In the history of the great American hamburger, somewhere between the CD-flat patties of fast-food land and the 2-inch thick behemoths stuffed on a bun at steakhouses, there is the classic version served at Top-Notch Beefburger in Chicago’s Beverly neighborhood.
The burgers, made from ground-fresh round steak (not the shaped-and-shipped-three-weeks-ago variety), arrive with fries, proclaimed on the menu as “pre-WWII style french fries.” Add a milkshake to the order and your taste buds will travel back to the happy days of bobby socks, high school and rock ‘n’ roll. In fact, Top-Notch Beefburger was around when rock ‘n’ roll was born, with the Soulian family serving up burgers and fries since 1942.
The burgers are the reason most head to Top-Notch, but those who avoid red meat will find salads, tuna melts and fish on the menu. The young staff is on the ball, whirling up milkshakes and stacking platters–the classic beige plastic diner variety–up their arm then hauling them to the crowd that fills tables in this laid-back eatery.
Mountain-waterfall paintings adorn the wood-paneled walls, joining hanging plants and piped-in music (a la the Andrews Sisters) as mood setters. A counter with stools dominates the restaurant.
All that is irrelevant when it comes to the matter at hand: indulging one’s appetite for burgers. Our flavorful and juicy burgers, arriving on tasty buns, earned resolutions from tablemates to return again. Burgers are available in “basic,” “deluxe” and “specialty king size” versions.
The basic is just that. The 1/4-pounder costs $2.80, the 1/2-pounder (dubbed king size) $4.45, and the 3/4-pounder (dubbed super king size) $5.70. The deluxe version–in those three weights and priced at $4.45, $6.20 and $7.50, respectively–comes with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, onions, pickles and fries. Add cheese (sharp American, Swiss, Monterey jack, jalapeno jack or mozzarella) and the price jumps 25 cents on the 1/4-pound versions and 50 cents on the 1/2- and 3/4-pounders.
The three specialty king-size burgers (from $6.80 to $7.50) include a Western (bacon plus cheese), Italian (marinara sauce plus cheese) and Mexican (guacamole plus cheese). We loved the burger patty melt ($3.55), which oozes cheese from between thick slices of caraway rye.
And those fries? They are crisp and addictive and have only one competitor on the menu, the big, plump, fragrant onion rings ($1.75).
We enjoyed the slightly sweet version of the tuna salad done as a melt ($3.25) and ordered the meal’s primary vegetables (beyond potatoes and onions, of course) in a Greek salad (on special at $4.25) that arrived with its requisite olives, feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers and cool crisp lettuce. A red-meat-averse diner opted for a turkey burger ($3.30) and enjoyed the flavorful poultry patty.
Several simple sandwiches (grilled cheese, BLT, etc.) fill out the menu. Heartier appetites might opt for a platter that comes with soup or coleslaw. We tried the ocean perch ($5.55), and were pleased with the amount of lightly breaded and nicely fried fish, potatoes and slaw, but less than enthusiastic with the bland, brown gravy on the potatoes.
The meaty, spicy chili ($1.50 cup, $1.95 bowl) found fans at our table, while the soup of the day ($1 or $1.60) was a disappointing tomato-rice mix that was more beef than tomato.
If you’re ditching the diet, try a milkshake ($1.75 (12 ounces); $2.95 (22 ounces).
You’ll have fun scooping or sipping the yummy Oreo version, the perfect finish to a retro feast.
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Top-Notch Beefburger Shop
(2 forks)
2116 W. 95th St.
773-445-7218
Hours: 7 a.m to 8 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; breakfast served until 11 a.m.; closed Sun.
Noise level: Conversation-friendly Wheelchair accessible
Credit cards: Not accepted
Ratings key:
4 forks: Don’t miss it
3 forks: One of the best
2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
