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The Grill on the Alley

909 N. Michigan Ave.

It is not always spelled quite this way (gravlax is another version) but it’s hard to believe there would be a better interpretation, even in its native Sweden. This appetizer, from one of Chicago’s newest steakhouses, is as delicate as they come. Beautifully moist smoked salmon, as pink as a good peach, gets perches on toasted slivers of rye, and is topped with a creamy dill sauce and topped with the sheerest round of red onion. It’s $11.75.

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Bite back: If you have a favorite dish, write us at Good Eating, 435 North Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611; e-mail messages may be sent to ctc-goodeating@tribune.com.