Fluorescent shop lights are one of the best and least-expensive ways to light up the dark areas of a home. They are excellent for workshops, of course, but are also fine for basements, laundry rooms, garages, home offices–any spot where appearance is not too important.
A shop light, sometimes called a utility light, can be installed anywhere near a grounded electrical outlet, using the cord and plug that is included with each light, or it can be wired into an electrical junction box and operated from a wall switch like any other light.
A basic shop light consists of a metal housing and reflector that is slightly more than 48 inches long and from 6 to 12 inches wide. The housing holds two 48-inch fluorescent tubes (usually not included). Two tubes of 40 watts each can light up a small room, with an especially bright area of light directly under the reflector.
Shop lights are sold at most home centers and electrical-supply stores. Prices range from about $10 to about $50 each. In general, lights that cost more have better-quality construction and will perform longer and better without problems.
Most lights require some assembly. This is usually a fairly simple matter, and step-by-step assembly drawings are included. Typical assembly involves clipping the ends and tube sockets into the housing, which holds the light’s electrical components. The cord must also be attached, if the light is to be plugged into an outlet, and the reflector is attached to the housing.
Shop lights are generally hung from the ceiling by two short chains attached to brackets that clip into the housing. At the ceiling end, the chains are attached to hooks screwed into the ceiling.
The ceiling hooks are generally not included and should be carefully selected and installed to make sure the light will be firmly held. Screw-in hooks are sold at most home centers and hardware stores. Choose open-end hooks, so the chains can be slipped over the open ends. For best support, the hooks should be screwed into ceiling joists. Drill a pilot hole, slightly smaller than the diameter of the hook shank, into a joist for each hook. Twist the hooks deeply into the joists with pliers.
The light’s housing also can be screwed directly to ceiling joists. Use round-head screws with washers under the screw heads for extra support. Again, make sure the light is firmly attached.
One of the problems with most shop lights is the lack of any switch on the lights. If the plug-in cord is used with a light, the usual way to turn it on and off is to insert and remove the plug at the outlet. This can cause premature wear on the plug and cord.
A solution for the switching problem is to install a so-called line switch in the cord. A line switch costs less than $5 and is easy to install. The switch is shaped like a flat football and clips over the cord at any convenient point. Installing the switch requires removing a short section of insulation from the cord and cutting the cord’s black wire, which is attached to terminals inside the switch. The switch should be installed with the cord unplugged, of course. Line switches include installation instructions.
When buying a line switch for a shop light, be sure to buy a switch large enough to fit over the light’s cord, which holds three wires and is rather thick.
Shop lights are often amazingly durable and trouble-free. If one or both tubes in a light flicker, get dim or buzz, try twisting the tubes a bit in their sockets to make sure there is good contact. This will often restore full light.
If a shop light continues to perform poorly after checking the tube contact, determine whether the tubes or the light is at fault. If there is a convenient similar light that is working properly, remove one or both tubes from the “good” light and try them in the balky fixture. If the balky fixture performs well now, the tubes are at fault; if not, the fixture itself is probably defective.
