Yes, celery root looks like it was dug from the depths of an evil forest created in the mind of Edgar Allan Poe. It’s gnarly, knobby and, well, just plain ugly. Get past the appearance, and there’s an irresistible root vegetable that combines the zesty flavor of celery and parsley. It has a refreshing, clean taste, deeper than celery, but without the strings. Earthy, yet savory-sweet.
Also called celeriac, this frumpy veggie looks like a brown, lopsided sphere speckled with whorls and crevices, with dimensions that range from baseball to cantaloupe size. Unruly rootlets, twisted and muddy, dangle higgledy-piggledy from the bottom, while multiple bright green stalks and leaves courageously sprout from the top.
Because the leaves and stalks tend to quickly wilt, they’re often trimmed to 1- to 3-inch lengths when they reach market, giving the already less-than-glamorous wonder the look of a bloated bulb with a bad crewcut.
Hidden beneath the scruffy brown skin of the root is luscious white flesh, dappled with light-caramel tinges. For hundreds of years, this pale flesh has been prized in European purees, gratins, soups, stuffing, stews and salads.
Sliced, diced or grated. Boiled or braised. Even raw.
For a long time Americans were reluctant celery-root consumers. Then chefs took a shine to it. It turned up in everything from fish entrees to veal stews. Pot roasts and jazzy lobster salads. And avant-garde lasagna, in which thinly sliced, blanched celery root substitutes for pasta.
Not so long ago, it was available in markets only with large specialty produce sections, merely in fall and winter. Now, it’s around more frequently, often year-round, in local supermarkets, in the fresh produce, wedged among the beets, leeks and horseradish.
Perhaps the most classic celery root concoction is celeri remoulade. It’s difficult to imagine a French bistro without it on the menu. This crunchy salad is made with grated raw (or lightly blanched) celery root tossed with a tangy mustard-mayonnaise or mustard-creme fraiche sauce. Versions of this salad stretch from Scandinavia to Italy, where the dressings vary, but celery root remains the queen of the dish.
Here are some ways to use it. Try it. Don’t judge a book by its cover.
– Remoulade, main course or salad: To make a classic celeri remoulade, peel celery root and cut it into wedges that will fit into the feed tube of food processor fitted with grating disk; grate. I like to blanch it 2 minutes in boiling water (to cover) with a squeeze of lemon juice to prevent discoloration, then drain and pat dry on paper towel–but if you wish, you can use it raw. Toss it with a mixture of 1/4 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons sour cream, 1-2 teaspoons lemon juice (use less if you boiled it in water with lemon juice, more if you’re using it raw), 2 tablespoons minced parsley and 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard; use just enough dressing to coat celery root nicely. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Add a teaspoon of drained capers, if you like.
– Do the mashed potato: Potatoes mashed with celery root are the best. Cook peeled and cubed celery root (either 1 large or 2 small) in large pot of boiling, salted water 5 minutes. Add 4 large peeled and cubed baking potatoes; boil 15-20 minutes, or until tender. Drain and return to pot; cook on medium heat until potatoes look dry, about 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and mash with 1 stick butter (1/2 cup), about 4 tablespoons milk, salt and pepper.
– Celeriac of the sea: Peel celery root and finely chop. Add it to your favorite tuna salad, along with a tablespoon of minced parsley or fresh tarragon. It’ll add crunch and spunk.
– Sauteed side dish with carrots: This tender-crisp combination makes a delectable accompaniment to grilled chicken, pork, beef or fish. Peel and slice 4 medium carrots (or use 16 baby carrots–the kind that come packaged, already peeled–then cut them in half lengthwise). Place in medium, deep skillet with 1/2 cup water, 1 tablespoon butter and 1 teaspoon sugar. Heat to boil on high heat; reduce heat to medium and cover for about 10 minutes. Remove cover and add 1 small, peeled and cubed (about 1 inch wide) celery root. Add a little more water and cook about 5 minutes, or until celery root is just barely tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or fresh tarragon.
– Slaw with attitude: Here’s a coleslaw that’s great for autumn or winter gatherings. Serve it with grilled German sausages. Combine 1/2 medium head of green cabbage (cored and shredded), 1/2 small head red cabbage (cored and shredded), 2 red or orange bell peppers (cored and cut into matchsticks) and about 3 cups of peeled celery root cut into matchsticks in a large bowl. Toss; set aside. Combine 2/3 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons cider vinegar, 4 teaspoons sugar, 2 teaspoons celery seed and 1/4 cup chopped parsley in small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Combine vegetables with sauce. This can be made ahead and refrigerated up to 6 hours. (Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine.)
