I don’t know how long he’ll stick around, but as long as Kevin Shikami is cooking at The Outpost, that restaurant should be on your short list of places to visit soon.
Shikami, for many years chef at the late Jimmy’s Place and the opening and closing chef at con fusion (with a stint in New York in between), has made no secret of his desire to be a restaurant owner; indeed, Shikami and his brother have been negotiating for a River North property for some time. But for the foreseeable future — say, six months, anyway — he’s at the Outpost, which is good news for all concerned.
The Outpost is a quirky Wrigleyville hangout, a 70-seat, rough-hewn room with exposed brick and ductwork, well-worn oak floors and a copper-painted tin ceiling. Wide, comfortable armchairs pull up to good-sized tables topped with white tablecloths and — gak — brown paper. (I happen to hate brown paper, and here’s another reason why: On one visit the busboy overpoured one of our water glasses and the overflow scooted across the nonabsorbent paper, as though shooting down some invisible flume, toward my companion, who had to maneuver quickly to keep dry.)
Shikami’s Asian-accented food dovetails nicely with The Outpost’s loose concept, which is a homage to the old South Pacific trade route. And though Shikami’s cooking is complex and sophisticated, it does not come as a premium price; seven of the eight entrees are priced at $20 or less. (If Shikami ever fulfills his River North dream, you won’t find too many $18 entrees there; enjoy them here while you can.)
The appetizer tasting plate consists of a “sesame stick” of fried spring-roll skin filled with a paste of pureed sesame-seed and tahini; dried cherry-filled wontons whose black-pepper accents are balanced with a sweet chile dipping sauce; vegetable spring rolls seasoned with mint, cilantro and crushed peanuts; and a handful of edamame beans seasoned with togarashi, a citrusy, Japanese spice blend.
Also on the menu is ostrich, seared rare and sliced thin, with a petit salad dressed with orange vinaigrette; below the ostrich is a beet and balsamic reduction, and to the side is a hunk of aged goat cheese coated with crushed pistachio. A special of crab cake (with a bonus of a couple of grilled shrimp on the side) is served with chipotle mayonnaise and a couple of sprinkles of cilantro vinaigrette.
Excellent pizzas have firm crusts that hold up well to a barrage of toppings, such as the goat cheese, roasted tomato, onion, grilled mushroom and basil pesto version we sampled.
Risotto shows up from time to time. One visit, a special entree featured risotto with chanterelle mushrooms, Parmesan cheese, spinach, roasted tomatoes and prosciutto; another time there was coconut-flecked risotto with fresh corn, which supported a terrific piece of roasted salmon over a Thai-style curry sauce.
The duck composition is a star entree, consisting of roasted breast with a light touch of orange reduction accompanied by a ginger-scented confit of leg and thigh; below the duck is a compote of wild rice, tart cherries, caramelized almonds and mushrooms. Roasted pork chop, bearing a light crust of breadcrumbs with onions, chestnut and a touch of truffle oil, sits in a roasted-garlic and mushroom reduction alongside a pile of pureed potatoes.
Daniel Micheals’ desserts match Shikami’s menu in inventiveness. What’s billed as a poached-plum strudel looks like a spring roll, cut on the bias, but this is a phyllo-dough roll filled with pureed plum, served with a scoop of ginger ice cream. There are also “maki rolls” of tropical fruit pieces rolled in sweet coconut rice. More straightforward dishes, including a fig and brown-butter tart with creme fraiche ice cream, and a chocolate-brownie ice cream sandwich with mint syrup, are impressive as well.
The Outpost is home to one of Chicago’s most interesting wine lists, full of lesser-known, intriguing bottles (heavy with New World influence) that are priced to sell. Better still, the well-trained servers can discuss these wines knowledgeably, and the by-the-glass list is sizable.
The Outpost has a free parking lot in back, with room for a few cars. Obey the signs carefully, because some spaces are off-limits.
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The Outpost
(star)(star)
3438 N. Clark St.
773-244-1166
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$22
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Free parking lot
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
