I’ve caught my share of pint-size crappies and bluegills, and a smelly carp or two, while growing up lakeside in Wisconsin, but nothing close to the giant army of trout and salmon I had heard roamed the waters of Lake Michigan off Racine, just 1 1/2 hours from Chicago.
“It’s been an odd year for fishing,” said Nathan Michalowski, who served as our first mate on the Striker, a fishing charter my boyfriend, Jason, and I booked one recent Saturday afternoon.
“We’ve been catching a lot of salmon now, which traditionally don’t come through to spawn here until mid-September,” Michalowski said. “Now’s the time for lake trout.”
Having fished off land was one thing; traveling on my maiden voyage 5 miles from harbor into 120-foot-deep blue waters was another. While no angling experience is necessary for these charter trips, the thought of getting seasick — we noticed whitecaps on the lake driving in — and visions of hurling overboard set in. Our stellar crew, however, quickly reassured me.
“If anyone gets too sick, just let me know and we’ll turn around,” said longtime, local skipper Tom Keefe, a retired history teacher who has been navigating the waters here for two decades. “This trip is supposed to be fun,” he said.
Often considered the No. 1 fishing port in Wisconsin, Racine stretches along Lake Michigan to the east, while leafy, wooded terrain borders rolling farmland dotted with red and white barns to the west. Over a mile of sandy beach area and acres of park land line Racine’s salient shoreline.
Racine’s expansive harbor, decorated with handsome lakefront homes, spills out a New England-sentiment, especially Wind Point Lighthouse, billed as the oldest and tallest lighthouse standing on the Great Lakes.
To say that folks enjoy fishing recreationally in Racine is an understatement; fishing almost seems innate here, year-round and intertwined with the town, even if you don’t participate in the sport yourself.
It sometimes seems as if there are more boats than cars here. Charter boats sporting names such as Rod ‘n’ Reel, Happy Hooker and Reel Fun are Racine’s version of personalized license plates, and some restaurant will always have an all-you-can-eat fish fry.
Racine’s waters are teeming with salmon and trout, specifically lake, brown and rainbow trout, and chinook, coho and Atlantic salmon. More than 20,000 pounds of fish were caught this year during Salmon-a-rama, an annual July festival and fishing contest where thousands of hard-core fishermen come to town, vying to hook the “big one.” This year’s top chinook salmon, weighing in at nearly 30 pounds, was caught by Racine native Steve Varga.
Aug. 17-20, the In-Water Boat Show, another popular lake festival takes over town at Reefpoint Marina downtown. The show features hundreds of the latest sport, performance, sailboat and yacht models that visitors can board.
With more than 1,000 boat slips, Reefpoint is the largest, privately owned marina on the Great Lakes.
Fishermen here often say, “We fished the hills for trout.” Lake Michigan around Racine has a clay bottom structure with reefs, shoals and steep underwater drops and “hills,” that makes it ideal for holding and sustaining a steady population of game fish, our first mate Michalowski told us.
These offshore underwater hills, located in deep, cold waters, allow fish to change their surrounding temperatures by moving only a few hundred feet.
“That’s why no one can beat us for lake trout,” he said proudly as our charter headed down the Root River, which begins in Milwaukee before winding its way down to Racine.
The river can be credited with much of Racine’s fishing success. When spring rains overflow the river in March and April, rainbow trout, also known as steelhead, abound. Come mid-May, hoards of coho salmon begin their annual migration up the river.
“In the spring, it’s not uncommon to catch 30 small, coho salmon in two hours,” Michalowski said.
While nautical life may dominate in Racine, there’s also an architecturally impressive side to it.
Racine’s South Side is its historic district. Woven among Greek Revival architecture are a number of Frank Lloyd Wright Prairie Style homes, including the 1905 stucco and wood Hardy House (1319 Main St.).
Wright also designed Wingspread (33 E. Four Mile Rd.), the last and the largest of his prairie houses. Completed in 1939, it was built as a private residence for H.F. Johnson of the S.C. Johnson household and consumer products company. The four-winged, pinwheel-shaped house is on a 30-acre property with a wooded ravine, ponds and lagoons. Today, the house is a conference center with free tours available on weekdays by appointment only (262-681-3353).
