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NEW=A review added since the last Dining Guide

Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.

* = Good

** = Very Good

*** = Excellent

**** = Outstanding

Fork reviews are based on one visit by a Tribune staffer.

1 fork = Good

2 forks = Very Good

3 forks = One of the best

4 forks = Don’t miss it

Credit card key

A American Express

DC Diners’ Club

DS Discover

M MasterCard

V Visa

DOVER STRAITS

(3 forks)

1149 Golf Rd., Hoffman Estates

847-884-3900

Sister property to the Mundelein original, this is a comfortable, polished restaurant with a menu full of tried-and-true specialties.

RECOMMENDED: Baked clams, oysters Rockefeller, Grecian red snapper, flounder Wellington.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $10-$25

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

PORTER’S OYSTER BAR

(2 forks)

446 Virginia St., Crystal Lake

815-477-0340

Take a left at the entrance and there’s a string of elegant dining rooms; take a right and there’s a long bar featuring Chicago blues on Fridays and Saturdays and jazz Sundays. Despite slow service, seafood, steaks and sandwiches are pretty good.

RECOMMENDED: Oysters Jarlsberg, grilled swordfish, creme brulee.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $13.95-$35.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

PHIL SMIDT’S

(3 forks)

1205 N. Calumet Ave.,

Hammond, Ind.

800-376-4534

This 450-seat, Northern Indiana mainstay has been drawing Chicagoans to its pan-fried perch and frog legs specialties for decades. One taste and you’ll know why.

RECOMMENDED: Perch, frog legs, baked salmon, walleye pike, gooseberry pie.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $11.50-$46.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

SOUL/SOUTHERN

CITY

ARMY & LOU’S

**

422 E. 75th St.

773-483-3100

Army & Lou’s is a South Side treasure. The place is beautiful, thanks to new carpeting, upholstery and a soothing red-and-cream color scheme. Walls are adorned with African and Haitian art. Yet prices remain low; entrees start at about $6, and average about $10. Ribs are very good, and the fried chicken is arguably the best in town.

RECOMMENDED: Mustard and turnip greens, fried chicken, barbecued ribs, fried catfish, peach cobbler.

OPEN: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon., Wed.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $5.95-$19.95.

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended on weekends

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; small parking lot adjoins building.

DIXIE KITCHEN & BAIT SHOP

(3 forks)

5225 S. Harper Ave.

773-363-7723

825 Church St., Evanston

847-733-9030

With its weathered trim, motley collection of wooden kitchen chairs and old porcelain-enameled stoves, the Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop could be at home along a Mississippi bayou.

RECOMMENDED: Fried green tomatoes, peach-glazed chicken wings, blackened chicken breast salad, New Orleans-style oyster po’boy, gumbo, jambalaya.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $5.95-$10.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

OTHER: Parking lot

GLADYS’ LUNCHEONETTE

(3 forks)

4527 S. Indiana Ave.

773-548-6848

Gladys’ embodies the modern manifestation of traditional African-American cuisine, commonly called soul food.”

RECOMMENDED: Chicken smo-

thered in rich brown gravy, spicy barbecued rib tips, sweet potato pie.

OPEN: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Tue.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $5.50-$7.35

CREDIT CARDS: Not accepted

OTHER: Parking lot

NORTHWEST

BILOXI GRILL

***

313 E. Liberty St., Wauconda

847-526-2420

The Greenery cofounders David and Catherine Koelling run this rustic charmer on the shore of Bangs Lake, serving regional Southern dishes that have no equal in this part of the world. The main dining room and outdoor deck offer

splendid lake views.

RECOMMENDED: Sauteed oysters, seafood gumbo, barbecued shrimp, red snapper, berry cobbler.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $8.95-$23.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended on weekends

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTHWESTERN

WEST

SEDONA GRILLE

(3 forks)

Indian Lakes Resort

250 W. Schick Rd.,

Bloomingdale

630-529-0200

This out-of-the-way South-western dining room, tucked inside a resort complex, is worth seeking out for its fine food, lovely atmosphere and friendly service.

