Though the glory days of riverboat travel have passed, the Victorian-style
Twilight is a tribute to the grand, floating palaces of the Mississippi River
and the prosperity of their 50-year reign.
The 150-passenger, 156-foot-long boat looks as if it drifted from the pages
of Mark Twain’s “Huckleberry Finn” or “Life on the Mississippi.” Based on
photos of early steamboats, the diesel-powered riverboat was conceived by its
captain, Dennis Trone, an Annapolis graduate and naval architect, who runs
round-trip two-day cruises between LeClaire, Iowa, and Galena, Ill.
Trone, who also designed the Julia Belle Swain, a boat popular with fans of
paddle wheelers, said he grew up near the Illinois River when the Eagle Packet
Co. was still running steamboats between St. Louis and Peoria. His father
shipped cattle via steamboat until World War II.
But the grand riverboats, with their rich decor and romantic history, were
what captured Trone’s imagination.
“This kind of riverboat is strictly an American thing,” Trone said. “It
also typifies an era.”
Built in 1986 specifically to accommodate two-day cruises with overnight
stays along the river, the Twilight is a favorite of bus tours and senior
citizen groups–and now, my family.
At 8:30 a.m., on a Sunday, my parents, my boyfriend and I boarded the
Twilight and were shown to our assigned dining table in one of the three
indoor lounges where a continental breakfast of pastries, juice and coffee
waited. Although we didn’t have problems with crowding on our trip, if we
would go again–especially during the Twilight’s busy fall color season–we
probably would stake out reclining deck chairs first and forego the breakfast.
There were only 54 passengers on our cruise, but we could imagine deck space
at a premium with a full load.
After breakfast, we explored the ornate lounges, which Trone said were
modeled after the Great Republic, a sidewheeler that ran from St. Louis to New
Orleans in the 1860s, near the end of riverboats’ dominance on the river.
Outside, we settled into deck chairs just as the Twilight’s calliope
sounded our presence on the river.
Though we didn’t have any takers on our trip, musicians brave enough for a
public performance are welcome to play the calliope, Trone said.
We spent the morning reading the paper, relaxing and enjoying the scenery
as it passed. As summer haze turned to on-and-off summer showers, Trone
explained to passengers the history of the river, its towns and its people. He
also explained the mechanics of the Mississippi River’s lock and dam system
and the monstrous swing bridges at Clinton and Sabula, Iowa. Unlike more
traditional draw bridges, the swing bridges pivot on their axes, enabling the
Twilight’s tall smoke stacks to pass.
By lunch time we’d arrived at Lock & Dam No. 13 near Fulton, Ill., where we
became the tourist attraction for landlubbers who’d come to watch the locks in
operation. As we entered the lock, the gates closed behind us and water pumped
in, raising the boat to the level of the dam upstream. The front gate opened,
and we were on our way, headed for one of the broadest “pools” of open water
on the Upper Mississippi at 4 1/2 miles wide.
Here, the wildlife put on a show. Cormorants, herons and egrets paused
between fishing excursions on the partially submerged logs, sandbars and
shrubby islands. Freshwater pelicans flew in formation, gliding over the
shallow stretch of river. And fledgling eagles strengthened their wings,
preparing for their first flights in a few days.
Next on the itinerary was a celebrity appearance by Mark Twain, portrayed
by Bob Anton, a Peoria school teacher and river buff. Twain entertained us
with tales of his youth and of his nearly four years as a steamboat pilot on
the Mississippi. He also read a fitting passage from “Huckleberry Finn.”
As the steep, golden, limestone cliffs of the Mississippi Palisades came
into view on the east shore, we got ready for a dinner of baked chicken breast
and steamed vegetables. (The next night’s dinner–prime rib and gooey dark
chocolate pie–was the best meal of the trip, and from what one crew member
said, a far cry from the days when meatloaf was served several times a week,
before the new chef took over the kitchen.)
About 7 p.m., we arrived at Chestnut Mountain Resort in Galena. Since even
the shallow hull of the Twilight couldn’t navigate the marshy dock area, we
climbed onboard the 2th Ferry (get it?), which shuttled us to the base of the
resort. From there we could take the bus or hop on the ski lift to the lodge,
where we checked into our rooms.
