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NEW=A review added since the last Dining Guide.

Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.

* = Good

** = Very Good

*** = Excellent

**** = Outstanding

Fork reviews are based on one visit by a Tribune staffer.

1 fork = Good

2 forks = Very Good

3 forks = One of the best

4 forks = Don’t miss it

Credit card key

A American Express

DC Diners’ Club

DS Discover

M MasterCard

V Visa

American Regional

CITY

Crofton on Wells ***

535 N. Wells St.

312-755-1790

After critical successes at Montparnasse and Cassis, chef Suzy Crofton has her own place – a comfortable, sophisticated 64-seater- and a compact, seasonal-American menu with no wrong choices. Soups and salads are especially good.

Recommended: Oyster shooter, foie gras, sweet-potato soup, roasted salmon, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

erwin ***

2925 N. Halsted St.

773-528-7200

The simple menu descriptions don’t do justice to chef Erwin Drechsler’s self-styled “urban heartland” cooking, which spins Midwest ingredients into dishes that excite the palate and nurture the soul.

Recommended: Smoked trout and cilantro pancake, mussels, Door County whitefish.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $11-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Grace ***

623 W. Randolph St.

312-928-9200

Game-lovers flock to this West Loop spot for the various exotic animals that appear on the menu. But more conservative find plenty to enjoy, too.

Recommended: Blackberry-stuffed venison loin, Ambrosia cobbler.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly

recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Hubbard Street Grill ***

351 W. Hubbard St.

312-222-0770

The atmosphere is pleasant and unpretentious, the serving staff eager to please and, for the most part, precise. But chef David Schy’s imaginative, unerring taste pairings are the reason to come.

Recommended: Skirt steak, filet, rhubarb-cherry crumble.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible from Orleans Street entrance; restrooms accessible; valet parking.

Jack’s on Halsted **

3201 N. Halsted St.

773-244-9191

A moderately priced American bistro executed with flair by chef/owner Jack Daniel Jones. The menu includes a daily three-course vegetarian tasting. The inviting dining room is decorated with metallic trusses and clever, arty-looking light fixtures.

Recommended: Seared ahi tuna, grilled tenderloin, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

NEW Meritage ***

2118 N. Damen Ave.

773-235-6434

The foods and flavors of the Pacific Northwest, embellished by Pacific Rim influences, dominate the menu of this Bucktown restaurant, sibling to nearby Echo. Lighting is subdued and even romantic. A heated solarium becomes an open-air dining space in summer. And Meritage now accepts reservations, good news for those who like to plan ahead.

Recommended: Smoked-salmon maki spring roll, duck breast with duck-confit dumplings, spice seared tuna with nori polenta.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $17-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

NEW North Pond Cafe ***

2610 N. Cannon Drive

773-477-5845

Inspired by the Arts and Crafts artistic movement and blessed with arguably the prettiest restaurant setting in Chicago, this seasonal-American restaurant marries concept and location as few can. The only trouble is that 80 seats aren’t enough for all the people who want to eat here. Try the three-course vegetable menu for $19.

Recommended: Grilled venison

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $23-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.

Printer’s Row ***

550 S. Dearborn St.

312-461-0780

A Chicago institution that hasn’t skipped a beat, 19-year-old Printer’s Row offers imaginative influences from coast to coast, fashioning an eclectic mix that includes no wrong choices. Informed and low-key service contributes to a civilized, stress-free dining experience.

Recommended: Roasted pork rack, banana bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.95-$25.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Signature Room at the 95th *

John Hancock Center

875 N. Michigan Ave.

312-787-9596

Known more for its beautful dining rooms and splendid, 95th-floor views of Chicago and Lake Michigan than for its food, which, though superb at its best, can be uneven. The lunch buffet is one of the best bargains in town at $13.95.

Recommended: Portobello-tomato tart, sauteed prawn, smoked pork chop, rack of lamb.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $20-$42

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Zinfandel **

59 W. Grand Ave.

312-527-1818

Chef Susan Goss’ modern interpretations of classic American recipes form the focus of this ambitious restaurant. Each month the dishes of a particular American style or region – from Creole to Pacific Northwest to Hawaii – augment the regular menu. An eclectic collection of folk art and an abundance of wood contribute to a folksy feel, but the room runs with modern efficiency.

Recommended: Quesadilla, crayfish cakes, pot roast, pecan-crusted mahi-mahi.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sat.

Entree prices: $18-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NORTH

Flatlander’s (3 forks)

200 Village Green, corner of U.S. Hwy. 45 and

Milwaukee Ave., Lincolnshire

847-821-1234

A microbrewery with surprisingly sophisticated food. Well-crafted beers are a big draw, too, and the Prairie-inspired decor is inviting.

Recommended: Walleye pike, barbecued ribs.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted Sun.-Thurs.

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Lovells of Lake Forest **

915 S. Waukegan Rd., Lake Forest

847-234-8013

James Lovell Jr., the former Apollo astronaut, has teamed with his son, chef Jay Lovell, to launch this eye-catching and elegant restaurant serving seasonal American fare.

Recommended: Steaks, Lovells Famous Countdown Shrimp Creole, white-chocolate creme brulee.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12-$35

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking; smoke-free dining room.