RECOMMENDED: Chicken-brie quesadillas, pork with diablo sauce, grilled salmon.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $11.95-$27.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

AMARILLO ROADHOUSE

(3 forks)

1924 Indianapolis Blvd., Schererville, Ind.

219-322-1142

Everything is Texas-sized in this Western-themed spot. The bar has live music and dancing on Saturday nights. But it’s the beef and barbecue that ropes in diners.

RECOMMENDED: Barbecue ribs, Dallas strip steak, sweet bourbon salmon, Amarillo iced tea.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $7.95-$16.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted Sun.-Thurs.

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; banquet facilities.

SPANISH

CITY

CAFE BA-BA-REEBA!

***

2024 N. Halsted St.

773-935-5000

One of the best places in Chicago to sample tapas, in a convivial if noisy atmosphere. A recent menu expansion has added more entre options, including several new versions of paella, but the wide assortment of tapas dishes, ranging in price from $2.95-$7.95, remains the big draw. During the summer, the 89-seat outdoor garden (with retractable canopy) is one of the most popular destinations in the city.

RECOMMENDED: Ternera asada, Spanish omelet, paella Valenciana, suckling pig, profiteroles.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $10.95-$15.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

NOISE: Conversation-challenged

OTHER: Valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

EMILIO’S TAPAS

***

444 W. Fullerton Ave.

773-327-5100

The dining rooms are comfortable and spacious, decorated with lace curtains and colorful tile murals. The menu is virtually identical to that of Emilio Gervilla’s original restaurant in Hillside.

RECOMMENDED: Tortilla espanola, stuffed eggplant, grilled seabass with pistachio butter, grilled quail with sherry, pan perdido.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $6.95-$13.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible (separate entrance)

WEST

EMILIO’S TAPAS BAR RESTAURANT

**

4100 W. Roosevelt Rd., Hillside

708-547-7177

This small restaurant has a rustic, cozy Spanish atmosphere with wonderful, satisfying food. Emilio’s menu lists more than 18 different tapas (Spanish for “little dishes”) along with daily specials.

RECOMMENDED: Garlic potato salad, spicy chicken wings, paella, sangria, rice pudding.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $14.50-$18.50

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted; accepted for 6 or more Fri.-Sat.

NOISE: Conversation-challenged

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

MESON SABIKA

***

1025 Aurora Ave., Naperville

630-983-3000

312 S. Happ Rd., Northfield

847-784-9300

The name means “house on a hill,” and here you’ll find excellent tapas and other Spanish specialties. The original Naperville location really is a house on a hill; the Northfield spot, which features essentially the same menu, is in Northfield Village Center.

RECOMMENDED: Roasted veal with raspberry vinaigrette, Spanish piquillo peppers stuffed with crabmeat, cream of leek soup, profiteroles.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun, lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $3.50-$12

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

LA TASCA

(3 forks)

25 W. Davis St.,

Arlington Heights

847-398-2400

Innovative touches and diverse flavors abound in this lively tapas restaurant.

RECOMMENDED: Grilled eggplant with seafood salad, champinones rellenos, rice pudding.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

ENTREE PRICES: $3-$15

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

STEAK

CITY

CAPITAL GRILLE

**

633 N. St. Clair St.

312-337-9400

High-quality steakhouse, part of an East Coast chain, whose contemporary clubby decor, polished service, first-class beef (dry aged on the premises), and award-winning wine list have made it instantly popular with local businessmen and conventioneers — meaning that reservations are a must.

RECOMMENDED: Baby lobster, steak au poivre, veal chop, filet hash (lunch only), Key lime pie.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $16.95-$29.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

CARMICHAEL’S CHICAGO STEAK HOUSE

**

1052 W. Monroe St.

312-433-0025

Acres-of-oak decor, vintage posters, Prairie-School accents and garter-sleeved waiters give Carmichael’s a generations-old appearance. Despite the touristy look, however, this is a comfortable restaurant with very good, Angus Beef steaks.

RECOMMENDED: Shrimp de Jonghe, barbecued shrimp, porterhouse al forno, bone-in ribeye, triple pork chop, bourbon bread pudding.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun, lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $15.95-$49.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Complimentary valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

CHICAGO CHOP HOUSE

***

60 W. Ontario St.

312-787-7100

Touristy touches like the cornball postcard on each table and the ever-lit, year-round Christmas tree outside seem comfortably in place at this steakhouse, one of the city’s best.

