest gasthauses in the city, the Weisses Rossl (Kiebachgasse 8), has been serving Tirolean specialties since 1590. A favorite among the locals, this inn serves tasty fare including knodel and schweinsbraten (a bread dumpling, pork roast and sauerkraut; $9.50), Tiroler grostl (sliced potatoes, onions and beef, $8) and (beef bouillon laden with pancake strips, $2.50). For good value, make sure to check out the daily specials, which include two or three courses and usually dessert. But a word of caution: Portions in Innsbruck are hearty.
Another good choice is the Fischerhausel (Herrengasse 8) behind the Hofburg Palace. In its former life, during the mid-1700s, this was the house of the court fisherman. Now, with its inviting beer garden and candlelit bar, it’s a soothing place to dine after a weary day. The schweineruckensteak (pork roast with grilled potatoes and mixed vegetables, $12) or the weinerschnitzel ($11.50) are highly recommended.
BEST TIP
Innsbruck’s best bargain is the All-Inclusive Innsbruck Card, which gives you access to all of the city’s major sightseeing attractions and unlimited use of public transportation. The card, which is sold in 24-, 48- and 72-hour durations (for $15, $20 and $25, respectively) allows entrance to Innsbruck’s major museums and attractions — including Swarovski Crystal Worlds, the Hofkirche, Casino Innsbruck and the Alpine Zoo — and a ride up to the top of the Hafelekar. You can purchase the Innsbruck Card at the Innsbruck Tourist Information office (address below) or at any of the main attractions. Note: This should not be confused with the Innsbruck Club card, which is free for guests at hotels and hostels; it gives access to Innsbruck’s hiking program plus some discounts.
GUIDES AND TOURS
Two-hour city tours leave daily from the main train station at noon and 2 p.m. ($11 adults, $5 children ages 7-10). While these tours visit the various sites, they don’t go inside museums. For more in-depth tours, you can hire a licensed, private guide through the Innsbruck Tourist Information office. At the tourism office, you can also buy tickets for cultural events and transportation, make hotel reservations, cash travelers checks, access the Internet ($3 per hour) or pick up free maps.
INFORMATION
Innsbruck Tourist Office, Burggraben 3, A-6021 Innsbruck; 011-43-512-59850; fax 011-43-512-598507; e-mail info@innsbruck.tvb.co.at; www.tiscover.com/innsbruck (at the top of the Web page is a very small link to click to get an English version).
Austrian National Tourist Office, 212-944-6880; e-mail info@oewnyc.com; www.anto.com.
AND NEAR INNSBRUCK . . .
Swarovski Crystal Worlds
Close and easy to get to, Swarovksi Crystal Worlds, western Austria’s most popular tourist attraction, is only 10 miles east of Innsbruck. (Buses leave from the main train station every half hour.) In 1995, Swarovski, the famous crystal gem manufacturer, built a subterranean chamber of crystal wonders to celebrate its hundredth anniversary. Located near the company’s headquarters in the little town of Wattens (sorry, no factory tours allowed), this adventurous maze of rather bizarre, multi-media exhibits on crystal is mesmerizing.
The museum, housed beneath a grassy hill shaped like the face of a giant with a gushing waterfall spouting from its mouth, contains a variety of cut crystal treasures including the biggest (310,000 carats) and smallest crystals in the world. There’s also a 33-foot-high wall filled with 12 tons of crystal, an enormous crystal dome made of 590 mirrors (creating the illusion of being inside a gemstone) and a room where you can watch simulated crystal rain showers pour forth from the ceiling.
Celebrity touches have been added too. Artworks using crystal gems created by artists such as Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali are interspersed with larger exhibits like a meditation room designed by Brian Eno, the British pop musician.
The gift shop has anything made by Swarovski here (not just and crystal figurines). Swarovski makes handbags, scarves, eyewear and optical items. Late afternoon, around 4 p.m., is a good time to avoid crowds. Crystal Worlds is open daily, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Entrance is free with the Innsbruck Card or about $5 for adults. Children 12 and under are free.
Rattenberg
If you want to see how Austrian crystal is made, head 20 miles east of Wattens to Rattenberg. The “smallest town in Austria,” Rattenberg is the home of the Kisslinger family, known for their lead cut crystal and blown glassware. After making the rounds of this charming, little town, which is also located on the Inn River, you can watch the family at work doing glassblowing, crystal-cutting, engraving and using hand-painting techniques.
From Innsbruck, you can travel to Rattenberg by train.
The Kisslinger Kristall-Glas workshop is open 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. Entrance is free.
Hall
Slightly larger than Rattenberg and perhaps a bit more quaint, Hall was a rich salt town during the Middle Ages. It also gained importance for being the first place to mint the Thaler, a silver coin currency used throughout Central Europe, which inspired the creation of the American dollar. Today, you can visit the Hasegg Castle where the Thaler was minted from 1567 until 1809, when the castle fell into ruin. In the mid-1970s, the mint started production again and now houses a museum where you can mint your own coin. Hall, about 4 miles east of Innsbruck, is also located on the Inn River and can be reached by bus or train.
INNSBRUCK MAIN SIGHTS
– Golden Roof: Innsbruck’s most famous landmark. Completed in 1500 for Emperor Maximilian I, this stunning, gold-tiled balcony was used as royal box to watch jousting tournaments in the square below. Inside is the Maximilianeum museum.
– Hofburg Palace: Fifteenth Century imperial palace of Emperor Maximilian I. Rebuilt in mid-1700s in Rococo style for Empress Maria Theresa, whose husband died here in 1765.
– Tirolean Folk Art Museum: Contains the most important folk art collection in entire Alpine region.
– Hofkirche: Gothic-style church and tomb where Maxmilian had hoped to be buried.
– St. Jakob Cathedral: Rebuilt during early 1700s after being destroyed by an earthquake; considered one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in Austria.
– Triumph Arch: At south end of Maria-Theresien-Strasse. Built in 1765 when Empress Maria Theresa’s son was wed. During festivities her husband, Franz Stephan, died suddenly. One side of the arch symbolizes the joyful aspect of the event, the other the sadness.
– Wilten Basilica: On the site of the ancient Roman town of Veldidena, this 18th Century parish church became a basilica in 1957. Bergisel: Historic site where Tirolean hero Andreas Hofer successfully led battles against Napoleon’s troops in 1809. A monument of him stands on top of a wooded hill ideal for strolling. Nearby are ski jumps from the 1964 and 1976 Olympic Winter Games.
– Schloss Ambras: Inside this Renaissance castle, rebuilt by Ferdinand II for his wife, Philippine Welser, is Austria’s first museum. The Spanish Room, formerly the banquet hall, is now used for concerts. Hapsburg portrait gallery and Welser’s medicinal herb garden also are located on site.
– Grassmayr Bell Museum: Oldest (1599) family business in Austria. Learn how bells are made and watch the intricate process.
– Hungerburg: Best view of the city (via funicular) and one of the most beautiful spots