Another Wright design is the Johnson company headquarters — the S.C. Johnson Administration Building (1525 Howe St.), which was also erected in 1939. He called the windowless, glass and red brick building “an architectural interpretation of modern business at its best.”
For light, Wright experimented with 43 miles of Pyrex glass tubing inside and outside. To prevent employees from feeling boxed in and constricted, he studied the workflow of office workers and even designed the company’s furniture. Tours available by appointment only on Thursday at 11 and 1:15 p.m.; Friday at 9:15 and 11 a.m. and 1:15 and 3 p.m. (262-260-2154).
At the Racine County Heritage Museum (701 S. Main St.), we found that some handy items were invented here: In 1883 before his invention was used to make creamy milk shakes, William Horlick, founder of Horlick Malted Milk Co., developed the process to dehydrate milk in order to ship baby food without spoiling.
Steven J. Poplawski wanted to find an easier way to make soda fountain drinks. In 1922, he put a spinning blade at the bottom of a cup, an idea that eventually helped market the Osterizer blender, invented by Frederick Osius.
My favorite appliance was invented in 1927 by architect John W. Hammes, who devised the world’s first food waste disposal system. Eleven years later he founded In-Sink-Erator Manufacturing Co. in town. These inventions are exhibited at the museum, which also houses a local history research center.
Racine’s waters may be full of fish, but its land is full of Danes. One of the largest Danish communities in the country resides here among the town’s population of 85,000.
“Just mention West Racine and everyone will refer to it as `Little Denmark,'” said Craig Geisler, who, along with his wife, Alice, runs the Lochnaiar Inn, a gorgeous and comfortably courteous bed-and-breakfast we stayed at during our weekend jaunt.
“The Queen of Denmark even came here,” Geisler said.
He said that of the three Danish bakeries in town — Larsen’s, Bendtsen’s and O&H — the latter is his darling for its delectable Seven Sisters coffeecake stuffed with almonds and custard. That, along with shots of espresso, should have been incentive enough to get us up for the morning fishing charter (7 a.m. to noon), but to no avail.
While we took the afternoon charter, we would highly advise booking the early trip. Morning charters tend to bag more fish, and the lake is characteristically calmer.
Just over an hour out, miles away from the harbor, we did snag a couple hard-fighting lake trout — the first weighing in at 5 pounds and the second at 7 1/2, both of which are under average. The average weight for lake trout is 10 to 15 pounds; the state record for the species is, yes, 47 pounds.
Both our trout were caught using spin and glows, but according to our first mate, iridescent blue flies also work well.
For better tasting and cleaner trout meat, Michalowski advised us to extract the oils from the flesh by soaking the fillets in heavily salted ice water for at least a few hours prior to cooking it.
Unfortunately, it was just when the fish started biting that the nearly 5-foot waves slapping up against the boat caught up with us. “Yeah, expect it to be a little rough,” Michalowski said. “Especially if the winds are coming in from the northeast.”
It was while nursing our queasy stomachs that we just missed hooking the “Grand Poobah” of salmon — easily a 25-pound chinook that was toying with our bait, according to Michalowski.
While we may not have landed that lunker, the relentless roller coaster waves put any possibility of bagging another trophy-size salmon on hold. The only landing we were ready for was port.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for two
Lodging (two nights) ……. $160
Meals …………………. $100
Tours and entertainment …. $260
Gas, tolls ……………… $30
Total …………………. $550
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Racine is about 80 miles from Chicago. Take Interstate Highway 94 North to Wisconsin Highway 20 East (exit 333) toward Racine/Waterford.
DINING
Here are some eateries and bars we visited:
Helen & Craig’s Bistro (340 Main St.) was once a corner drugstore; now it’s a moderately priced, Italian/French restaurant. Chef Joe Minneci whips up a killer Seafood Stew stocked with shrimp, mussels, sea bass and salmon ($18.95), and chicken piccata, breasts cooked in a lemon caper white wine stock ($13.95).
The Chartroom Restaurant & Bar (209 Dodge St.) at the Pugh Marina is chock-full of simple Wisconsin favorites: Sheboygan bratwurst ($4.50), battered cheese curds ($3.75) and the state’s version of an eggroll — a Pizza Straw — pepperoni, marinara and cheeses wrapped in a spring roll and deep-fried ($5.50). Heartier entrees include broiled crabmeat-stuffed shrimp ($9.50) and the Friday all-you-can-eat whitefish fry ($8.95).