NORTHWEST

Harvest Moon Cafe 4 forks

113 S. Benton St., Woodstock

815-334-9166

Rob Macey is the chef/owner of this impressive restaurant. Victorian decor and local art provide the backdrop for Macey’s imaginative Heartland cooking.

Recommended: Illinois bison steak, homemade sorbets.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

e prices: $12-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

J Gerard’s Bistro **

111 W. Campbell St., Arlington Heights

847-368-0250

A casual spot inside the Metropolis Performing Arts Centre in Arlington Heights, J Gerard’s seats 140 in comfort. The decor looks French, but the menu incorporates Asian, Cajun and Southwest-ern influences and offers a number of creative dishes no Paris bistro would touch. Which is not, in itself, a bad thing.

Recommended: Seared ahi tuna, bittersweet chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$21.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other:$2 valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

SOUTH

Courtright’s ***

8989 Archer Ave., Willow Springs

708-839-8000

The elegant, warm dining room has picture windows overlooking a forest preserve, offering an occasional glimpse of deer. You might glimpse deer on your plate, too, and other game and seafood dishes from the French-accented American menu. Hard-to-resist desserts, well-schooled service and a stellar wine list complete the picture – and what a pretty picture it is.

Recommended: Rack of lamb.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $20-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

British/Irish

CITY

Chief O’Neill’s (4 forks)

3471 N. Elston Ave.

773-583-3066

A convivial Irish bar that’s surprisingly serious about its cuisine, Chief O’Neill’s (named for a former Chicago cop, not a Celtic ruler) offers hearty food, fine imported drafts and live music most evenings.

Recommended: Corned beef and cabbage, shepherd’s pie, chicken pie.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

WEST

Irish Times Bar and Restaurant (3 forks)

8869 Burlington Ave., Brookfield

708-485-8787

Charming Irish bar where you can imagine everybody really would know your name. Fish and chips, shepherd’s pie and Guinness on tap head the pubby menu.

Recommended: Shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, Irish fry.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95 -$6.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

McNally’s Traditional Irish Pub (3 forks)

201 E. Main St., St. Charles

630-513-6300

If you’re used to being underwhelmed by Irish fare, this warm and winning pub will change your mind.

Recommended: Boxty, shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, Irish fry, apple crumble.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.25-$14.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; live traditional Irish music Sat.

Bulgarian

CITY

Mario’s Caffe (2 forks)

5241 N. Harlem Ave.

773-594-9742

The best of Bulgaria and beyond is on the menu at this Norwood Park cafe with an intensely European atmosphere.

Recommended: Guvedze, shopska, snezanka, shish kebab, creme caramel.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.99-$14.99

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Reservations: Accepted

Other: No smoking in dining room.

Cajun/Creole

CITY

Heaven on Seven on Rush **

600 N. Michigan Ave.

312-280-7774

The best Cajun-Creole food north of the French Quarter can now be found on Michigan Avenue. A sequel to Jimmy Bannos’ cult-favorite original on Wabash (still going strong), Heaven on Seven on Rush (you enter via the building’s Rush Street doors) offers the same inspired cooking in larger surroundings with longer hours and full liquor service.

Recommended: Gumbo, barbecued shrimp, Mardi Gras etouffee, bread pudding, coconut cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$18.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation- challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

The Strand Cafe (2 forks)

103 Stephen St., Lemont

630-257-2112

Jambalaya, pierogi and spaghetti mingle on the eclectic menu of this former soda fountain – which still offers one or two elaborate ice cream creations for dessert – though Cajun/Creole dishes are the kitchen’s forte.

SignatureDishes: Cajun chicken, crawfish etouffee, pasta raya.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$34.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Suggested on weekends

Other: Wheelchair accessible; BYOB.

NORTHWEST

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen 3 forks

798 W. Algonquin Rd., Arlington Heights

847-228-9551

The terrific seafood alone should ensure diners a fine time, but the noisy, nautical-meets-N’Awlins atmosphere takes the experience to a whole different level. Be prepared for long waits.

Recommended: Fried alligator, oysters Pappadeaux; blackened opelousas.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $11-$21

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Harrison’s Restaurant and Brewery 4 forks

15845 LaGrange Rd.,

Orland Park

708-226-0100

This vibrant brewpub pays as much attention to its food as it does to its hand-crafted beers. The menu has a definite Cajun bias, and steaks and salads are top-notch. There is a cigar room, patio dining and polished, congenial service.

Recommended: Jambalaya, filet mignon, bayou shrimp pasta, Key Largo lime pie.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; free parking.

Maple Tree Inn **

13301 S. Old Western Ave.,

Blue Island

708-388-3461

The former Beverly neighborhood mainstay has maintained its piquant character now that it has moved to the suburbs. Cajun-Creole appetizers often upstage the entrees.

Recommended: Hickory buttered barbecue shrimp, gumbo, pecan pie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10-$19

Credit cards: DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 8 or more.

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking; carryout available.

Chinese

CITY

Emperor’s Choice **

2238 S. Wentworth Ave.

312-225-8800

One of the stars of Chinatown. Seafood is the specialty, as a glance at the menu will confirm. For the adventurous, there is also an “acquired taste” menu with such exotica as pork bellies with preserved greens and winter serpent (rattlesnake) soup.

Recommended: Pot stickers, spicy soft shell crab, sauteedshiitake mushrooms, lobster Peking-style, eight-treasure duck.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Discounted parking (with validation) at northeast corner of Cermak Road and Wentworth Avenue; wheelchair accessible.