RECOMMENDED: Steaks, shrimp de jonghe

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $15.95-$28.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Valet parking

ELI’S THE PLACE FOR STEAK

**

215 E. Chicago Ave.

312-642-1393

A Chicago classic, Eli’s offers a quiet, almost stately atmosphere, understated service and superior steaks. And, of course, the cheesecakes are a national treasure. The cocktail lounge is a great place to unwind.

RECOMMENDED: Shrimp de jonghe, steaks, sauteed calf liver, potato pancakes, cheesecake.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $18.95-$34

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

ERIE CAFE

**

536 W. Erie St.

312-266-2300

Creature comforts are excellent in this lofty River North restaurant; the dining rooms are spacious and open, restrooms are spotless and smoking and nonsmoking rooms are far apart. Steaks, lamb chops and prime rib are all first-rate; the kitchen is less consistent with seafood options.

RECOMMENDED: Mussels marinara, garbage salad, lamb chops, T-bone steak, prime rib, cheesecake.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

ENTREE PRICES: $13-$34.50

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended on weekends

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking.

GENE & GEORGETTI

***

500 N. Franklin St.

312-527-3718

As an old-fashioned “real guy steakhouse, this place is unsurpassed. A see-and-be-seen restaurant of another age, Gene & Georgetti attracts a loyal and regular clientele, who come to view the politicians and enjoy the massively proportioned, impeccably prepared steaks.

RECOMMENDED: Strip steak, lamb chops, calf liver, garbage salad, cheesecake, spumoni.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

ENTREE PRICES: $14-$38.75

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Complimentary valet parking; free parking lot one-half block east of restaurant; wheelchair accessible.

GIBSONS

**

1028 N. Rush St.

312-266-8999

Where once Mister Kelly’s stood, you’ll find a very capable, very popular steakhouse notable mostly for its large portions, attractive interior and knowledgeably opinionated staff.

RECOMMENDED: Chopped liver, spinach salad, onion rings, filet mignon, barbecued ribs, strawberry shortcake, chocolate hazelnut tart.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $21.75-$33

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

NOISE: Conversation-challenged

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

HARRY CARAY’S

**

33 W. Kinzie St.

312-828-0966

10233 W. Higgins Rd., Rosemont

847-699-1200

Legendary baseball broadcaster Harry Caray died in 1998, but his spirit lives on in this bustling place, an Italian steakhouse with sports-themed decor and an old-fashioned charm personified by white-jacketed, eagerly accommodating service. The award-winning wine list is a distinct plus. The Rosemont location opened in August 1999.

RECOMMENDED: Grilled baby octopus, lamb chops oreganato, chicken Vesuvio, Sicilian veal chop, tiramisu.

OPEN: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $11.95-$32.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

NOISE: Conversation-challenged

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

MIKE DITKA’S RESTAURANT

**

Tremont Hotel

100 E. Chestnut St.

312-587-8989

The name has changed (previously it was Iron Mike’s Grill), but everything else is the same at the namesake restaurant for former Bears coach Mike Ditka. This is a predictably masculine place with sports-memorabilia decor, second-floor cigar lounge and a menu of steaks and chops with sly insider references (Grabowski sausage, the Fridge burger). It’s more sophisticated than it sounds, actually, and the food typically is very good. Steer clear when there’s a big convention in town, though.

RECOMMENDED: Oyster shooter, DA pork chop.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat., Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $10.89-$32.89

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

MAGNUM’S STEAK & LOBSTER

**

225 W. Ontario St.

312-337-8080

777 E. Butterfield Rd., Lombard

630-573-1010

1701 W. Golf Rd., Rolling Meadows

847-952-8555

Despite the macho name, this city steakhouse and its west-suburban siblings are sophisticated and civilized. Decor is stylish, service is knowing (if a bit by-the-numbers) and steaks are first-rate. Do be prepared to deal with noise.

RECOMMENDED: Ribeye steak, Kansas City strip steak, lamb chops, veal chop.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch (suburbs only) Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $13.95-$85

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

NOISE: Bring earplugs

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

MILLENNIUM

**

832 W. Randolph St.

312-455-1400

In the heart of Randolph Street’s convergence of trendy restaurants sits this unabashedly classic steakhouse, which emphasizes prime, house-aged beef.

