At Campiello on 3rd Street, every seat at the outdoor bar is taken. The San Pellegrino flows like nectar, and the wait for a lunch table on a Saturday lasts longer than a Bloody Mary.
Over on 5th Avenue, at Yabba Island Grill, every spot under the breezy outdoor canopy is filled. The sidewalks are hopping with shoppers popping into galleries and boutiques and private banks and stock brokerages before stopping for a brew at McCabe’s pub.
Up on U.S. Highway 41, a trio of new theme restaurants is drawing sports fans — Shula’s steakhouse, at the new Hilton; Ditka’s, for casual fare; and Sam Snead’s, a neighborhood eatery a bit down the road.
And at the Philharmonic Center for the Arts — the Phil, as it is called — the calendar calls for a summer performance by the Doobie Brothers and the November opening of a $14.5 million art museum domed by glass crafted by renowned artist Dale Chiluly.
No, Naples isn’t just your Ohio grandma’s sleepy little wintertime retirement burg any more. The rocker-bound elderly have given way to active seniors who spend their days on the golf course, or fishing, or playing tennis, or volunteering. A Baby Boom crowd has moved in, too — both as permanent residents and as part-timers who have inherited winter homes and condos, or are simply edging into early semi-retirement.
But don’t think Naples has gone to the self-impressed and the trendoids. This is still a welcoming, family-friendly town where the rich wear shorts and the famous — such as hoopster Larry Bird and novelist Robin Cook — keep a low profile.
Think Long Island’s Southhampton — chic in an unassuming sort of way.
“The key thing about Naples was that it was quiet yet it had a lot of cultural advantages. And good dining,” says Jack Kelly, 47, CEO of a Washington, D.C., lobbying firm, who bought a small house in a Naples golf community over options in North Carolina, South Carolina, Key West and South Florida.
“It’s simple and picturesque, yet not plastic.”
In the six years since Kelly and his wife, a congressional senior staffer, bought their Naples hideaway, they’ve found plenty of like-minded professionals.
“I think there are younger retirees. People are planning earlier. As a result of economics and type of work force, higher-income earners have an intensity to them,” says Kelly. “They work hard and play hard.”
In fact, Naples was the fifth fastest-growing metro area in the years 1990-98, according to Census Bureau statistics provided by the local economic development council. Only about 25 percent of the population of 227,000 is now older than 65 — though many of the winter residents, who number about 76,000, are seniors.
One result, say locals and regular visitors, is more places to stay, dine, stroll, sip martinis, languish over java and just hang out year-round. Naples has grown so much that new hotels — such as the Hilton — are forced onto land blocks from the beach. And the action is continuing to the north, where strawberry fields are being replaced by residential communities, inns and tony shopping-and-dining enclaves all the way to Bonita Springs.
New options include:
– Boutique hotels, such as the Inn on Fifth, which opened three years ago steps from McCabe’s Irish Pub and Yabba; Trianon, with inns near Tin City in downtown and in Bonita Springs; and Hotel Escalante, a European-style inn that opened recently near the corner of 5th and 3rd.
– Additional shopping venues, such as The Promenade in Bonita Springs, a Mediterranean-style village of gardens, waterfalls and upscale boutiques.
– Elegantly designed full-service spas. The Naples Beach Hotel has just unveiled an airy 22,000-square-foot clubhouse and spa adjacent to its golf course; here, hotel guests and those in the public can sign up for services ranging from an 80-minute neuromuscular therapy massage to a 50-minute rehydrating milk and honey body wrap. At the 5-star Ritz-Carlton, construction is under way on a 25-million, 51,000-square-foot spa due to open early next year. The Inn on Fifth, which opened three years ago, also offers a wide array of services at its Total Body Salon & Spa. The Registry Resort also boasts a 5,500-square-foot health club and spa.
– Top-grade golf facilities. The Registry Resort recently opened the Naples Grande golf club, open to hotel guests and club members, featuring a Rees Jones course. The Ritz-Carlton plans to open a 295-room golf resort on the Greg Norman-designed golf course Tiburon, just north of Naples, in late 2001.
And don’t forget dining. The list of grazing grounds opened in the last several years includes Yabba, McCabe’s, Armadillo’s Cafe, Chops City Grill, Zoe, Pazzo! and Campiello’s.
Don’t stop with restaurants and bars. At the Naples Players Sugden Community Theater on 5th Avenue, cutting-edge theater is performed in its black-box stage along with more mainstream productions in its 326-seat central hall. And in November, the Phil opens the Naples Art Museum, a 30,000-square-foot facility designed as a collecting institution. Already, the museum has acquired a collection of 276 contemporary American paintings spanning the years 1900-1955 and an extensive collection of ancient Chinese art. The museum building, adjacent to the current Phil space, is designed to be simple and elegant, says Daniels, with marbled interiors and a 90-foot glass dome by Dale Chiluly.
Though the Phil is located a few miles to the north, much of the activity in Naples these days is centered in the historic downtown, in the areas along 3rd Street South and on 5th Avenue. Here, revitalization efforts of the past 10 years have taken on new energy, with efforts spearheaded by Joan Fleischmann Tobin, whose parents, Julius and Dorette Fleischmann (yes, the margarine people known for their glamorous style), first developed the 3rd Street South corridor in the late 1940s.