Hong Min **

221 W. Cermak Rd.

312-842-5026

This simple Chinatown mainstay is the embodiment of no-frills dining. But if you can do without table linens and stemware (and wine, for that matter, though you can bring your own), you will eat inexpensively and well. Dim sum served daily. (A second Hong Min at 8048 W. 11th St., Palos Hills, has the same menu, more space and a liquor license.)

Recommended: Hot and sour soup, curried chicken puffs.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$22

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more

Other: BYOB; discounted parking available.

Lao Sze Chwan (3 forks)

2172 S. Archer Ave.

312-326-5040

The Szechwan-style cooking in this Chinatown Square Mall storefront is delightfully restrained, using oil and hot peppers sparingly.

Recommended: Steamed sole, twice-cooked pork, Chinese eggplant.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$10.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Phoenix **

2131 S. Archer Ave.

312-328-0848

Uncommonly pretty dining rooms with city views, a daily dim sum service and an intriguing, well-executed menu make this arguably the best restaurant in Chinatown.

Recommended: Drunken crab, Buddha’s Delight, Peking duck, pork shu mai.

Open: Dinner and dim sum Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$30

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; discounted parking.

NORTH

Chinoiserie (4 forks)

509 4th St., Wilmette

847-256-0306

You’ll find excellence on a tiny scale in this small nouvelle Chinese restaurant with Southeast Asian influences. The food is terrific; getting a table is the challenge.

Recommended: Spring roll, Chinoiserie shrimp, yu shong chicken.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $10.95-$17.95

Credit cards: Not accepted

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends.

Other: No smoking.

Szechwan Kingdom (3 forks)

545 Waukegan Rd., Northbrook

847-562-1368

A respite from the hubbub of Brookside Plaza, Szechwan Kingdom’s strengths include an experienced culinary staff and very attractive dining rooms.

Recommended: Taiwan chicken roll, chicken with orange peel, Hunan mixed vegetables, lake Tungting shrimp.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended for parties of 5 or more

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

House of Emperor (4 forks)

1212 S. Naper Blvd., Naperville

630-983-8284

This suburban restaurant serves a variety of dishes, especially seafood, with a breadth, sophistication and attention to service that many Chinatown establishments lack.

Recommended: Stuffed crab claws, Emperor’s Special, Peking pork chop.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$24

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout available.

Uncle Lou (3 forks)

246 N. Cass Ave., Westmont

630-515-8889

At Uncle Lou’s you’ll find a lot of typical Chinese-American dishes, but you’ll also discover several steamed fish options, three kinds of Chinese greens and four different preparations of tofu. And there’s also a sushi bar.

Recommended: Rainbow roll, oxtail and spinach, twice-cooked pork.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.- Fri.

Entree prices: $6.95-$12.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

Fortune Kookie 3 forks

570 N. Smith St., Palatine

847-776-7770

With a fortune cookie, it’s what’s inside that counts. This is true of Fortune Kookie, where an unassuming exterior masks a menu of regional Chinese and Thai dishes with an emphasis on healthy preparation.

Recommended: Seafood soup, chow fun, pot stickers, orange beef.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $7-$16

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Carryout available

Cuban

CITY

Ambassador Caffe (3 forks)

3605 N. Ashland Ave.

773-404-8770

Taking a seat at one of the eight tables in this unassuming storefront guarantees a hearty serving of satisfying Cuban home cooking.

Recommended: Yuca con mojo, El Famoso sandwich, Valencian paella, rueda de surrullo.

Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$14.95

Credit cards: A, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: BYOB; no smoking.

WEST

NEW Cafe Bolero (3 forks)

7426 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park

708-456-6100

This quaint and colorful storefront is a suburban offshoot of the Cafe Bolero on Western Avenue. It serves a sizzling array of authentic Cuban favorites, and entrees come with ample side dishes: tender white rice, black beans and deep-fried sweet plantains.

Recommended: Stuffed yuca, ropa vieja, chicken stew, flan de leche.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.50 to $22.50

Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Copa Cubana (4 forks)

224 S. Main St., Naperville

630-983-2672

A converted laundromat has become a stylish storefront where chef Michael Munoz creates captivating Cuban cuisine. His dishes are traditional, distinguished more by textures and intense aromas than by heat; spice is a subtle layer rather than a dominant force.

Recommended: Congri, lobster paella, empanadas de langosta, ropa vieja.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tues.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10.25-$21.95

Credit cards: A, V, M, DS, DC

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Eclectic

CITY

Echo ***

1856 W. North Ave.

773-395-3474

This grazer’s paradise in Bucktown exclusively features small plates – smaller than entrees, more complex than appetizers- divided into “hot” and “cold” categories. Dirk Flanigan’s cooking incorporates influences from around the globe. Prices are reasonable, so that a do-it-yourself degustation need not be cost-prohibitive.

Recommended: Lobster ceviche, tuna trio, beef salad, sea scallops.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Prices: $6-$12

Credit cards: DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking Wed.-Sat.

NEW The Outpost **

3438 N. Clark St.

773-244-1166

This quirky Wrigleyville restaurant is sort of a loose homage to the South Pacific trade route, embracing Southeast Asian influences on its eclectic menu. But most dishes work, nearly every entree is priced under $20 and the interesting wine list has lots of lesser-known and unknown bottles at attractive prices.

