The brief note from a reader came scrawled sideways on a menu: “You’ve got to try this new place–fresh, inexpensive, plentiful food!”
With encouragement like that, we head to Ravenswood to try Teresa’s Cocina.
A small, 21-seat storefront, the place would be easy to miss were it not for the outdoor tables topped with umbrellas directly in front. The tiny space inside has been spruced up with wooden chairs painted an intense red to contrast with the black-and-white tile floor. Posters of chili peppers line the walls, indicating that spice may be one of the characteristics of the food here.
But our first dish, enchiladas in a “fiery guajillo sauce” ($6.75), taste not overly spicy. In fact they are just right, with a bite but no burn. And other entrees caused no tears, just a pleasant tingling in the mouth.
The menu lists only eight entrees, all typical of Tex-Mex cuisine except for an intriguing “south of the border gyros” ($5.75) that the menu described as meat, cucumber, tomato and lettuce in a jalapeno, cilantro and sour cream sauce–all stuffed in pita bread. Unfortunately, it is unavailable for us to try one evening. It won’t be the only item missing in the kitchen.
Diners receive a choice of fillings with each entree: blackened chicken, steak, picadillo (ground beef), Santa Fe, cheese or grilled vegetables. But only the chicken and steak are available one night; each offers very nice flavors, but the cubes of meat are too dry in the enchiladas. Maybe a little of that guajillo (a dark red dried chili) sauce inside the enchiladas would have helped. Most entrees are paired with mildly seasoned beans and rice, which help create a generous plateful of food. Salsa and chips arrive first to the table. The salsa appears to be freshly made, with cubes of ripe tomatoes, chopped onions and jalapenos and a sprinkle of cilantro. Very nice. The chips, on the other hand, coat the fingers with grease.
Specials written on a blackboard change daily. One special teams grilled eggplant cubes and mushrooms in an empanada crust ($5.95). The filling is delicious, but the fried crust gets soggy quickly.
Beef fajitas ($7.95) sizzle with a mess of sliced peppers and onions, all fragrant, sweet and smoky from the grill. The beef, seasoned nicely, includes only a few strips that need some chewing effort. Flour tortillas on the side look like they too have spent some time on the grill, adding to their flavor.
On another visit, the Cuban black bean soup ($1.50 cup, $3 bowl) on the menu is disappointingly absent. “It’s too hot for soup,” the owner says with a shrug.
For spice aficionados, a side of “asthma sauce” ($1) promises to “take your breath away.” We declined the opportunity.
More cooling options include salads, unless you opt for the jalapeno dressing. We try it on the Caesar salad ($3.95 or $5.25 with chicken or steak) and love the slight “bite,” but we also avoid the sliced jalapenos that hide among the chopped greens. Super-ripe tomatoes and black olives dot the salad and the whole is topped with crispy tortilla strips. It provides enough for two to share.
Teresa’s features only occasional special desserts such as cheesecake or flan for about $3.50. It has no liquor license, but you can bring beer or wine. Or try the refreshing, freshly squeezed lemonade or limeade ($1.75), either of which makes an ideal partner with the flavorful spicing of Teresa’s hearty food.
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Teresa’s Cocina
(2 forks)
1820 W. Wilson Ave.
773-728-0702
Cards: D, M, V
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Wheelchair accessible
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
