Sweet Maple Cafe is just that: a charming, cozy eatery tucked next to a bakery on Taylor Street, a few blocks east of the University of Illinois at Chicago campus and some big-name Italian restaurants.
It is unpretentious, comfortable and blessed with a menu of tasty breakfast eats, as well as a lunchtime lineup. If that wonderful aunt of yours–the one who makes great fluffy biscuits and slices slabs of ham off the bone for breakfast–opened a cafe, this would be it.
Leaf decals and a few pictures line the walls. Below a chair-rail, yellow paint adds its sunshine. The tables, a baker’s dozen, are covered in heavy plastic cloth. A chalkboard behind the counter-cooler combination lists the day’s specials.
Breakfast is the big draw at Sweet Maple Cafe for good reason: The portions are good-sized and nicely prepared. The coffee is Seattle’s Best. The muffins are baked at the restaurant.
Take the Taylor Street omelet. It is perfectly cooked outside and in–the fontina cheese runny, not tough; the basil, tomatoes and Italian sausage pieces dispersed throughout. It’s $7.25 with the sausage ($6.25 without) and a side of chunky home fries and a cornmeal biscuit or toast. Other omelet contenders (also with potatoes and choice of biscuit or toast) include a three-cheese omelet (Cheddar, Swiss and fontina; $5.95); sunrise omelet (sausage, onions, Cheddar; $6.50) or a make-your-own with four ingredients ($6.95).
A chunky, well-flavored corned beef hash served with two eggs (we ordered ours over easy and they arrive as runny as we like ’em) and a biscuit ($6.50) has a can’t-stop-eating-it delicious flavor. The holiday French toast ($5.25), made with thick-sliced challah bread dipped in a nutmeg- and vanilla-flavored custard, meets a similar fate at our table. We drop an extra $1.50 for a slice of bone-in ham and are happy we did.
Other breakfast items include two eggs, biscuit with a side of bacon or country sausage ($4.50); eggs Alex (two eggs, corn tortillas, black beans, Cheddar and salsa; $6.50); as well as five types of pancakes, ranging from buttermilk ($5.25) to blueberry ($5.95) and chocolate chip ($5.75).
Sides worth considering, besides that bone-in ham, include country sausage (patty or link; $1.95); biscuits with spicy sausage gravy ($2.95); cup of grits ($2.25; with cheese, $2.75–and the extra 50 cents is a worthwhile expenditure).
The lunch menu also is a pretty good effort. The sandwiches, served with habit-forming (though under-salted) home-made potato chips and a pickle, make up the bulk of the menu; the fried chicken sandwich ($6.95) with an herbed or roasted garlic mayo is our favorite. We try ours on a bollo (a crusty roll) with the garlic mayo.
The grilled chicken sandwich ($6.95), with the same choice of mayos and breads–onion, bollo or wheat bun–is fine, though drier than we like. Isaiah’s tuna salad ($6.25), a slightly sweet mix with low-fat dressing, carrots, celery and apples on wheat toast, offers a nice change of pace, but it’s a bit runny.
There are a variety of coffees, including regular-size brewed ($1.50), cappuccino ($1.90) and caffe mocha ($2.65). Espresso starts at $1.35 for a single shot. Teas (hot or iced, $1.65), fresh orange juice ($1.85 small) and soft drinks ($1) are also available.
We also try blueberry muffins ($1.50 each), though the blueberry presence is sparse. Now if only we had room for the lemon poppyseed or orange-cranberry variations. Looks as if we may have to return.
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Sweet Maple Cafe
(3 forks)
1339 W. Taylor St.
312-243-8908
Hours: 7 a.m.-2 p.m. daily; breakfast until 11:30 a.m. Mon.-Fri.; breakfast only all day Sat. and Sun.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation friendly
Wheelchair accessible (a small step at the entry); free parking across the street
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