Recommended: Appetizer tasting plate, ostrich, crabcake with chipotle mayonnaise, duck composition, fruit “maki rolls.”

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Free parking lot

Saussy **

1156 W. Grand Ave.

312-491-1122

Cuban, Asian and South-western flavors blend surprisingly well at this 50-seat West Side newcomer, whose ever-changing menu is bound to offer a few surprises any time you walk in. The best strategy? Order a tasting menu, which showcases the kitchen’s best work and always delivers more than you expect.

Recommended: Mojito-marinated opah, stuffed quails, cumin-crusted pork.

Open: DinnerTues.-Sat

Entree prices: $19-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; BYOB.

NEW Sinibar *

1540 N. Milwaukee Ave.

773-278-7797

Most restaurant-cum-nightclub concepts trade in glitzy atmosphere and luxury-ingredient menus, but Sinibar, which has a Moroccan-themed dining room upstairs and a hot lounge downstairs, keeps things affordable and approachable. The menu, decor notwithstanding, is bistro-ish French-Italian, designed by co-owner John Bubala of Thyme.

Recommended: Mussels, steak frites, seared salmon, crepes St. Germain.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $10-$15

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Tilli’s *

1952 N. Halsted St.

773-325-0044

The menu is global in its reach, but this North Side neighborhood spot couldn’t be more down to earth. The atmosphere and food are unpretentious and simple dishes are generally handled well. Spice-happy diners will be pleased with several menu items.

Recommended: Steamed mussels, grilled salmon, Big @#!!! Burger.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., breakfast Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Not accepted

Noise: Conversation-

challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking after 6 p.m.

SOUTH

Lavery’s Pub (2 forks)

6657 South St., Tinley Park

708-633-8240

The menu at this hip-casual south suburban spot has Italian, American and French influences. Service is especially congenial.

Recommended: Appetizer combo, petite prime rib/shrimp de jonghe combo.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends.

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; private parties; carryout; catering.

Orbie’s International Cafe (2 forks)

525 Torrence Ave., Calumet City

708-891-3900

Take a gastronomic trip around the world via Orbie’s vast menu, which includes selections from the cuisines of the Caribbean, Europe, Asia and the American South.

Recommended: Crab cakes Victoria, linguine with mussels, peach cobbler.

Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$20

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; catering.

Filipino

CITY

Rambutan **

2049 W. Division St.

773-772-2727

Jennifer Aranas’ delightful “Filipino fusion” food, served tapas-style to encourage experimentation, is what draws people to this 65-seat West Side restaurant. Recommended: Lumpia, snapper ceviche, shrimp fritters, Mahjong Tiles.

Open: DinnerMon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.75-$13

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

French

CITY

Ambria ****

2300 N. Lincoln Park West

773-472-5959

From its matter-of-factly efficient staff to its modest-to-a-fault menu, Ambria has established and maintained the definition of fine-dining in Chicago. The five-course petite degustation ($55) is generally a good bet, and the seven-course grand degustation ($75) is better still. Matching wines to tasting menus can be daunting, but sommelier Bob Bansberg is a treasure.

Recommended: Medallions of venison with blackberry sauce, lamb loin with rosemary infusion, chocolate euphoria.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $32-$36

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: No smoking in dining room; jacket required; no denim permitted; valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

Aubriot ***

1962 N. Halsted St.

773-281-4211

Eric Aubriot has made a name for himself with this fine Halsted Street restaurant. His French cooking is light but packed with flavor, and he doesn’t mind challenging diners with bold combinations. Unfussily appointed linen-topped tables and exceedingly attentive service – overseen by Stephanie Aubriot, Eric’s wife – contribute to a formal and friendly atmosphere.

Recommended: Fricassee of frog legs and veal kidneys, foie gras with chocolate sauce, sauteed monkfish, roasted rabbit loin, Cointreau souffle, warm chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$32

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Bistrot Margot ***

1437 N. Wells St.

312-587-3660

Joe Doppes, who also owns Francesca on Taylor, sticks to his beloved French cooking at this Old Town bistro, and the passion is evident in every bite. The Art Nouveau decor is authentically French, right down to the overcrowded dining room.

Recommended: Coq au vin, grilled salmon, beef Wellington, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.$19.95

Entree prices: $12.95-$19.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking; smoking in bar only.

Bistrot Zinc ***

3443 N. Southport Ave.

773-281-3443

1131 N. State St.

312-337-1131

Everything, from the painstaking decor (including an imported vintage zinc bar) to the precise bistro cooking, rings of authenticity. Brunch, offered Saturdays and Sundays, is a particularly pleasant feature.

Recommended: Bouillabaisse, dessert crepes, creme brulee.

Open: Dinner, lunch Tue.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$22

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Accepted (for bistro only)

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Brasserie Jo ***

59 W. Hubbard St.

312-595-0800

This festive Alsatian brasserie is the brainchild of Jean Joho, chef/proprietor of the four-star Everest. The 220-seat space features soaring ceilings, oversized murals, wide-open sightlines and a zinc-topped bar (an area you’ll get very familiar with if you arrive sans reservations). More important, it features the cooking of Joho at his unintimidating and affordable best.