RECOMMENDED: Grilled crab legs, spicy calamari, porterhouse, smoked prime rib, Chocolate Churchill.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

ENTREE PRICES: $18-$29

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended on weekends

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO

***

1050 N. State St.

312-266-4820

You won’t find a better steak than the thick, beefy beauties cooked here. The attractive dining room does a good job of overcoming its windowless basement locale; tables are close together, but it’s a convivial crowd. Civilized touches include excellent service, a very good wine list and classy ambience. The most expensive steakhouse in town, but worth every penny.

RECOMMENDED: Steaks, veal chop, baked potato, dessert souffle for two.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $19.95-$31.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

OTHER: Discount parking with validation

THE PALM

**

Swissotel Chicago

323 E. Wacker Drive

312-616-1000

Big steaks and bigger lobsters, served with utter lack of pretension and fuss, are what you’ll find in this chain’s Chicago chapter, ensconced in snazzy digs, including an outdoor patio.

RECOMMENDED: Crab cakes, N.Y. strip steak, lamb chops, Key lime pie.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $14-$35

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

**

431 N. Dearborn St.

312-321-2725

933 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook

847-498-6889

This large chain’s two Chicago-area outposts can hold their own with the veterans of the local steakhouse scene. Comfortable surroundings and pampering service are perks, and the steaks — especially the porterhouse, which is sized for two or three diners — are excellent. Appetizers are a bit scrawny, but they’re hardly necessary, as the steaks are humongous.

RECOMMENDED: Tenderloin, porterhouse, veal chop, Caesar salad, potatoes au gratin, chocolate mousse cheesecake.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $14.95-$32.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

SMITH & WOLLENSKY **

318 N. State St.

312-670-9900

This impressive steakhouse sits at the base of Marina City. Part of a New York chain, it offers succulent, aged-on-premises steaks, hefty lobsters dusted with cayenne pepper and a monstrous twice-cooked pork shank. The light-filled dining room is decorated with American art; an outdoor patio overlooks the Chicago River. The downstairs Wollensky’s Grill offers smaller-portioned steaks and keeps late-night hours.

RECOMMENDED: Crabcakes, lobster cocktail, Wollensky salad, sirloin steak, Angry Lobster, apple tart.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $17.50-$35

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

TAVERN ON RUSH

*

1031 N. Rush St.

312-664-9600

Stick to the steaks and you’ll be fine at this always-packed steakhouse, the latest serious restaurant to venture back to the now-booming Rush Street area. The beef is first-rate, but inconsistency plagues other dishes. The look is traditional steakhouse, and the balcony windows overlooking the street are a clever touch.

RECOMMENDED: Pepper-crusted ahi, pizzas, porterhouse steak, NY strip, Key lime pie.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $11.95-$75

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

NOISE: Conversation-challenged

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

EJ’S PLACE

(2 forks)

10027 Skokie Blvd., Skokie

847-933-9800

E.J. Lenzi, who helped open Erie Cafe in Chicago, has opened this North Woods Lodge-y steakhouse on the North Shore. White tablecloths and a cozy fireplace are pluses, but the restaurant is very noisy.

RECOMMENDED: Garbage salad, swordfish, chicken Vesuvio, New York strip steak

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $14.50-$33.50

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

NOISE: Conversation-challenged

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking.

PETE MILLER’S STEAKHOUSE

(3 forks)

1557 Sherman Ave., Evanston

847-328-0399

You’ll find serious steaks and seafood at this handsome restaurant, which has an adjacent jazz lounge.

RECOMMENDED: Fried calamari, baked portobello mushroom, burger (in the lounge only), filet mignon.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $17-$50

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

WEST

GIANNOTTI’S STEAK HOUSE II

(2 forks)

17W400 22d St., Oakbrook Terrace

630-833-2700

Like its Norridge sibling, this Italian steakhouse is traditional, comfortable and invariably packed.

RECOMMENDED: Stuffed artichoke, pork chops, prosciutto-stuffed veal.