Umbrella-covered tables spill onto cafe terraces. New shops have opened, featuring chic housewares (such as Le Cherche-Midi and Sean Johnson) or casual clothing in fine fabrics (such as Tommy Bahama and J. McLaughlin); old favorites have spruced. A concierge — housed in a charming little booth beneath a sprawling banyan — help visitors. Little plazas and gardens — adorned with fountains from Tobin’s own collection — create a restful, welcoming feeling. Shops are now open at least some evenings and on Sundays. “When you have younger people coming, it changes the demand,” says Sukie Honeycutt, a partner in several downtown area restaurants. When she first arrived in Naples 20 years ago, patrons required formal settings and service. The interest in casual options has grown so dramatically that last year she and her partner doubled the size of their coffee and wine shop, Tony’s Off Third, adding imported cheeses and Ciabello ice cream, available on the Gulf Coast only at Tony’s.
“We’re finally becoming cosmopolitan.”
But that’s not to say snooty. Naples is a community of layers. Just as the age range has widened, so has the economic base. Residences range from the mid-60s to millions of dollars, from cozy apartments to sprawling single-family homes — sometimes within the same, worry-free gated community. And one of the most popular pastimes is shopping at the two dozen or more consignment shops, where the wealthiest pass along fine furnishings, antiques and designer clothing.
Best of all, much of the familiar remains. The beaches of downtown are still lined with private homes. A crowd still gathers each evening on the Naples Pier, near 3rd Street South, to watch the sun sink into the Gulf of Mexico. People are still polite and friendly. The Naples trolley still toddles about on its endless on-and-off-as-you-like tours. Michelbobs rib house still packs in the fall and winter crowds for its gut-busting $7.25 Sunday brunch. The region’s natural attractions are easily accessed by canoe, pontoon boat and boardwalk at preserves such as the 10,000 islands, Nature Conservancy and Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary, where a new 11,000-square-foot Audubon Center will open in early December.
Says Kelly, the Washington lobbyist, “The toughest decision of the day is whether to go to sunset tonight.”
Reason enough to come here.
WHERE TO STAY
DOWNTOWN
Inn on Fifth: Located in the thick of 5th Avenue amid restaurants and galleries, the Inn on Fifth offers historic charm and a great location plus fitness center and spa. 888-403-8778
Trianon: Upscale atmosphere with classic French decor near Tin City (several blocks from the dining scene, and a bit further than that from the beach.) 800-859-3939.
Olde Naples Inn: A cheery collection of ’50s-style apartments linked by beautifully maintained gardens; located midway between the shopping districts on 3rd Street South and 5th Avenue. 800-637-6036.
Hotel Escalante: This European-style retreat in downtown has concierge service, transportation to the beach just a few blocks away and charging privileges at some of Naples best restaurants, plus the latest technology. 877-485-3466.
ON THE WATER
Naples Beach Hotel: This family-owned perennial favorite on the beach has recently added an exquisite spa with all the treatments imaginable, housed in a new building that includes meeting spaces, golf shop, bar and restaurant overlooking the golf course.
The lobby of the hotel still reveals decades of change — from the colored panel wall of the ’70s to beamed wood ceilings and rock pillars. Guest rooms have been updated, a deli-bakery-general store added; the raspberry tea at the beachside HB’s restaurant remains as memorable as ever.
More than 5,000 orchids adorn the property; growing classes and tours are offered. Children’s programs here are extremely popular, as are golf and tennis facilities. 800-237-7600.
Edgewater Beach Hotel: Sophistication mixes with a breezy tropical style on the beach a few miles north of downtown. The upscale marbled lobby spreads to two wings where every room has a view from its gingerbread-railed balcony. Between, a garden of palms is home to bar, casual restaurant and pool. 800-821-0196.
Tides: This ’50s style motel on the beach has been spruced up into a cheerful, casual inn with a comfortable pool area. Screened lanais are attached to each room; suites are available and popular with families. Located near the Edgewater Beach Hotel. 800-438-8763.
Registry Resort: An upscale favorite featuring balconies, boardwalk through the nature area leading to the beach and beach transport. Guests can use the new Rees Jones-designed Naples Grande golf course; golf packages available. 800-247-9810.
Ritz-Carlton: Naples’ only 5-star resort offers luxurious Newport ambience on the beach, with gourmet dining and children’s programs, Gulf views, golf privileges at the Greg Norman-designed Tiburon course and fitness center. 888-856-4372.
Vanderbilt Beach Resort: This cheerful, family-oriented motel on the beach is just north of the Ritz Carlton. The casual eatery, the Turtle Club, is a popular hangout. All rooms offer Gulf views. Suites and efficiencies available. 941-597-3144.
OTHERS
Hilton: This classy new hotel is not, alas, located on the beach. But it is adjacent to the Waterside Shops (Saks Fifth Avenue is the anchor) and is home to Shula’s Steakhouse. An excellent option for business travelers. 941-430-4900.
Trianon at Bonita Springs: A branch of the downtown hotel, with classic French styling, located adjacent to the Promenade shops. 941-948-4400.
INFORMATION
Naples Area Chamber of Commerce, 941-263-1858; naples-online.com. Or, Tourism Alliance of Collier County, 800-688-3600; www.visit-naples.com
J.W.
