Capers are an ancient seasoning condiment, the small, olive-drab buds of a Mediterranean shrub that have been preserved by salting or pickling. Their distinctive flavor, a unique blend of salty and sour, adds drama to many Italian, Provencal, Spanish and North African dishes.
Producers in several countries proclaim the superiority of their capers, so sample several brands of both pickled and salted varieties to find the ones you prefer.
Bottled capers packed in vinegar will keep for many months in the refrigerator; drain off liquid before using. For a less salty taste, rinse and drain before using.
Salt-packed capers stored in glass or ceramic containers will keep for several months at room temperature; rinse and drain before using.
Coarsely chop capers before using to release their flavor.
Capers range in size from the petite, nonpareil variety of France to the Italian variety that’s as big as the tip of your little finger, writes Sharon Tyler Herbst in “Food Lovers Companion.”
TAPENADE
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Yield: 1 cup
Capers and anchovies–flavors from the earth and sea–give this Provencal olive spread its intensity. Spread it over grilled bread, cold roast beef or lamb.
1/2 pound Greek or Nicoise olives, pitted
1 ounce anchovy fillets
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons each: capers, olive oil
Freshly ground pepper
1. Place olives in food processor or blender. Add anchovies, garlic, capers and olive oil; process or blend briefly. Mixture should be blended but still coarse. Transfer to bowl; add pepper to taste.
2. Spoon into covered crock; cover with thin layer of olive oil. Store in refrigerator up to 3 weeks.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
Calories …………. 35 Fat ………. 3.4 g Saturated fat … 0.5 g
% calories from fat .. 82 Cholesterol … 2 mg Sodium ……… 220 mg
Carbohydrates ……. 1 g Protein …… 0.7 g Fiber ……….. 0.5 g
CAPER VINAIGRETTE
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Yield: About 2/3 cup
This classic French salad dressing makes a quick, tasty sauce for raw or cooked vegetables, meats, poultry, seafood or pasta salad.
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Salt, freshly ground pepper
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon drained capers, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 hard-cooked egg, chopped
1. Whisk vinegar, small pinch of salt and pepper to taste in small bowl until salt dissolves. Whisk in oil, capers and parsley. Dressing can be refrigerated, covered, up to 2 days.
2. Just before serving, whisk again; stir in chopped egg. Adjust seasoning, if needed.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
Calories …………. 75 Fat ………… 8 g Saturated fat … 1.2 g
% calories from fat .. 96 Cholesterol .. 20 mg Sodium ………. 30 mg
Carbohydrates ….. 0.1 g Protein …… 0.6 g Fiber …………. 0 g
BRAISED BEEF WITH OLIVES AND CAPERS
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hour 30 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Pasta or rice and lightly cooked green beans or zucchini are good accompaniments for this Mediterranean specialty. Taste the dish before salting it, because both the olives and capers are salty.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 beef chuck roast (2 1/4-2 1/2 pounds), rolled, tied, patted dry
8 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or
1 can (16 ounces) chopped tomatoes with their juice
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 1/4 cups water
4 tablespoons capers, rinsed, drained
1 2/3 cups (one 6-ounce can) drained, pitted black olives
Freshly ground pepper
Salt, optional
1. Heat oil in heavy casserole over medium-high heat. Add beef; brown on all sides. Remove beef to plate. Discard all but 1 tablespoon oil from casserole.
2. Add garlic to casserole; cook over low heat 30 seconds, stirring. Add tomatoes, oregano and bay leaf; heat to boiling, stirring. Add tomato paste and 1/4 cup of the water; return to boiling, stirring to dissolve any browned bits in pan.
3. Return beef to casserole with any juices that have accumulated on plate. Add remaining 1 cup water; heat to boiling. Reduce heat to low; cover. Cook 2 hours, stirring sauce occasionally.
4. Add 3 tablespoons of the capers; simmer until beef is very tender, about 1 hour. Remove meat to a platter; cover with foil.
5. Skim fat from cooking liquid. Boil liquid over high heat, stirring often, until it thickens slightly, about 7 minutes. Discard bay leaf.
6. Meanwhile, transfer meat to carving board; remove strings. Slice meat about 3/4-inch thick.
7. Reduce heat to low. Stir in olives; cook, uncovered, 3 minutes. Stir remaining tablespoon of capers into sauce; add pepper to taste. Taste; add more salt and pepper, if needed, before serving.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ……….. 760 Fat ………… 55 g Saturated fat … 19 g
% calories from fat .. X Cholesterol …… mg Sodium …….. 930 mg
Carbohydrates …… X g Protein …….. 50 g Fiber ………. 4.5 g
