The stretch of Harlem Avenue from Interstate 55 south for several miles is heavily peppered with the major fast-food chains. That makes Pak Bombay Palace a bright spot on the dining landscape.
True, it exists in a building once home to a fast-food eatery, but the owners–brothers Amjed and Tariq Mahmood–have done a nice job of transforming the place. Tables have that bistro touch, with white-paper squares topping fabric tablecloths. Fabric napkins are a soft rose color. Indian and Pakistani crafts accent the walls.
The best part? Instead of that fast-food smell of fries, there is the fragrance of bread baking in a clay oven, of myriad spices, of chopped fresh herbs.
The menu boasts vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, served in substantial portions at affordable prices. The most expensive items on the menu are Pak Bombay platter ($15; a sampling of five entrees) and shrimp biryani ($10), a spiced rice dish.
Though we didn’t try either of the priciest items, we were quite happy (and happily stuffed) after a meal that included shrimp masala ($8). The entree arrived with about a dozen shrimp bathed in a spicy sauce of finely chopped tomatoes, eggplant and cilantro. One feaster in our party decided the sauce reminded her of Italy’s olive-tomato caponata or eggplant-tomato ratatouille.
Before we got to that course, though, we indulged in vegetable samosas ($1.49 for two), which arrived at the table with two sauces: one, ruby red and tamarind flavored; the other, pastel green mint. The two plump, deep-fried pastry pockets encased a savory mix of seasoned potatoes, studded with green peas and bits of tomato.
Maybe we should have tried the red lentil soup or mixed vegetable soup ($2.49 each), because we were unimpressed with the chicken corn soup ($3), a bland version reminiscent of an egg drop soup.
We weren’t disappointed with the choices we made from the tandoor, a clay oven. Grilled and stewed items were selected with help from our knowledgeable waiter, who also asked how spicy we wanted our food. (Had we visited at lunch, an all-you-can-eat buffet at $7 would have been an option.)
Of the eight vegetable entrees, including a fresh homemade cheese, spinach and tomato dish called palak paneer ($5) to dal makhani (lentils in butter sauce; $5), we chose aloo ghobi ($5), a tasty stew of cauliflower chunks, potatoes and spices as well as aloo palak ($4), a spicy and delicious spinach-potato pairing.
Lamb, chicken, beef and seafood dishes make up the bulk of the menu. Lamb korma ($7) was our waiter’s favorite and a winner for us as well. Lots of lightly spiced curry gravy–the better to enjoy the tandoor-baked breads–featured chunks of meat (with an occasional bone), which we savored spooned over rice. The chicken tandoori ($8) proved a substantial order, the two thigh-leg portions roasted nicely, the surface tinted the slightest pink from a seasoning sauce embellished with food coloring.
The remainder of the lamb, chicken, beef and seafood entrees range from dishes such as chicken tikka (cubes on a skewer; $8) to curries, meats prepared with yogurt, or rubbed with spices.
Try at least two of the breads. The sada naan, a plain traditional bread ($1.25), arrives hot and puffy, the size of small pizza. The roghni roti ($1.25) is like a huge, whole-wheat tortilla.
Next time we’ll save room for dessert. Ordering mango lassi (a yogurt drink; $2.95) and chai tea (milky tea with a sprinkle of cinnamon; $1.50) and soft drinks (there is no alcohol available), left no room.
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Pak Bombay Palace
(3 forks)
8059 S. Harlem Ave.
Burbank
708-237-0700
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V, D, DC
Noise rating: Conversation-friendly
Wheelchair accessible
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