Docks Waterfront Restaurant (2 Christopher Columbus Causeway) at the Reefpoint Marina is a popular spot and a decent place to stop for a Black Angus beef Dock’s Burger ($5.50) and a beer.
LODGING
While hotels abound in and around Racine, here are a few that overlook Lake Michigan or the Root River:
The Lochnaiar Inn on the Lake (1121 Lake Ave.; 262-633-3300) is a three-story English Tudor house that is within walking distance of downtown but sits in seclusion on a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan. Restricted smoking area, fireplace and Jacuzzi rooms, children over 12 welcome, $80-$175.
The “fisherman’s” Riverside Days Inn (3700 Northwestern Ave.; 262-637-9311) is unique in that its backyard lies beside the part of the Root River that is considered one of the prime fishing spots in Racine. Fisherman’s rates are 30 percent off the regular price — just bring fishing gear and fishing license. The inn provides a fish-cleaning facility. Whirlpool suites, outdoor heated pool, picnic and barbecue areas, $59-$199.
Radisson Inn Harbourwalk (223 Gaslight Circle; 262-632-7777) is a contemporary hotel right on Lake Michigan and off of Racine’s historic Main Street for shopping and restaurants. Marina-view rooms with whirlpool, suites, heated indoor pool and spa, hotel restaurant and pub, $125-$220.
FISHING
Fishing Charters of Racine (800-475-6113) claims to have the largest and most experienced group of fishing charter captains in southeastern Wisconsin. Charter captains and their first mates provide fishing gear and will clean, bag and ice your fish — even divulge some favorite seafood recipes. No experience necessary; crew will help you catch fish. Charters run April through mid-October, and prices for a boatload of anglers range from $260 to $390 for 5 hours; 8- and 10-hour charters are also available. Tipping is customary.
Here are some charters that can be booked through Fishing Charters of Racine: Captain Tom Keefe, a 24-year veteran of Lake Michigan waters, and first mate Nathan Michalowski can take up to four people on the Striker. Thirty plus-year veterans Peter Mauer of Reel Fun and Mel Both of Ron ‘N’ Reel charters both take a group of six out at a time.
You’ll need a two-day sport fishing license and Great Lakes Salmon/Trout Stamp, available on the boats for $10. If you have a Wisconsin fishing license, you will still need the stamp, also available on the boats. Bring a large cooler with ice to transport your fish home. Wear soft sole shoes, bring rain gear, a hat, sunglasses, camera, and food and drink (no glass bottles or jars) if desired. To prevent getting seasick, charters recommend taking motion sickness medication at least two hours before the trip. (Make sure you get a non- or less-drowsy formula.)
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Great Lakes Sailing Charters (262-637-4001) is perfect for people who prefer to simply sail — and not fish — on Lake Michigan. Owner John Gauthier captains a 34-foot Grampian sailboat dubbed Noah’s Ark. Charters begin at $75 per hour (minimum two hours); children under 12 are free. Ask about discount family rates and dinner cruises. May through September.
Wind Point Lighthouse in North Racine (Lighthouse Drive off Four Mile Road) reminded us of a historic Cape Cod lighthouse. Catch great views of Lake Michigan here, and if you feel like going in the water, beautiful North Beach awaits not far away on Hoffert Drive off Michigan Boulevard.
Shoop Park golf course (County Trunk G; 262-681-9714) is Racine’s Pebble Beach — at least in scenery. Play the lush, nine-hole course while taking in colossal lake views. Also, try Johnson Park golf course(6200 Northwestern Ave.; 877-TEE-IT-UP), a championship, wooded 18-hole course with bent grass fairways, and Washington Park golf course (2801 12th St.; 262-635-0118), nine holes smack in the middle of town.
INFORMATION
Racine County Convention and Visitors Bureau, 14015 Washington Ave., Racine, WI 53177; 800-272-2463; www.racine.org.
Find out where the fish are biting from the Department of Natural Resources weekly phone summary of outdoors conditions at 608-266-2277. An expanded summary is also updated weekly on the DNR’s Web site, www.dnr.state.wi.us.
