It takes some nerve to open a rib place in Chicago. The diners here are a critical audience, especially when it comes to macho cuts such as steaks, chops and ribs. It is a given, then, that Freddy’s Ribhouse, which opened in April in the booming retail area west of Clybourn corridor, would offer a competitive selection of ribs, steaks and chicken in the gut-busting portions people have come to expect.
The main dining room is a typical mix of dark wood, comfy booths and low lighting. Pop music plays in the background but at a comfortable level that permits conversation; that alone makes it unusual among recently opened restaurants.
Settle in with a selection of beers, including some Goose Island labels ($3.75), or a fine house-label root beer ($2.50) served in the bottle but with a chilled mug that’s so frosty it’s almost too cold to handle at first.
Kick things off with a selection of appetizers that are plenty filling on their own. Potato skins ($4.95) come stuffed with bacon bits, Cheddar cheese, pickled jalapeno peppers and sour cream, yet still don’t have any particular punch. Far better selections include the spinach and artichoke dip, rich and creamy but loaded with fresh spinach and fresh flavor. Also worthwhile are the chicken fingers ($4.95), generous hunks, not strips, of chicken rolled in a light and crunchy breading; they are addictive, especially with the accompanying honey mustard dipping sauce. Chimichangas ($4.95) offer some of the restaurant’s barbecue flavors with fillings of chopped beef or chicken enlivened with the house barbecue sauce.
Sandwich offerings range from a button-busting half-pound hamburger ($6.25) to a respectable, if slightly dry, pulled pork ($6.95). The shreds of slow-cooked pork aren’t the juiciest we’ve tried, but they do nicely with a dash of barbecue sauce and a topping of coleslaw.
The slaw is a good interpretation, nicely balanced between sweet and tangy, not too creamy and topped with roasted peanuts. It comes as a side with many of the entrees, but can be ordered separately for $1.65.
When it is time for ribs, give two in particular a try. Lots of places brag that their baby back ribs slide off the bone and these ($15.95 for a full rack) do indeed; they are so tender, in fact, it’s hard to imagine how they were holding on to the bone in the first place. Also terrific are the jumbo beef ribs ($16.95) a platter holding two pounds of smoked ribs, so meaty they could pass for chops. The incredibly moist, well-marbled meat is a pleasure to cut through and chow down.
Both exceed our usual budget, but they make a meal and a half, especially with the complimentary pan of fried, seasoned “MoJoe” potatoes and coleslaw. The combination platter of pork spareribs and a quarter of a barbecued chicken delivers a better bargain at $9.95.
Other main courses include broiled Lake Superior whitefish ($12.95), barbecued half chicken ($8.95) and marinated grilled chicken with grilled pineapple ($9.95).
It is all a messy business, but the fluffy terrycloth napkins presented here do a good job of cleaning up.
Room for dessert? There probably won’t be; the portions here are such that you will likely be groaning before the last finger is licked. But if you’re still interested, options are as simple as a dish of vanilla ice cream ($2.25) or cheesecake with seasonal fruit topping ($4.25).
Service is friendly and fast, but there was a mistake on one visit. A to-go order of carrot cake ($4.25) turned out to be a slice of cheesecake; good thing I wasn’t hungry by that time anyway.
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Freddy’s Ribhouse
(3 forks)
1555 N. Sheffield Ave.
312-377-7427
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri., 4 p.m.-midnight Sat., 3-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Wheelchair accessible
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
