More than half a century ago, at the end of World War II, a small group of Chicagoans sought to create a new kind of place where cultured, successful people, people like themselves, could enrich body, mind and soul. While that vision reflected their personal values, it also was inspired by a specific setting–an old, nearly abandoned but undeniably lovely Victorian mining town perched at an altitude of 8,000 feet in a splendid but remote valley of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. The town was called Aspen.
Once known as the Crystal City of the Rockies, Aspen had been down on its luck since the United States demonetized silver in 1893. That luck changed in 1939 when a 38-year-old Chicagoan arrived by train on a spur-of-the-moment skiing expedition. Her name was Elizabeth Nitze Paepcke, and by falling in love with quaint but dilapidated Aspen, she began the process that has turned it into a unique nexus of style, money, art, celebrity and outdoor sport.
Though she was the highly cultured daughter of William Nitze, a prominent member of the University of Chicago faculty, Elizabeth grew up loving the outdoors, especially vacations in Estes Park, Colo., a place where many Chicagoans escaped from the heat and humidity of a Midwestern summer. Colorado vacations remained favorites of Elizabeth’s even after she married Walter Paepcke, one of Chicago’s most dynamic business executives, and in 1936, Walter and Elizabeth purchased their own piece of Colorado, a 7,500-acre ranch south of Denver.
Born in 1896, Walter was raised in a mansion at what is now Michigan Avenue and Pearson Street across the street from the Water Tower. He assumed control of the family lumber business at age 25, turning it into Container Corp. of America and making a fortune in the packaging industry. Walter, however, was much more than a box maker. Brilliant, energetic, imaginative, cultured and persistent, he would become the father figure of modern Aspen though only after Elizabeth’s repeated urgings over a five-year span finally convinced him to pay serious attention to the little mountain town.
Walter’s initial focus in Colorado was the ranch near Denver, which he turned into another setting for his tireless entrepreneurial spirit. Between 1936 and 1946 he tried a succession of inventive schemes to turn the ranch into a moneymaking proposition–in each instance with absolutely no success, according to “The Romance of Commerce and Culture,” by James Sloan Allen (subtitled “Capitalism, Modernism and the Chicago-Aspen Crusade for Cultural Reform”).
It was in the winter of 1939 that a minor disaster (frozen pipes) at the ranch prompted Elizabeth and two guests to head toward Aspen for some skiing. Like many Chicagoans who would discover Aspen in the late 1940s and 1950s, Elizabeth and her guests took the train as far as Glenwood Springs, then were driven the last 40 miles to Aspen up the winding and scenic Roaring Fork Valley.
By the late 1930s, Aspen was developing a reputation as a ski resort, though it was hardly a rival to glamorous Sun Valley, Idaho. For the 1936-37 ski season, a group of enthusiasts had opened Aspen’s first ski lodge, and in the years that followed, a small but growing band of skiers was attracted to Aspen even though it lacked a real ski lift.
One key group of early arrivals was soldiers from the 10th Mountain Division, who trained at nearby Camp Hale during World War II. They came to Aspen for weekend skiing and, like Elizabeth, were quickly won over by the old city’s many charms. A number of these young men went back to Aspen after the war and played key roles in its later development. Friedl Pfeifer, for example, returned full of enthusiasm and started the Aspen Ski School. Fritz Benedict, another 10th Mountain veteran, was an architect whose ranch on Red Mountain, just outside Aspen, eventually became an exclusive subdivision sprinkled with celebrity homeowners such as singer John Denver.
Still, it was the Paepckes, especially Walter, who finally supplied the vision and resources to revitalize Aspen. Even before setting eyes on the town, Walter was at work gleaning information and checking on potential real estate purchases. In fact, when Elizabeth finally persuaded Walter to visit Aspen in the spring of 1945, he was ready to buy. On his first two days in town, Paepcke invested more than $10,000 (at a time when many Aspen houses sold for just a few hundred dollars in back taxes), acquiring both a large commercial block and a well-maintained Victorian home. He proudly presented the house to Elizabeth as a gift, though Elizabeth apparently viewed it as a mixed blessing. Already responsible for an estate outside Chicago and the ranch in Colorado, she was not thrilled with the idea of supervising yet another of Walter’s real estate investments.