Recommended: Escargots a l’Alsacienne, steak tartare, onion tart Uncle Hansi, choucroute, coq au vin, bread pudding.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $8.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Chez Joel ***

1119 W. Taylor St.

312-226-6479

A straightforward French bistro by Joel Kazouini (who also owns Clark Street Bistro), Chez Joel impresses on every level. Painstakingly presented dishes taste as good as they look, service is low-key and precise and the sun-dappled dining room is pretty and comfortable.

Recommended: Leek tart, brandade, bouillabaisse, steak au poivre, Night and Day cake, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12.95-$23.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

Cyrano’s Bistrot & Wine Bar **

546 N. Wells St.

312-467-0546

The estimable Didier Durand is the chef and owner of this romantic bistro, ably assisted by his wife, Jamie, who runs the front room and manages an off-the-beaten-path wine list that includes, fittingly, wines from Bergerac.

Recommended: Onion tart, bouillabaisse, apple tart.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $10.95-$22.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

The Dining Room ****

Ritz-Carlton Hotel

160 E. Pearson St.

312-266-1000

Everything about this opulent room seems to announce “you expect the best, and we are prepared,” and the restaurant indeed delivers, from Sarah Stegner’s outstanding French and American cooking to exemplary service. No other restaurant in Chicago offers so elaborate a cheese presentation. The wine list is heavy with big names and big vintages, and goes deeper than most budgets dare follow.

Recommended: Foie gras with balsamic syrup, rack of lamb, cheese course, Grand Marnier souffle.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.

Entree prices: $29-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

Entre Nous ***

200 N. Columbus Drive

312-565-7997

On the lobby level of the Fairmont Hotel is this sedate and elegant dining room, where a straightforward, French-influenced menu benefits from expert execution, and extraordinary creature comforts make you feel pampered.

Recommended: Rack of lamb, chocolate de’lice.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $27-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Everest ****

440 S. LaSalle St.

312-663-8920

More so than any restaurant in Chicago, Everest strives to dazzle you before the meal begins. The private valet parking area, the series of elevator rides, the opulent decor, the grand view, the warm and knowing service – yet all of this is just so much backdrop to the grand creations of master chef Jean Joho, whose Alsatian origins lead him to compose culinary symphonies from the humblest ingredients. While dining at Everest is an education, it isn’t final-exam time at every turn; servers keep things approachable and unintimidating. A superlative wine list matches the superlative dining experience.

Recommended: Venison with huckleberries, fantasy of chocolate.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $29-$36

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Complimentary valet parking; pre-theater dinner ($44 for three courses).

La Petite Folie **

1504 E. 55th St.

773-493-1394

An unpretentious but refined Hyde Park restaurant near the University of Chicago campus, La Petite Folie excels at unfussily presented French food that lets the simple, pure flavors shine through. The pristine dining room, with white walls and thick floral-pattern carpeting, is a lovely and quiet setting; youthful servers are poised and surprisingly polished.

Recommended: Phyllo-wrapped lamb loin, chocolate torte.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tues.-Fri.

Entree prices: $15-$24

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking in dining room.

La Sardine **

111 N. Carpenter St.

312-421-2800

Jean-Claude Poilevey’s “other” restaurant (he also owns Le Bouchon in Bucktown) is this West-of-Loop bistro across from Oprah Winfrey’s Harpo Studios. The pretty brick-and-wood interior is short on space (perhaps that explains the name) but long on comforting French classics, executed handily by chef David Burns.

Recommended: Leek-bacon tart, salade Gascone, sweetbreads, bouillabaisse Jean-Claude, Grand Marnier souffle.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $12.50-$20

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Le Bouchon **

1958 N. Damen Ave.

773-862-6600

Look up the word bistro in the dictionary, and there ought to be a picture of Le Bouchon beside it. Simple, hearty food, reasonably priced, in a communal atmosphere that makes newcomers feel welcome.

Recommended: Duck for two, onion tart, salade Lyonnaise, steak with fries, chocolate marquis, apple tart.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $11-$14.75

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Adjacent parking lot; wheelchair accessible.

NEW Le Passage **

One Oak Place

312-255-0022

The dining half of this restaurant/nightclub hybrid is a 70-seat space with small tables, cushy upholstered seats and decor out of an Indiana Jones flick. But beneath the textured murals and gold-leaf trim and pulsing house music is a surprisingly down-to-earth bistro menu by Jason Boywid. Just be sure to finish eating-or at least conversing-before 10:30, when the dance floor heats up.

Recommended: Vichyssoise, country salad, crab cakes, roasted chicken, duck breast.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Valet parking; late-night menu.

Les Nomades ***

222 E. Ontario St.

312-649-9010

From its jacket-and-tie dress code to its intolerance of loud conversation, Les Nomades has the sensibility of a private-club- which this elegant, two-story restaurant once was – though under owners Roland and Mary Beth Liccioni (ex-Le Francais), things have loosened up somewhat. The refined atmosphere is mirrored by the cuisine, characterized by harmonious flavors and uncommon ingredients.

Recommended: Foie gras duo, lobster ravioli, flourless chocolate cake.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.

prix fixe dinner: $72

Entree prices: $24-$27

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended for dinner

Noise: Hushed

Other: Valet parking; jacket required; no smoking.

Marche **

833 W. Randolph St.

312-226-8399

Most everything is on a grand scale here – the soaring ceilings, the over-the-top theatrical decor, the noise level and the stylishly turned-out see-and-be-seen crowd. Marche’s kitchen is very good to excellent nearly all the time, creating fine bistro classics with contemporary twists.