OPEN: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $11.95-$27.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

MONTCLAIR CHOP HOUSE

(2 forks)

1401 Nordic Rd., Itasca

630-773-2750

The fine-dining room of the Nordic Hills Resort is sophisticated and cozy, and the menu offers more variety than the name suggests.

RECOMMENDED: Coconut shrimp, crab cakes, filet mignon, portobello primavera.

OPEN: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $14.50-$24.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

BOGART’S CHARHOUSE

*

17344 Oak Park Ave., Tinley Park

708-532-5592

18225 Dixie Hwy., Homewood

708-798-2000

Popular mid-priced steakhouse is packed nearly all the time, and no wonder: Hefty, well-grilled steaks come with salad, potato and other goodies, and prices are in the teens. Opt for one of the chicken dishes, and the bill comes down even more. Appetizer options are stuck in the O70s and desserts are from a local bakery, but chances are good you won’t have room for them anyway. Decor consists of pictures and murals of Bogey in various poses corny but cute.

RECOMMENDED: Buffalo wings, porterhouse steak, Casablanca steak.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $10.99-$24.99

CREDIT CARDS: A, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Not accepted

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

GINO’S STEAK HOUSE

(2 forks)

16299 Wallace Ave., Harvey

708-331-4393

A sibling of Millennium in the city, Gino’s is one of the best steakhouses in the suburbs.

Service can be spotty, but the steaks and other dishes transcend minor glitches.

RECOMMENDED: Stuffed mushrooms, filet mignon, flourless chocolate cake.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $15-$35

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

JACK GIBBONS GARDENS

(2 forks)

14700 Oak Park Ave., Oak Forest

708-687-2331

Affectionately known simply as Gibbons, this modest-looking steakhouse has been serving superior beef for 75 years.

RECOMMENDED: Prime rib, filet mignon, shrimp de jonghe.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $10.95-$22.95

CREDIT CARDS: M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted Sun.-Fri.; accepted for 10 or more Sat.

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

KRAPIL’S

(2 forks)

6600 W. 111th St., Worth

708-448-2012

A rustic-looking, old-fashioned steakhouse where the placemat is also the menu (prices aren’t listed), raffia-covered chianti bottles serve as candlesticks and steaks come in big, bigger and enormous sizes.

RECOMMENDED: Appetizer combo, filet mignon, Krapil’s parfait.

OPEN: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $8.25-$49.50

CREDIT CARDS: A, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended for parties of six or more

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

MR. BENNY’S STEAK & LOBSTER HOUSE

(2 forks)

20857 S. Cicero Ave., Matteson

708-481-5800

This clubby steakhouse has been around long enough to be in style, out of style, and back in again. Prime beef is the attraction, though fish and seafood are handled well. And the place is cigar-friendly.

RECOMMENDED: Prime rib, blackened walleye, petite filet.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

ENTREE PRICES: $13.95-$34.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

CITY

ARUN’S

****

4156 N. Kedzie Ave.

773-539-1909

The finest, most upscale Thai food you’ll ever experience is available at this Northwest Side jewel, a picture-perfect, cleanly elegant space decorated with beautiful artwork. Arun Sampanthavivat’s food is artistically noteworthy, too, beautifully presented and stunning in its complexity and exotic ingredients and flavors. There is no set menu; Arun’s features a Chef’s Design Menu, a multi-course dinner selected by Arun after consulting patrons’ preferences, dietary requirements and spice tolerance. The wine list is small, but every bottle is carefully chosen for its affinity to Thai flavors.

OPEN: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: Prix-fixe dinner $75 (12-course tasting menu).

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended

OTHER: No smoking; wheelchair accessible.

NEW

Mr. Thai: The House of Noodles and Rice

(3 forks)

3811 N. Ashland Ave.

773-244-9300

Mr. Thai is an acquaintance worth making. This spiffy, attractive, family-run restaurant is relatively new on the scene, but the efficient service and nicely turned out dishes belie its youth.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun. lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $5.25 -$7.

CREDIT CARDS: A, D, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

THAI CLASSIC

**

3332 N. Clark St.

773-404-2000

This attractive, spotless restaurant, just a few blocks south of Wrigley Field, rises above the crowd of Thai restaurants by virtue of its well-prepared, scrupulously fresh food and its charming, contemporary decor. The restaurant offers a $9.95 buffet from noon-10 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

RECOMMENDED: Golden cups, steamed mussels, tom yum talay, Thai Classic soup, orchid chicken, seafood treasure, coconut ice cream.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $5.95-$11.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: BYOB; wheelchair accessible.