The Paepckes and their friends, including a number of Chicagoans, were Aspen’s first modern real estate speculators, quickly and discreetly buying up large chunks of the town. And when the Paepckes could not buy Aspen’s two pre-eminent structures, the Hotel Jerome and the Wheeler Opera House (both built in 1889 by Jerome B. Wheeler, who sold his interest in Macy’s Department Store to invest in Aspen), they negotiated long-term leases.
Walter’s other real estate speculations may have been misguided, but in Aspen he and his associates hit the mother lode. Old miners’ cottages that sold for a few hundred dollars in 1945 now sell for a million or two. Luxurious hotels, chic shops and sumptuous restaurants crowd the business district. Huge mansions dot the surrounding valleys and mountainsides. Almost no one but the rich, or those lucky enough to have bought before prices went through the roof, can afford to live in Aspen.
An excellent gauge of Aspen’s current allure is the bizarre heights reached by the real estate market in the city and surrounding Pitkin County. According to Worth magazine, Aspen had the second highest median home price in the nation for 1999: $1.62 million–not bad for a town where winter can last eight months.
In July 2000, per-square-foot asking prices within Aspen’s city limits averaged $900 for single-family homes and $770 for condominiums. Indeed, real estate is now Aspen’s largest industry, with annual transactions exceeding $1 billion in Pitkin County, despite its mere 14,290 residents. About 10 percent of the real estate parcels in the 970-square-mile county change hands annually.
The mad scramble for Aspen real estate has had some less desirable implications for the Roaring Fork Valley. Unable to afford housing near their jobs, thousands of people employed in Aspen (from maids and ski lift operators to doctors and lawyers) now live in “down valley” communities, such as Basalt, El Jebel and Carbondale. The old two-lane road connecting Aspen to Glenwood Springs and Interstate Highway 70 has been gradually widened to four lanes over almost its entire length. Nonetheless, morning traffic into Aspen and evening traffic out of town now bear more than a passing resemblance to Chicago’s rush hour.
To help solve the in-town housing dilemma, the City of Aspen and Pitkin County have developed a subsidized housing program. Late in 1999, a group of subsidized one-bedroom and three-bedroom homes were offered for sale through a lottery in which any eligible resident could bid. Nearly 850 bids were received for the 15 homes, which sold at prices as high as $219,000, but far below market value.
Such lotteries were far from the minds of the Paepckes and their associates during their first years in Aspen. To ensure the success of their real estate investments, Walter Paepcke next focused on developing Aspen’s potential as a ski resort, putting Elizabeth’s brother, Paul H. Nitze, in charge of raising the $300,000 needed to erect what was then the world’s longest ski lift up Aspen Mountain. They then joined with a small group of other pioneers to found Aspen Skiing Corp. to operate the ski facility. Today, as the Aspen Skiing Co., it still rules the local ski slopes, operating four separate mountains with 39 lifts and 4,819 acres of skiable terrain.
Chicagoan Joanne Alter was among the young skiers who flocked to Aspen in the early 1950s, arriving by train and bus. She and her friends often stayed in a place called Ed’s Beds for 50 cents a night.
“What I remember most was the mud. Nothing in town was paved,” says Alter, who often skied in Aspen with a Chicago group called the Snowchase Club. “We were a bit young to socialize with the Paepckes, but we knew them and their many Chicago friends. The entire town had a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. The ski lift was very slow and cold, so we’d ride up wearing our fur coats, then take our coats off and send them down on the lift. And when we got down to the bottom, our coats were there waiting for us.”
When Joanne married Jim Alter, their children attended Francis W. Parker School, and many of the Parker families also vacationed in Aspen.