Recommended: Steak tartare, peppercorn-crusted ostrich, roasted chicken, duet of duck.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $16-$34

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Mon Ami Gabi ***

2300 Lincoln Park West

773-348-8886

A classic French bistro. The interior is light-filled and decorated with oversized wine bottles and stuffed game birds; the menu, by Claude Gaty, includes plenty of satisfying choices, including four versions of steak frites and a plat du jour selection that includes Dover sole meuniere (Fridays) and rack of lamb (Saturdays).

Recommended: Coquilles Gabi, vegetable terrine, steak frites, trout grenobloise, boeuf bourguignonne, profiteroles.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12.95-$27.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

NoMI ***

800 N. Michigan Ave.

312-239-4030

A glittering showpiece in the Park Hyatt Hotel, NoMI offers dazzling views wherever one looks, including the lavishly appointed dining room, the display kitchen complete with sushi station, and the inspiring seventh-floor views of the city. Sandro Gamba’s French-International menu features straightforward, approachable cooking and delicate portions.

Recommended: Risotto, chocolate fondant cake.

Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $26-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking in dining room.

NORTH

Carlos’ ****

429 Temple Ave.,

Highland Park

847-432-0770

Somehow, Carlos and Debbie Nieto keep finding top-notch talent to run the kitchen of their North Shore gem, now in its 18th year. Chef de cuisine is Ramiro Velasquez, whose classic, perfectly balanced cooking is enhanced by camera-ready presentations. The front room staff, led by Carlos himself, is relaxed in its approach, yet unfailingly attentive. This is dining at its unintimidating best.

Recommended: Venison, red snapper, chocolate mousse pyramid.

Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $28-$36.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Jackets required; wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Jacky’s Bistro ***

2545 Prairie Ave., Evanston

847-733-0899

Jacky Pluton is back, his charming bistro (which burned to the ground in 1999) brought back to life in Evanston. The menu is in two parts-a “classic” list of traditional dishes and a “market” list of seasonal, contemporary dishes. There are also chef’s choice degustation meals, which let Pluton flex the culinary muscles he once displayed as chef at four-star Carlos’.

Recommended: Escargots, steak frites, funnel.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13.75-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Valet parking

WEST

Bistro Banlieue ***

44 Yorktown Convenience Center, Lombard

630-629-6560

This west suburban charmer is looking very spiffy after an extensive makeover and expansion in 1999. Decor is softly lit, the muted yellow walls giving the dining room a golden glow. The classic bistro menu is well-executed, and customer-friendly touches, such as petite-portion entrees for smaller appetites, abound.

Recommended: Roast duck, steak Banlieue, chocolate mousse.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $10.95-$21.95

Credit cards: A, C, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Cafe 36 ***

22 Calendar Court, La Grange

708-354-5722

The name refers to the restaurant’s location, abandoned a year ago, but Reinhard Barthel’s classic French-Continental cuisine is impressive whatever the address. There are always three or more game dishes on the menu, varying with the season; owner Reinhard Barthel Sr. is an avid hunter and at times is personally responsible for the game birds in the kitchen.

Recommended: Lobster in phyllo purse, cream brulee.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.

Entree prices: $11.95-$28.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Les Deux Gros **

462 Park Blvd., Glen Ellyn

630-469-4002

The name (roughly translated, the Two Fat Guys) is a self-deprecating reference to girthsome owners Tom and Michael Lachowicz, who operate this sunny west suburban gem. Brother Michael is the well-traveled chef, and he delights patrons with indulgent ingredients cooked with considerable style. A well-thought-out wine list and understated professional service are big pluses.

Recommended: Venison, bouillabaisse.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.

Entree prices: $24-$28

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.

Opus **

1600 W. 16th St., Oak Brook

630-928-0901

The unassuming exterior of this strip-mall restaurant hides a charming, white-tablecloth dining room with dramatic halogen lighting and a long granite-and-steel bar. Chef Stephen Leonard prepares contemporary French food with an artist’s eye, favoring vertical presentations and subtle seasonings.

Recommended: Lobster bisque.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $17-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking lot.

NORTHWEST

Christophe **

111 N. Main St.,

Crystal Lake

815-444-0374

Charming, intimate, quiet and comfortable, Christophe stands in stark contrast to the pack-’em-in food-barn mentality that afflicts so many new restaurants. The 56-seat, white-tablecloth dining room is a lovely setting for chef/owner John Havlis’ French-influenced food. The small, thoughtfully chosen wine list has attractive prices.

Recommended: Bouillabaisse Christophe, chocolate ganache brownie.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Wed.-Fri.

Entree prices: $14-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Smoking not permitted; wheelchair accessible.

D&J Bistro (4 forks)

466 S. Rand Rd., Lake Zurich

847-438-8001

One of the suburbs’ first bistros, D&J still outpaces the competition with fresh French cooking and budget-friendly prices.

Recommended: Escargot cassoulet, duck liver mousse, ostrich medallions, sausage and lentils.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.

Entree prices: $13-$21

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Le Francais

REVIEW PENDING

269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling

847-541-7470

Founding chef Jean Banchet sold his fine-dining jewel in March; now running the kitchen is chef/partner Don Yamauchi, whose experience as chef/partner at Gordon and executive chef at Carlos’ makes him perhaps the ideal successor. Though such Banchet signatures as duck consomme remain on the menu, Yamauchi has added such updated dishes as Dover sole roulade with tarragon fumet and foie gras terrine with caramelized bananas.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $31.50-$34.50

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; jackets preferred; no smoking.

