Q–About four years ago you answered a question for me regarding piston slap in the engine of my ’92 Jeep Cherokee. That was at about 60,000 miles. The Jeep is at 120,000 miles. The noise caused by the piston slap isn’t any better but didn’t get any worse. The engine is still very strong. I attribute this to your constant reminders about oil changes and general maintenance.
My question this time concerns more of a nuisance. The lug nuts for my factory honeycombed wheels on the Jeep are constantly losing the aluminum pieces that cover what appears to be a standard lug nut. I’m not a fanatic about keeping the vehicle perfect, but standard lug nuts just don’t look right with the wheels. I spoke to the dealer and he claims that Chrysler does not have a solid replacement for the two-piece lug nuts.
He is willing to sell me new lug nuts at $5 each every time I get the tires rotated. I checked with two parts stores to try to spec aftermarket replacements, but neither of them carry a direct replacement. I’m somewhat concerned about lug nuts that are “close enough.” Is there an aftermarket source that you could direct me to? G., Lindenhurst
A–We are always gladdened to hear that we got something right. Thanks. Regarding your lug nuts, what you have are standard nuts with cheap covers. This is more common than you might imagine. Specialty auto stores, particularly those that sell custom wheels, carry a full range of fancy nuts (less than 50 percent peanuts) that will fit your Cherokee. But they may not look identical to the original equipment nuts and buying a set of new ones may be costly.
Here’s a cheaper solution. Get some plastic tack found in the office supplies section of variety stores. It goes by names such as Fun Tack and is designed to stick stuff to walls without causing damage. Put a wad of this stuff in each of the decorative caps and they may stop falling off. And, the tack will not damage the threads on the wheel studs.
Q–For years I have been told that the best tire pressure was to fill your tires to the maximum pressure on the sidewall. After working at an auto shop, some customers ask for their tires to be set to the pressures indicated on the driver’s side B-pillar. Our shop sets 44-psi maximum tires to 40 psi, and 35-psi maximum tires to 32 psi. Who is right? S., Bartlett
A–Everybody is right, but for different reasons. At the shop, it is quick and easy to set the tire pressure just a tad under the maximum inflation because it saves the technician a trip to the car. And the selected pressures will work fine.
However, the customer is probably used to the feel of the car with the pressures on the decal, which is a compromise between handling and comfort.
Tires that are a couple pounds over the specified pressure can be bled down. Underinflated tires are more trouble.
Q–You suggested using graphite to keep locks working smoothly (Motormouth, Dec. 31). I have heard that graphite was abrasive for auto locks and something like WD-40 will work better. L.C., Westchester
A–We hate to say it, but you are wrong on both counts. Graphite is a pure form of carbon that, under a microscope, looks like flat flakes. These flakes slide smoothly across one another as well as across the metal in the lock.
Spray lubricants like WD-40, while great temporarily, wash away the lock’s lubrication, leaving it dry and notchy.
Q–I bought a new 2000 Honda Civic LX in August. I do not put a lot of miles on a car, so I change oil about every three months instead of waiting for 3,000 miles.
In early November, I had about 1,500 miles on the car and brought it in to the dealer to have the oil changed since the original oil had been in the car about one year. The service guy said that I should not change the oil until it had 2,500 miles on the car because it had break-in oil and that must stay in the car until it had 2,500 miles no matter how long it took. Is that correct?
It seems a long time for oil and yet I do not want to damage the engine by draining the break-in oil from the car. I plan to keep the car 10 years or more. D.L., Palos Heights
A–For every rule there is an exception, and Honda is the exception. Normally, we would suggest an earlier oil change, but Honda is one of the few car companies that uses a different oil for the break-in period.
We tend to agree with the Honda technician. But we also think that it is close enough that you can now get your oil changed.
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Bob Weber is an ASE-certified Master Automobile Technician, having recertified every five years since 1978. Address your technical questions about cars and trucks to Motormouth, 17717 Silcott Springs Rd., Purcellville, Va., 20132. Send e-mail, including name and town, to MotormouthTribune@netscape.net. Answers will be supplied only through the newspaper.