“It was almost like home because you’d run into people from Chicago everywhere–on the street, in the lift line or in the bar at the Hotel Jerome, which was the main gathering place,” Alter recalls. “There was a special romance about Aspen then. It was casual and friendly, but still rather elitist. There was an intellectual presence that permeated Aspen in those days.”
Creating that elitist atmosphere was yet another aspect of the Paepckes’ vision, which only began with winter sports. No sooner had the first lift been planned than Walter and Elizabeth turned their attention to putting cultural excellence on the Aspen agenda. They convinced their friend Robert M. Hutchins, president of the University of Chicago, that Aspen would make an ideal site to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of Johann Wolfgang Goethe, the great German writer, philosopher and statesman.
Conceived as a showcase for the university’s humanistic ideals, which the Paepckes shared, the 1949 Goethe Bicentennial Convocation and Music Festival featured lectures and music from a roster of cultural all-stars headed by Nobel Prize winner Albert Schweitzer. It was a national success, earning extensive media coverage and establishing Aspen as a new American center for world culture.
The Paepckes and Hutchins, along with Mortimer Adler, creator of the Great Books program and a member of the University of Chicago faculty, were quick to seize the momentum. First, they established the Aspen Institute for Humanistic Studies. Then, the following year they presented a summer program of events that not only inaugurated the institute but paved the way for another enduring feature of Aspen’s cultural life–the Aspen Music Festival and School.
An additional Paepcke creation was the International Design Conference, an annual summer event established in 1951 and intended to forge a strong link between high-quality design and the world of business. The use of innovative design was a hallmark of Container Corp. under Paepcke’s leadership, and he also played a central role in establishing the Institute of Design in Chicago, led by the renowned Bauhaus designer Laszlo Moholy-Nagy. Like so many of Paepcke’s projects, it was never a financial success and was absorbed into the Illinois Institute of Technology in 1949. The International Design Conference, however, has become an enduring part of summer in Aspen.
In other words, it took the Paepckes and their friends only about six years to establish the basic structural framework that turned Aspen into what is arguably the most sophisticated, glamorous small city in America.
Fleshing out the Paepcke legacy is an ongoing project, and it is remarkable to note how much of the heavy lifting is still being done by Chicagoans. The most visible Chicago presence in today’s Aspen is Aspen Skiing Co., which is owned by Chicago’s wealthy Crown family and headed by managing partner Jim Crown, the son of Lester and Renee Crown.
Less immediately visible, but quite influential are Chicagoans Norman Perlmutter and Gene Golub, whose Snowmass Land Co. has developed hundreds of acres of residential property at the base of Snowmass, the largest of the four mountains operated by Aspen Skiing Co.
Perlmutter, the former chairman of Chicago-based Heitman Financial Ltd., had never skied before visiting Aspen but soon became an enthusiast and purchased a vacation home at Snowmass in the 1970s. He recalls that when he and Golub learned all the remaining developable land at Snowmass was available for purchase, “we decided we’d better buy it so it would be developed to create the kind of community we wanted to see. Much of the early development here was fairly high density, but we’ve moved away from that in order to preserve more of the natural environment.”
Like Perlmutter, the Crown family discovered Aspen as a vacation destination long before seeing it as a business opportunity.
“We had been going out to Aspen for 10 years or so, and we loved the place,” says Jim Crown. “At that point, we were approached by Tom Klutznik [another Chicagoan] about purchasing 50 percent of the partnership that then owned Aspen Skiing Co. We did that, and then had the opportunity to purchase the other 50 percent interest in 1993.
“We viewed it as both a good investment and terrific fun, but the business aspect is more of a challenge now. The growth of skiing has flattened, and it is a more competitive market.”
Over at the Aspen Music Festival, the board of trustees is headed by Matthew Bucksbaum, president of Chicago-based General Growth Properties and himself a new Chicago resident. Other Chicagoans on the board include Paula Crown, Franklin Chanen, R. Michael Murray and Betty Weiss. Also of primary importance in supporting the music festival have been Chicagoans Joan and Irving Harris, whose generosity helped build Harris Concert Hall. Opened in 1993, it provided the major year-round performance venue Aspen had sought for years.