Le Titi de Paris ***

1015 W. Dundee Rd., Arlington Heights

847-506-0222

A 29-year-old that doesn’t show its age, Le Titi never fails to surprise and delight with its contemporary menus. Michael Maddox is the chef de cuisine these days, but founding chef and owner Pierre Pollin is never far from the kitchen. For great value and variety, try the $53, six-course menu gourmand.

Recommended: Ahi tuna carpaccio, salmon and mascarpone terrine, mushroom veloute, mixed-berry napoleon.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Thurs.-Fri.

Entree prices: $26-$29

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Le Vichyssois ***

220 W. Ill. Hwy. 120, Lakemoor

815-385-8221

Bernard Cretier opened this country-French restaurant in what was, in 1976, a rather remote corner of the Chicagoland area. Though still a considerable drive from the city, Le Vichyssois continues to justify the trip, by virtue of its attentively prepared, top-quality cooking (at relatively modest prices), and lovely surroundings that, with their off-white and silver colors, have the look of expensive wedding gift-wrap. European dessert service – a wheeled cart from which patrons select up to three desserts – is worth a trip in itself.

Recommended: Vichyssoise, galette of crab, veal loin with hedgehog mushrooms, fruit tarts.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $16-$34

Credit cards: DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking available.

SOUTH

Burgundy Bistro (4 forks)

3462 Vollmer Rd., Olympia Fields

708-747-5399

This cozy gem has been discovered, to the dismay of regulars who wanted to hog this uncompromisingly fresh neighborhood bistro for themselves.

Recommended: Grilled portobello, shrimp Albear, blackened ribeye, pesto pasta.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $9.95-$22.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Cafe Gaston ***

14438 John Humphrey Dr., Orland Park

708-403-3663

Try to name another restaurant where you can order a feuillete au fromage (puff pastry filled with ham and cheeses) and a tuna melt off the same menu. The bright, casual place is pleasant for a sit-down meal, but its early closing hour ( 8 p.m.) and small waitstaff make it better suited to satisfying carryout cravings.

Recommended: Gaston’s salad, feuillete au fromage, crab cakes Dijonaise, chicken farfalle, grilled veggie sandwich, apple French bread pudding.

Open: Breakfast, lunch, early dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5-$10.50

Credit cards: A, M, V

Other: Delivery; catering menu.

Dionne’s Cafe (4 forks)

606 N. Dixie Hwy., Momence

815-472-6081

Fifty miles south of downtown Chicago is a picture-perfect hideaway with delicious food and attentive service.

Recommended: Pithivier, pate, lamb.

Open: Dinner Fri.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $15.50-$27.50

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Required

Other: No smoking

Tallgrass ***

1006 S. State St., Lockport

815-838-5566

Far from the bustle of Chicago sits this uncommonly good restaurant, whose charms draw customers from 60 miles and more. The restaurant sits in a small house decorated in Victorian splendor; the cuisine by chef/owner Robert Burcenski is equally impressive, though more contemporary in presentation.

Recommended: Shrimp in three styles, lobster basket, pancetta-crusted pike, duck and goose breast, chocolate-raspberry tower.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $45 (three-course), $55 (four-courses), $65 (five-courses), and $75 (seven-course chef tasting).

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Required

Noise: Hushed

Other: Wheelchair accessible

Wayside Manor (4 forks)

1216 Main St., Crete

708-672-8080

This is an oasis of Victoriana where you can experience 19th Century splendor (minus corsets and starched collars) while enjoying exceptional Escoffier-inspired cuisine. The 94-year-old house/restaurant has been lovingly restored and meticulously appointed by its resident owners, Jim and Alma Howard.

Recommended: Roulade of pork loin en croute.

Open: Dinner Thurs.-Sat.

Entree prices: $20.95-$23.95

Credit cards: M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Other: Free parking

German

CITY

The Berghoff ***

17 W. Adams St.

312-427-3170

A must-visit stop on any first-time visitor’s list. The Berghoff, more than a century old, is so awash in Chicago history it’s easy to relegate the restaurant to the past. But the restaurant, which continues to offer solid, no-nonsense German standards and American dishes, is holding its own at a time when many of Chicago’s German restaurants are closing.

Recommended: Wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, sausage combination, sirloin steak salad, Black Forest cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat.

Entree prices: $8.95-$17.95

Credit cards: A, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Reduced parking rates after 4 p.m. at Mid-Continental Plaza; wheelchair accessible.

NORTHWEST

Edelweiss Bistro *

7650 W. Irving Park Rd., Norridge

708-452-6040

American dishes dot the menu of this northwest suburban restaurant, but the German specialties, as good as you’ll find anywhere in Chicago, are the real reason to dine here.

Recommended: Hackepeter, rouladen, St. Johanner reindl.

Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat.

Entree prices: $14.95-$26.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free parking.

The Heritage House (3 forks)

21225 E. U.S. Hwy. 14, Harvard

815-943-6153

Gracious, warm service and substantial German and American specialties make this far northwest spot worth the drive.

Recommended: Wiener schnitzel, apple strudel.

Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun.

