Talk about a warm destination on a cold winter’s evening. Suzette’s small storefront welcomes diners with cheery tables decked out in black-and-white checked tablecloths, black wood wainscoting and a three-stool counter with two whimsical McKenzie-Childs look-alike ceramic lamps. But even more welcoming is the warm greeting from a youthful staff and Donna Hesik, chef and owner. First on the agenda: Peruse the blackboard that lists daily specials. They usually include one crepe dish and a selection of four or so desserts. Then turn to the menu, where soup, crepes, quiches, dessert crepes and a long list of beverages reside. All of these a la carte items are served at both lunch and dinner. But at dinner Hesik also whips up a five-course, $25 meal that is beyond Cheap Eats range, but remains a bargain. (Changing daily, it might include such hearty entrees as beef fillet au poivre, duck breast with cherries, pork tenderloin with apples Normandy or lamb shanks with white beans.)
Back on the a la carte side, there is no better way to start a meal at Suzette’s than with a Southwestern vegetable chowder ($2.50 and $4.50) that packs a kick from poblano peppers. The cream-based soup mixes a variety of vegetables including corn, green beans and carrots for a rich start. The bowl version is enough for a meal. Other daily soups might include a butternut squash version.
The spicy coconut shrimp crepe ($7.50) wraps a thin, perfectly cooked crepe around a rich filling of tender medium shrimp, diced bell peppers, jalapenos and green onions in a sauce of coconut milk. It’s topped with grated coconut and a slice of lime. Mixed greens, tossed with a sweet, balsamic vinegar dressing, nestle beside all of the crepes. The beef bourguignon crepe ($8) is a hit: Tender pieces of beef are braised in a wine sauce, along with mushrooms, carrots and pearl onions. Rich and flavorful, it cries for an equally rich red wine. But Suzette’s has no liquor license, so you’ll have to bring your own.
The broccoli and cheese quiche ($6) makes a fine example of the French way of doing this staple lunch dish. It is light, almost airy, melting in the mouth, and the crust is flaky. One evening, though, the bottom crust became soggy, perhaps from heating in a microwave.
A chicken special one night ($10.50) combined a moist, French-cut breast (with a portion of the wing attached), seasoned, slightly breaded and baked. It came with a truffle sauce that was light on truffles but fine on overall flavor. Mashed potatoes and an unusual succotash made from okra, lima beans and corn completed the almost overflowing plate.
Desserts ($4-$5.50) include crepes and cakes made in-house, and others such as a scrumptious chocolate “pyramid” with chocolate and cappuccino mousses, are from outside suppliers. Applesauce cake with caramel frosting has a fine flavor but is a bit dry. The apple dumpling puts a tender whole apple inside a slightly tough pastry, served with a rich house-made caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream from Tate’s Homemade Ice Cream in Wheaton.
Coffee, made in a French press, comes in a choice of light, medium or dark roast. A 2-cup pot is $3; a 4-cup pot is $4.50. Ginger beer ($2.25) makes a snappy drink. But the perfect go-with for Suzette’s crepes? Sparkling cider ($2.25), that oh-so-classic French-style sipper.
Suzette’s, which closed for the holidays, will reopen on Jan. 10.
———-
Suzette’s Creperie
(3 forks)
211 W. Front St., Wheaton
630-462-0898
Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Wed.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Afternoon tea by reservation: 2-5 p.m. Wed.-Sat.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise rating: Conversation-friendly
Wheelchair accessible
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