The Aspen Institute recently acquired its first Chicago-based president in many years with the appointment of Elmer W. Johnson, a prominent Loop attorney. The institute has secured its niche in Aspen’s cultural landscape by offering stimulating seminars aimed at leaders in business and government. Last summer, for example, its 50th anniversary seminar on “Globalization and the Human Condition” featured a range of high-profile participants from historian Stephen Ambrose and journalist Thomas Friedman to former President Jimmy Carter and former Secretary of State Henry Kissinger.
Walter Paepcke died in 1960, but Elizabeth lived on in Aspen until 1994, and was a vital voice in her community, keeping alive the dream that she and Walter shared and helping found new institutions such as the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies. But she was also disappointed, as were many of Aspen’s old guard, in the new culture of money, celebrity and relentless real estate development that now seem to dominate the town, producing a succession of huge new homes that cost millions to build but are occupied only a few months or weeks each year.
“We don’t go to Aspen much anymore,” says Joanne Alter. “It’s still a great place, but it has gotten so glitzy, and that’s not us.”
Despite the glitz and the influx of 14,000-square-foot, $20 million vacation homes, the Paepckes’ dream of creating a place where mind, body and soul could blend with nature still defines much of Aspen’s character. What’s more, Aspen’s links to Chicago have remained firm, with a new generation of visionary Chicagoans now helping Aspen meet the inevitable challenges that flow from its astonishing success.
THE BEST OF ASPEN
PLACES TO STAY
The Little Nell Nestled at the base of Ajax (Aspen Mountain), The Little Nell blends the charms of an intimate country inn with the indulgences of a grand European hotel. The only mountain resort to earn both the 2000 AAA Five Diamond and Mobil Five Star awards, this is definitely the place to stay. 675 E. Durant Ave. Phone: 888-843-6355.
Hotel Jerome Built in 1889 and restored to its original Victorian splendor, the Jerome is located in the heart of downtown Aspen. Each of the 93 guest rooms is uniquely appointed with original period antiques. 330 E. Main St. Phone: 800-331-7213.
The St. Regis At the base of (Ajax) Aspen Mountain, the St. Regis is a block and a half away from the Silver Queen Gondola. All 257 exquisitely decorated guest rooms offer breathtaking views and luxurious Italian marble bathrooms. 315 E. Dean St. Phone: 888-454-9005.
Sardy House If a bed and breakfast is more your style, try this beautifully restored Victorian. Situated on the edge of town along the free skier shuttle, this 20-room gem offers full restaurant services, a pool, sauna and hot tub. 128 E. Main St. Phone: 800-321-3457.
PLACES TO EAT
Olives This latest addition to fine dining in Aspen opened a year ago to rave reviews. Restaurateur Todd English knows what it takes to keep locals happy. Dishes like tuna tartare; grilled octopus and squid with chickpeas in a vinaigrette; and tortelli stuffed with butternut squash in a brown butter and sage sauce make reservations hard to come by. 315 E. Dean St. Phone: 970-920-7356.
Syzygy Drawing from Southwestern, Italian, French and Asian cuisines, Syzygy can please even the most discriminating gourmand. Try elk tenderloin with ancho chili, country potatoes, warm sun-dried fig chutney and Madeira glaze. 520 E. Hyman St. Phone: 970-925-3700.
Pinons Zagat Survey gives this elegant spot its highest rating. For consistently superb American cuisine with a western touch, this is the place. 105 S. Mill St. Phone: 970-920-2021.
Johnny McGuire’s If it’s the funkier side of Aspen you’re after, don’t miss Johnny McGuire’s. This local hangout offers some of the best specialty subs in the Rockies. My favorite is the Free Willie, a delicious blend of turkey, avocado, bacon, Swiss cheese, sprouts and a variety of veggies. Perfect for packing on a hike. 730 E. Cooper Ave. Phone: 970-920-9255.