Entree prices: $5.25-$26

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Other: Wheelchair accessible

SOUTH

Die Bier Stube (3 forks)

42 Kansas St., Frankfort

815-469-6660

From knockwurst to strudel, all the hearty German favorites are here. As an occasional treat, however, this is a great choice.

Recommended: Wiener schnitzel, spaetzel, potato pancakes.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $15-$19

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

(except Sat.)

Other: Salad bar; beer garden.

Greek

CITY

Costa’s **

340 S. Halsted St.

312-263-9700

1 S. 130 Summitt Ave., Oakbrook Terrace

630-620-1100

Very good cooking and extremely friendly service characterize these city and suburban Greek spots, whose spacious dining rooms are done in terra-cotta and white tones with oak trim.

Recommended: Stuffed calamari, shrimp piperates, taramosalata, whole sea bass, Athenian chicken, ek-mek katafi.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$25

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; free valet parking.

Papagus ***

Embassy Suites Chicago

620 N. State St.

312-642-8450

The menu at this River North hot spot relies heavily on mezedes, small appetizer plates similar to Spanish tapas and equally suited to grazing. The food is fresh, imaginative and carefully crafted. Service is very informative and efficient. A second Papagus, in Oakbrook Center in Oak Brook, is nearly identical.

Recommended: Tirosalata (feta-cheese spread), grilled octopus, spanakopita, broiled lamb chops, baklava, lemon-yogurt cake.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking after 5 p.m.

The Parthenon **

314 S. Halsted St.

312-726-2407

Greektown is about loud laughter, big smiles and hearty, simple food. And the Parthenon fulfills this mission about as well as any restaurant in Greektown. This is the birthplace, after all, of flaming saganaki, and, claim the owners, the first restaurant in America to serve gyros – still homemade here.

Recommended: Gyros, mezedes assortment, lamb with artichokes, grilled quail, broiled snapper.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $7-$15.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-challenged

Other: Complimentary valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

QP **

200 E. Chestnut St.

312-751-2100

Formally decorated, with a sizable wine list and a wide-ranging menu including high-quality steaks and chops, QP challenges the common perceptions of Greek restaurants.

Recommended: Lamb chops, stuffed calamari, skordalia, grilled octopus, broiled snapper, yuvetsi, ravani (semolina cake with honey).

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $12-$38

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.

Santorini **

800 W. Adams St.

312-829-8820

One of the least touristy stops on the Greektown circuit, but popular among serious eaters. Stick to the seafood and you’ll be fine at this charmingly rustic restaurant, although the roasted chicken is a good bet, too.

Recommended: Charcoal-grilled octopus, taramosalata, shrimp tourkolimano, whole red snapper, whole black sea bass, chicken Santorini, homemade yogurt, baklava.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8-$13.

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Complimentary valet parking; wheelchair accessible.

Indian

CITY

Jaipur Palace **

22 E. Hubbard St.

312-595-0911

Exotically seasoned food and elegant surroundings go hand in hand at this handsome Indian restaurant, whose decor includes warm walls with arched openings, backlit ceiling panels in bright colors and starched white tablecloths. The food is pretty as well; even the murkier vegetable dishes arrive in elegant vessels. The daily lunch buffet, $8.95, is a bargain.

Recommended: Chooza pakora, dal makhani, seafood combination platter, lamb mughlai biryani, chicken vindaloo.

Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $9-$40

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.

Klay Oven ***

414 N. Orleans St.

312-527-3999

Indian cuisine with fine-dining standards. The restaurant features lovely decor, extraordinarily well-versed and helpful staffers, descriptive menus, an impressive selection of wines and beers and adventurous, freshly cooked food.

Recommended: Jheenga til tinka (marinated prawns), tamatar shorba (tomato soup), machhli ke tikke (tandoori-baked mahi-mahi), sikandari champa (marinated rack of lamb), tardka dal (curried lentils).

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $6.95-$24.95

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Reservations: Strongly recommended

Noise: Conversation-friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible

WEST

Khyber Pass 4 forks

1031 Lake St., Oak Park

708-445-9032

Mohammad Jawid’s restaurant offers a sensational culinary passage to a rich and varied Indian cuisine.

Recommended: Samosa, onion kulcha, Khyber naan, tandoori chicken, chicken mukhni, bengan bhurta, vegetable biryani, rice pudding.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.50-$12

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Other: Wheelchair accessible

NORTHWEST

Indian Garden (3 forks)

855 E. Schaumburg Rd., Schaumburg

847-524-3007

Rich aromas of cumin, curry, cinnamon and sizzling onions waft from the restaurant, whetting the appetite. Inside, flavors are complex and satisfying.

Recommended: Appetizer assortment of vegetable fritters, meats, samosa dumplings; mulligatawny soup; chicken tikka masala; gulab jamun.

Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $8.95-$14.95; $7.95 for lunch buffett.

Credit cards:A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Lunch buffet; wheelchair accessible; carryout.

SOUTH

Tandoor (3 forks)

1535 U.S. Hwy. 41, Schererville, Ind.

219-865-9511

Sophisticated Indian food in unpretentious surroundings awaits those who venture to this shopping-center locale. Low prices will appeal to bargain hunters.

Recommended: Smoked eggplant puree.

Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.

Entree prices: $4.95-$11.95

Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V

Reservations: Accepted

Other: Wheelchair accessible