(1 fork)
1843 Glenview Rd., Glenview
847-724-7999
Kitchen hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., 6 to 10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.; 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 6 p.m.-11 p.m. Sat.; 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Sun.
Reservations: Not accepted.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly.
First impressions
This rundown 1878 home definitely is not a candidate for the National Register. Twenty neon beer signs decorate the exterior and half-a-dozen picnic tables offer the possibility of outdoor dining in season. Inside, the ambiance is that of a time-worn roadhouse. The large front room, done entirely in wood, contains more signs, more picnic tables, a 40-foot bar and six television sets. Two other rooms offer a pool table and video games.
On the plate
Choices are stick-to-the-ribs American snack foods and sandwiches, plus some semi-ethnic dishes such as burritos and pizza. No desserts.
Second helpings
Barbecued chicken breast has an appealing sweet-sour tang. Pizza is crusty and toppings are well prepared, judging by one combination of sausage, mushrooms and green pepper. French fries are hot and cooked just right.
Take a pass
Shrimp po’ boy has plenty of fried shrimp pellets, but also so much lettuce and tomato you cannot pick up the sandwich. The steak burrito, ultra chewy, comes with a complementary hunk of undercooked tortilla dough attached. The house hamburger, sold in 4- or 8-ounce patties, arrives coarsely ground and well formed. In this era of concern about food safety, it is understandable that a burger might be cooked through even if ordered medium-rare, but ours was well beyond medium and, as a result, dry and dull.
At your service
You order food at the bar and pick it up there. The big variable is how involved the bartender is in his pouring obligations.
Thirst quenchers
Beer, draft and in bottle, is available in profusion.
Prices
Ten sandwiches and 13 snack foods, $3.25 to $4.50 (add 75 cents for “deluxe” presentation with fries); pizza is $4 (8-inch) or $8 (14-inch) plus 75 cents or $1.50 for each topping.
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Ratings key:
4 forks, don’t miss it;
3 forks, one of the best;
2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