NORTH

JASMINE THAI CUISINE

(2 forks)

242 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook

847-205-1414

Unpretentious and intimate, Jasmine blooms with crisp and complex flavors, adroitly using the fresh-picked herbs, fruits, vegetables and meats that are hallmarks of the tropical cuisine of Thailand.

RECOMMENDED: Mus Sa Mon beef curry, spicy chicken with lime, Tod Mun seafood rounds, custard.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Fri.

ENTREE PRICES: $7.50-11.50

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended for large parties

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

NOODLE GARDEN

(2 forks)

1241 Chicago Ave., Evanston

847-332-2775

The less familiar the dish, the better at this north suburban spot; when in doubt, you’ll get good advice from your waiter.

RECOMMENDED: Tom yum soup, yellow curry chicken, pad woon sen, pad talay.

OPEN: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $7.95-$10.95

CREDIT CARDS: M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; carryout and delivery.

RUBY OF SIAM

(2 forks)

1125 Emerson St., Evanston

847-492-1008

Startling, off-the-beaten-track Thai dishes are available here; the trick is sifting through the 117-item menu to find them.

RECOMMENDED: Crying Tiger, lime chicken, pla koong, kaoman somtum kaiyang.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

ENTREE PRICES: $6.95-$16.95; $6.75 lunch buffet Mon.-Fri.

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

TASTY THAI

(2 forks)

Hawthorn Village Commons, Ill. Hwy. 60 west of Milwaukee Ave., Vernon Hills

847-367-1980

A solid, family-run restaurant featuring basic Thai dishes with some interesting twists.

RECOMMENDED: Pad Thai, yellow curry, angel wings.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch buffet Mon.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $6.95-$9.95

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

CITY

JULIE MAI’S LE BISTRO

*

5025 N. Clark St.

773-784-6000

This charming Vietnamese restaurant also offers a small menu of casual French classics — hence the name. A recent interior redecoration was a welcome upgrade, especially because Mai retained the intimate alcove tables, which have individual light dimmers and are among the most intimate, reasonably priced tables in town. The food is interesting, generally reliable and somewhat on the mild side; the ambitious wine list has many fine choices.

RECOMMENDED: Vietnamese pancake, lemon beef salad, catfish soup, shrimp le bisto, beef tournedo (beef in wine sauce).

OPEN: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $7.95-$21.99

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot.

LA PAILLOTTE

(2 forks)

3470 N. Clark St.

773-935-4005

Never mind the no-frills setting, because the cooking at this Vietnamese restaurant is especially satisfying.

RECOMMENDED: Soups, escargots, spring rolls, spicy catfish, steamed sea bass with ginger, homemade coconut ice cream

OPEN: Dinner Wed.-Mon., lunch Sat.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $7.50-$12

CREDIT CARDS: A, DS, M, V

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible

LE COLONIAL

**

937 N. Rush St.

312-255-0088

A stylish Vietnamese restaurant with colonial-French decor, and a dark upstairs bar that draws a young Gold Coast crowd. A user-friendly menu and moderate spicing makes it attractive for newcomers.

RECOMMENDED: Beef salad, whole snapper, steamed seabass, Le Colonial float.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

ENTREE PRICES: $12.50-$24

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

NOISE: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Valet parking, no smoking in dining room.

PASTEUR

***

5525 N. Broadway

773-878-1061

A tropical-cool dining room with sherbet-colored walls, rattan chairs and tropical plants is home to what is arguably Chicago’s finest Vietnamese food. Those who remember Pasteur from its no-frills Sheridan Road days will be especially delighted.

RECOMMENDED: Chao tom, stuffed portobello, beef salad, pho, dungeness crab.

OPEN: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Wed.-Sun.

ENTREE PRICES: $12.50-$25.50

CREDIT CARDS: A, DC, DS, M, V

RESERVATIONS: Conversation-friendly

OTHER: Wheelchair accessible parking lot.