Italian and Chinese menus have anchored restaurant-heavy North Avenue in Elmwood Park for years, and it’s nice to see another cuisine join the lineup. Cafe Bolero, at the east end of the 7400 block, adds a sizzling Cuban punch to this neighborhood’s restaurant row. This suburban location of Cafe Bolero (the flagship restaurant is on Western Avenue) opened last April.
Seven tables seat about 25; a larger number is accommodated when outdoor seating is installed in the summer. Cafe Bolero’s brightly colored interior–a lavender and peach palette that extends to festive dishware–and ample selection of tangy Cuban favorites make it a nice place to rally against a cold climate. The staff takes a casual and accommodating approach, and the laid-back atmosphere makes this a cozy spot for conversation.
As soon as you’re seated, a loaf of soft, warm bread and a delicious, flavored butter arrive. The butter recipe is a secret, we were told, but thyme, sage and garlic play pivotal roles.
Lots of tapas, or appetizers, are offered. We nibbled happily on the stuffed yuca ($2.95), a sweet root vegetable that’s mashed then deep-fried. The ham croquettes (4 for $3) take a similar deep-fried approach with a creamy ham interior spiked with garlic and cayenne. A citrusy tomato salsa accompanies them, though we liked them just fine as is.
The sides that come with entrees–tender white rice, black beans and deep-fried sweet plantains (a firm, mild cooking banana)–can be ordered individually. They offer excellent support to the main dishes, which arrive beautifully presented, like a buffet on a plate.
Ropa vieja ($8.99) is a standout; our taste buds are still watering at the memory of the velvety shreds of beef immersed in a piquant sauce of tomatoes and bell peppers with generous amounts of garlic, onion and oregano. The chicken stew ($9.50) arrives on a plate, not a bowl, with huge chunks of chicken (dark and white meat, though all white meat can be requested) and nicely yielding russet potatoes. The ample serving is marred, though, by too much salt.
Other worthwhile entrees include the pork sandwich, Creole style ($4.50), a hefty construction of sturdy French bread and large slices of pork prepared in a citrus-based marinade. A cold salad of black beans, celery and onion offers a nice balance of flavors. Vegetarians can order the stuffed peppers (two for $7.50), brimming over with a mixture of rice, mozzarella and mild salsa. The dish has a balanced texture; the peppers keep a slight crunch while the filling is more thoroughly cooked.
For an after-dinner jolt, the Cuban espresso ($1.50) delivers a robust finale. For a smoother finish, the thick and creamy flan de leche ($3) makes a nice choice for dessert, which is good, because it’s the only dessert offered.
Cafe Bolero is in the process of getting its liquor license. In the meantime, you can bring your own wine or beer, so call ahead to check on their license status. As soon as we set our wine bottle on the table, the waitress promptly uncorked it and passed out rocks glasses. We toasted to warmer weather, and avoided looking out the window.
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Cafe Bolero
(3 forks)
7426 W. North Ave.
Elmwood Park
708-456-6100
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V (Card use requires minimum purchase of $20)
Noise rating: Conversation-friendly
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