Matsuhisa Aspen Sushi fans will be delighted by Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s imaginative gourmet Japanese-inspired seafood, fused with international flavors. Be sure to order the dynamite shrimp and broiled black cod with miso. 303 E. Main St. (entrance on Monarch). Phone: 970-544-6628.
Little Annie’s Eating HouseVoted Aspen’s best old restaurant by the local newspaper, Little Annie’s is great for families. Most agree this is the best hamburger in town. 517 E. Hyman Ave. Phone: 970-925-1098.
THINGS TO DO
(Besides Skiing)
Aspen Music Festival and School. The renowned Aspen Music Festival ushered in the new millennium with the opening of its state-of-the-art 2,050-seat music tent. With a calendar of events much like that of the Ravinia Festival, more than 170 programs made up the 2000 summer season, which ran late June to late August. Phone: 970-925-3254.
Anderson Ranch Arts Center A non-profit, year-round visual arts community, it offers nearly 100 workshops during the summer. Last summer’s workshops included terra cotta pottery; handbuilding with the wheel; woodworking for ages 9-12; beauty and photography. Phone: 970-923-3181.
Aspen Theatre in the Park This is a professional theater and school that produces contemporary, classical and new works. One musical, two plays and a children’s production were in repertory last summer. Phone: 970-925-9313.
Aspen Center for Environmental Studies (ACES) ACES is located on the 25-acre Hallam Lake Nature Preserve in the heart of Aspen. Self-guided and naturalist-guided tours are available. Phone: 970-925-5756.
Aspen Food & Wine Festival Held every June, the Aspen Food and Wine Festival is one of the nation’s most prestigious epicurean events. Culinary superstars share their passion for food, wine and entertaining.
4th of July Aspen’s Independence Day celebration is a day filled with family fun including races, parades, concerts and fireworks.
The Aspen Institute Founded in 1950, the original mission of the Aspen Institute was “to give greater meaning to man and wiser direction to society.” Over the years the institute organized what was likely the first global climate change conference ever held and helped lay the groundwork for the creation of the National Endowment for the Humanities. Last summer the institute’s 50th Anniversary International Conference was titled “Globalization and the Human Condition.” Phone: 970-925-7010.
PLACES TO HANG OUT
The Bar at the Little Nell This is a great place to relax after skiing and into the night. 675 E. Durant Ave. Phone: 970-920-4600.
The Caribou Club This is the most exclusive club in town. It’s members only, but guests of the Little Nell can dine here and experience the scene. 411 E. Hopkins Ave. Phone: 970-925-2929.
Whiskey Rocks Located in the St. Regis hotel, this popular late-night spot also offers live music 4 to 6 p.m. for apres-ski. 515 S. Mill St. Phone: 970-544-2485.
Club 426 This is the hottest dance spot in town. It’s members only, but your concierge can usually arrange a visit. Or you can opt for a weekly membership for $400. 426 E. Hyman Ave. Phone: 970-544-9444.
The J-Bar at the Hotel Jerome Nestled in historic Hotel Jerome, this is a nice, quiet place to get a drink. 330 E. Main St. Phone: 970-920-1000.
Eric’s Bar A favorite with young locals, Eric’s features billiards and a cigar room. 315 E. Hyman Ave. Phone: 970-920-6707.
— By Kathy Kaplan
SPEAKING THE LANGUAGE
– AJAX What the locals call Aspen Mountain, Ajax is now the official name (and it will be open to snowboarders for the first time as of April).
– POWDER CLAUSE Written into certain employment contracts, it says that if it snows at night you ski the next day.
– FIRST TRACKS The first run down Aspen Mountain or Snowmass before the lifts open. Aspen Ski Company, 800-525-6200.
– CHAMPAGNE POWDER Beautiful, soft powder; the sensation of skiing on velvet.
– FAT BOYS Wide skis used for powder.
