Thinking about buying a used motorcycle?
That is probably a good decision–especially if you have never owned a motorcycle before. Buying used saves money on the purchase and keeps you from taking a bath should you decide you are not right for each other.
After all, owning a motorcycle is much different than owning a car. You drive a car, but you must become “one” with your bike. Straddling the engine, your posture and the way you shift your weight influences its behavior. If you are not right for one another, your enjoyment and safety are compromised.
Before buying a bike, research the style that is right for you. Are you planning to diddle in the dirt (a nimble dirt bike) or burn up some blacktop (a screaming sportbike)? Putt around town and run errands (a standard motorcycle)? Ride the roads looking cool (a chromed cruiser) or do one lap of America (a heavyweight tourer)? Or maybe you would like to ride off-road, but need to ride the bike to get there (a dual-sport)?
Consider your height and weight. Sportbikes, for instance, tend to be tall. For the inseam-challenged, this can be dangerous. If you can’t get your feet on the ground when you stop, you will fall down. If you are more the “full-figured” type, on a tiny bike you will be uncomfortable.
You must also consider your riding ability. If you never have ridden before, you would be making a big mistake to buy a heavyweight cruiser such as a Harley-Davidson Fat Boy. Even for experienced riders, a big bike can be a handful.
Also, you probably have some dollar amount that fits your budget.
If, after considering all the above, you are intent on owning a motorcycle, there still are many things to bear in mind.
There are basically two places to buy a bike: from a dealer or an individual. There are pros and cons to each.
Dealers are probably the safest choice. They usually take used bikes as trades from customers buying new machines. The dealer’s mechanics can give the bike a safety check and correct any problems before the bike goes on the floor. But dealers tend to charge more for the same make and model than a private seller.
Dealers generally have a clear title for the bike. An individual may have a bank loan to pay off before the title can be signed over to you.
People have even been known to sell stolen motorcycles. Carefully check the vehicle identification number (VIN) on the title against the VIN plate on the bike, which is usually attached to the frame near the steering head. Also be leery if the title is from out of state–particularly if it is a replacement title. And, compare the manufacturing date on the title to the date on the VIN plate. Motorcycles don’t always change from year to year, so their vintage can be hard to discern.
If you want to save a couple bucks or get more bike for your bucks, consider buying from an individual. The obvious place to begin your search is classified ads.
But don’t overlook excellent other avenues. If you have friends or co-workers who ride, ask them if they belong to a club whose members can be a rich source of used bikes.
Buying from these folks is almost as safe as buying from a dealer. Club members tend to ask a fair price because they generally sell to one another and everyone knows the bikes’ values. They also take pride in, and good care of, their equipment. Since you may join their tribe, they are reluctant to rip you off. It was the first Harley for the guy who bought our former bike, and we invited him to join our HOG (Harley Owners Group) chapter.
Another source of used bikes is the local, independent, mechanical shop. Check the phone book for places that specialize in repairs, especially for the kind of bikes you want.
We have been to some shops that have bulletin boards crammed with pictures of bikes for sale. (The pictures often do the bike a disservice.) This is not to say we would trust every bike, but in general, the bikes were probably serviced at that shop, and you can ask about their reliability and service record.
Bikers tend to congregate at bike shops, and they can be a good resource. Every biker seems to know somebody who is selling a motorcycle.
If you go the classified route, circle the motorcycles in which you are interested. Start doing this several weeks before you plan to buy. Get an idea of the prices being asked. Also note if a particular bike has been listed for many weeks. That may indicate it is overpriced or has major defects.
Beware of exceptionally popular, late-model motorcycles. Some people buy simply to resell them at a profit.
Once you have narrowed your selections, call the owners to set up appointments. This is, depending on your perspective, where the fun stuff or your work begins.
Equip yourself with four important things:
– Some rags
– A flashlight
– A buddy who knows about bikes, especially if this is going to be your first
– Helmet, gloves and other riding gear
Unlike cars, bikes cannot easily hide their foibles. Do a walk-around to make sure the important stuff (such as lights, mirrors and such) isn’t missing. Test the lights (high and low beam), turn signals, hazard flashers, brake lights (hand and foot lever) and horn. Look for missing covers and fairings.
Though you may detect leaks by the stains on the ground, get on your hands and knees and look underneath. Using the flashlight, look for repair welds on the frame where you are also likely to see touch-up paint. If some parts don’t match from side-to-side, chances are they have been replaced due to damage. Take a few steps back and see if the bike looks straight from rear to front. Do not buy a bike that has been crashed.