With the evening ahead of us, we had our choice of summertime activities:
miniature golfing, swimming in the indoor pool, soaking in the hot tub and
sledding down a 2,050-foot Alpine slide. We opted not to try the slide,
though. Within five minutes we saw one boy tip his sled off the track when he
reached the bottom and one girl holding her hand over her eye as she rode
down.
After a round of miniature golf, we celebrated my mom’s birthday with
chocolate cake that we’d ordered ahead of time and that the resort staff
graciously picked up from a downtown supermarket that wouldn’t deliver. Then
we spent the rest of the evening in the lounge, listening to Satin Jazz, a
great vocal, guitar and sax trio that belted out golden age favorites while a
tremendous lightning storm lit up the bluffs outside. My parents said they
would make the trip to the resort just to hear them again. The group plays
Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays during the cruise season.
The next morning we hurried through breakfast in order to catch the bus to
Galena at 8:20. In Galena, we were given choices on how to spend the next few
hours: a walking tour of Gen. Ulysses S. Grant’s home, a driving tour of
historic homes and landmarks, or shopping.
Since my family had been to Galena and seen Grant’s home before, we chose
to walk around on our own. While locals took advantage of Main Street’s
benches and sipped coffee al fresco, we window-shopped and enjoyed the quiet
before the hordes of other tourists arrived. I can’t say I’ve ever enjoyed
Galena more.
Before returning to the bus, we stopped in the Old Market House State
Historic Site, which is featuring a Grant exhibit through October. Personal
items belonging to the president and first lady include gifts from their world
tour (1877-79), wedding presents and campaign memorabilia. The exhibit also
includes family photos, paintings and newspaper illustrations from Grant’s
years in Galena.
Back at the ferry, we rejoined the few folks who had opted out of the
Galena tours. Then we shuttled out to the open water where the Twilight was
waiting for our trip back to LeClaire. As we approached, the calliope heralded
our return and we looked forward to another day on the Mississippi.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for two:
Two-day cruise including room … $500
Miniature golf ……………….. $6
Birthday cake ………………… $7
Gasoline ……………………. $40
Total ……………………… $553
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Head west on Interstate Highway 80 to the Quad Cities (approximately 175
miles from Chicago). After crossing the Mississippi River, take the first
exit, U.S. Highway 67, north to LeClaire, Iowa. In LeClaire, turn right on
Wisconsin Street. Parking at the boat landing is free.
PRE-TRIP LODGING
Because the Twilight riverboat departs at 8:30 a.m., you may want to stay
overnight before the cruise. The information packet mailed with your
confirmation and trip receipt includes a list of recommended hotels and
bed-and-breakfasts in the area.
ON THE CRUISE AND OFF
Each person is allowed one small bag that may be brought on the boat and
one medium suitcase that will be inaccessible until it’s transported to your
room at Chestnut Mountain Resort. Casual clothes, comfortable shoes and a
light jacket or sweater are recommended. We also brought a deck of cards,
books, sunscreen and hats.
Snacks, iced tea and coffee are available for free on the boat; there is a
bar and a gift shop.
The Twilight travels about 70 miles each way on the Mississippi, which can
take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours, depending on the direction of the current
and how much time it takes to pass through the lock and dams. We were delayed
by two hours when returning to LeClaire while we waited for a barge to pass
through and reassemble at Fulton’s Lock & Dam No. 13.
INFORMATION
River Cruises, P.O. Box 406, Galena, IL 61036; 800-331-1467 or
815-777-1660; www.riverboattwilight.com. The cost is $250 per person double
occupancy, $265 per person single occupancy, $140 for children ages 10-14 and
$110 for children under 10. Price includes the two-day cruise, three meals per
day plus snacks and overnight accommodations at Chestnut Mountain Resort.
Tipping is not expected. The Twilight departs on Sundays, Tuesdays and
Thursdays from Memorial Day weekend through mid-October.
Chestnut Mountain Resort, 8700 W. Chestnut Rd., P.O. Box 6328, Galena, IL
60136; 800-397-1320 or 815-777-1320.
Quad Cities Convention & Visitors Bureau, Iowa Office, 102 S. Harrison St.,
Davenport, IA 52801-1807; 800-747-7800 or 309-788-7800; fax 309-788-7898;
www.quadcities.com/cvb/.
Galena/Jo Daviess County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 101 Bouthillier St.,
Galena, IL 61036; 888-8-GALENA; fax 815-777-3566; e-mail cvb@galena.org;
www.galena.org.