– Sassy bistro rice: Here’s a rice dish loaded with the sweet scent of celery root. Heat 2-3 tablespoons butter or olive oil in a 2 1/2- to 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add 1 onion (chopped) and 1 clove garlic (minced); cook until onion softens. Add 1 cup long-grain white rice; cook, stirring occasionally, until rice is lightly browned. Add 1 cup diced, peeled celery root and 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth. Heat to simmer; cover and reduce heat to low. Simmer 17 minutes. Remove lid, add 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, and fluff rice with fork, combining it with parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
– Chips o’celeriac: Instead of spuds, make crisp chips with celery root. They make a lovely garnish, 1 per serving, with mashed potatoes or green salad (insert vertically or serve on the side, so they look dramatic, but stay crisp). Adjust oven rack to middle position. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut 16 paper-thin slices of celery root. The best way to do this is to use a slicing device called a mandoline, sold at cookware shops. In a small container, mix 1/2 teaspoon each canola oil and melted unsalted butter. Brush both sides of slices with mixture. Sprinkle with sea salt or kosher salt. Place in single layer on non-stick baking sheet. Bake 6 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve at room temperature. From “Salute to Healthy Cooking.”
POTATO AND CELERY ROOT GRATIN
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour 20 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Adapted from “Bistro Cooking,” by Patricia Wells.
4 baking potatoes, such as russets, peeled
Salt
1 medium-large celery root, peeled, quartered, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons each: freshly squeezed lemon juice, olive oil or vegetable oil
4 large tomatoes, peeled, cored, seeded, chopped, see note
1 large clove garlic, minced
Freshly ground pepper
3/4 cup whipping cream
2 cups grated Swiss cheese
1. Place potatoes in single layer in saucepan or Dutch oven. Cover with water; add salt to taste. Heat to boil over high heat. Cook until cooked through but still firm in center, 15 minutes. Drain; cool. Cut into thin slices.
2. Heat another pot of water to boil over high heat. Add celery root slices and lemon juice. Cook until tender, 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup of cooking liquid for sauce.
3. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add tomatoes and garlic; season with salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes. Add cream and reserved cooking liquid from celery root; stir to blend. Remove from heat.
4. Layer sliced potatoes in buttered 12-cup gratin dish. Sprinkle with half of the cheese. Arrange celery root on top. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon on tomato sauce, distributing it as evenly as possible. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake 40 minutes or until nicely browned.
Note: To peel and seed tomatoes, submerge in simmering water 15-45 seconds, depending on how ripe they are. The riper they are, the less time they require. Peel off skin and discard. Cut in half horizontally. Gently squeeze out seeds.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 325 Fat ………… 20 g Saturated fat … 11 g
% calories from fat .. 53 Cholesterol … 55 mg Sodium …….. 145 mg
Carbohydrates …… 28 g Protein …….. 11 g Fiber ………. 3.2 g
TRIPLE-C SOUP
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
This creamed soup is scented with the three C’s: celery, celery root and celery seed. It’s a great dinner party starter, because it can be prepared in advance, refrigerated, then reheated just before serving.
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) butter
1 celery root, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks
5 ribs celery, trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 carrot, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 leek, white part only, washed, sliced
2 onions, chopped
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
3 tablespoons minced fresh dill
2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon, optional
1/4 teaspoon whole celery seeds
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth
2 Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch slices
2 cups half-and-half
Salt, freshly ground pepper
Optional garnishes:
Small cubes of orange bell pepper, or cooked baby shrimp or caviar, or fresh dill or parsley
1. Melt butter in large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add celery root, celery, carrot, leek and onions. Cook 1 minute, stirring; reduce heat to low. Cover; cook 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables have softened.
2. Remove lid; add parsley, dill, tarragon, celery seeds, salt and broth; increase heat to medium-high. Cook until simmering. Reduce heat; simmer 15 minutes. Add potatoes and half-and-half. Cover; simmer over low heat 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender.
3. Puree hot mixture in 3 or 4 batches in food processor fitted with metal blade. Add more salt or pepper as needed. Ladle into soup bowls; garnish as desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 180 Fat ………… 11 g Saturated fat … 7 g
% calories from fat .. 54 Cholesterol … 30 mg Sodium ……. 675 mg
Carbohydrates …… 16 g Protein ……… 5 g Fiber ……… 2.4 g