“It’s never been dropped,” is probably the second most told lie. Though the bike may not have been seriously crashed, it quite likely has been dropped–at low speed or even standing still. We have never owned one that has not kissed the ground–at least gently.
You will be able to find evidence such as minor scratches in the saddle bags (like our current bike) or on other protruding parts such as mirrors, engine guards, foot pegs and so on. The scratches tend to be random. These should not deter you, and you are bound to add a few of your own. Beware, however, of severe damage evidenced by deep gouges or scratches in engine and transmission components.
When we sold our last bike, we gave the buyer the former front fender–proof of cosmetic damage only. We also gave him the original saddle and other parts we had upgraded, as well as the shop manual and spare spark plugs.
Unlike some neighboring states, Illinois has no safety inspection so there won’t be an up-to-date inspection sticker. The burden is on you to check the brakes, lights and so forth before taking a test ride. Use your flashlight to examine the thickness of the brake pads. There should be a minimum of one-eighth-inch on each. Check the master cylinders for proper fluid level.
Use the flashlight to peer in the gas tank. You should see no rust or corrosion. If the tank is dented, it is probably from the handlebars when the bike fell.
Check the clutch lever for smooth operation. Start the engine and, with the brakes applied, slowly release the clutch to see that it begins to engage. If you let it engage even more, the engine will begin to stall. This is a good sign.
Check the tires. They should have at least two-thirty-seconds of an inch of tread depth in the center–usually more at the shoulders, which get less wear. Make sure they are brand-name tires. The seller may have bought some cheap rubber to look good, but you would be risking too much to trust it. Bike tires are expensive–usually $200 to $300 a pair.
Make sure the wheels have no dents or bent or broken spokes. You can usually tell if the wheels are bent by spinning them by hand and watching for wobble.
Most bikes have chain drives, though some, such as BMW, have shaft drives, and others, such as Harley-Davidsons, have belt drives. Inspect the chain for wear by tugging on it at the back of the rear sprocket. Examine the sprocket teeth; if they look like shark’s teeth, the sprocket is worn. Check belts for fraying and missing or chunked teeth.
Check all fluids. When you look in the tank, the gas should be clear or slightly tan, not dark. The oil should be the color of honey, or a bit darker, not black. If it looks milky, there is water in the oil. If the bike is liquid cooled, the coolant should be transparent, and bright green from antifreeze.
The brake fluid should be clear and amber, or in the case of Harleys, purple. Since they have separate transmissions, remove the inspection cover on Harleys to check the transmission oil level and condition. Make sure all fluid levels are adequate.
If everything meets your approval, start the engine. Consider it a good sign if the engine is cold. Many sellers warm the engine to make starting easier and mask problems.
Before you start the engine, make sure the oil pressure light comes on. The neutral light also should glow with the transmission in neutral. Check the turn-signal indicators.
You may have to use the choke to start it, and the engine should sound smooth and even. Don’t be alarmed if you can hear the mechanical sounds of the engine. That’s normal. But beware of loud valve tapping or clatter. Blip the throttle. The engine shouldn’t backfire. To verify its operation, use the kill switch to stop the engine.
Even if you don’t need a friend’s expertise, take one along for moral support and the voice of reason. Also your friend can take the test ride if you are not a rider.
But most owners are reluctant to let friends, let alone strangers, ride their motorcycles. Don’t expect to take a test ride if you can’t prove you are an experienced rider by producing a license with motorcycle certification and/or a Motorcycle Safety Foundation card. Most sellers will agree to a money-back guarantee if you find problems after you buy, and ride, the bike.
During the test ride, make mental notes of how well the brakes, clutch and throttle operate. Bring it up to highway speed then firmly stop (or slow) to check the brakes. Find some smooth road to make sure the tires are not flat-spotted or out-of-round. The bike should not feel loose or wobble or vibrate. The transmission should shift smartly without any “false neutrals.” Don’t forget to check reverse on a Gold Wing.
Finally, if you have entered the “gotta have it” zone, ask the seller to show you the service history. Receipts are great. At the very least, the seller should be able to tell you what was serviced and when. Most sellers will respond honestly to direct questions.
Besides comparing the asking prices in the classifieds, there are other good sources. The Kelley Blue Book folks publish a motorcycle values edition. The American Motorcyclist Association offers its Official Motorcycle Value Guide at $36 for an annual subscription of three issues. Motorcycle Consumer News publishes used-bike prices twice a year. Also check your local library or the Internet.
Though you may not want to delay your gratification, you can make your best deal in the fall, as winter approaches.
The owners may have had their fun or may need some extra cash for Christmas. Or, they may have no place to store the bike over the winter.
In the spring and summer, when demand peaks, sellers have the upper hand.
