NEW=A review added since the last Dining Guide.
Star reviews are based on at least two visits by the Tribune critic.
* = Good
** = Very Good
*** = Excellent
**** = Outstanding
Fork reviews are based on one visit by a Tribune staffer.
1 fork = Good
2 forks = Very Good
3 forks = One of the best
4 forks = Don’t miss it
Credit card key
A American Express
DC Diners’ Club
DS Discover
M MasterCard
V Visa
African
CITY
Ethiopian Diamond Restaurant and Lounge (3 forks)
6120 N. Broadway
773-338-6100
If you’re in the mood for the tangy, spicy cuisine of Ethiopia, served on a round platter the size of a pizza pan, this is a great place to have around.
Recommended: Zilzil, veggie combo.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $7-$10
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Ofie (4 forks)
3911 N. Sheridan Rd.
773-248-6490
The fiery food and exotic trappings at this lavish little West-African restaurant will transport diners to some inconspicuous nook on the periphery of a Ghanian or Nigerian bazaar. Don’t miss the delectable fufu dishes: A combination of yams and plantains, they’re meant to be eaten by hand, and should be pressed into service scooping up the thick, savory stews.
Recommended: Oguan nam (lamb stew), Palava fish (catfish steaks), kaza sabongari, fufu dishes.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $10-$17
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
American classic
CITY
Atwood Cafe **
Hotel Burnham
1 W. Washington St.
312-368-1900.
An ideal drop-in-anytime spot in the heart of the Loop, featuring an unintimidating menu of updated comfort-food classics. The decor is formal enough to be taken seriously, but humorous enough to be comfortable and inviting, and the 18-foot ceilings and large windows let in lots of natural light.
Recommended: Pot pie.
Open: Dinner, lunch, breakfast Mon.-Sun.; brunch Sat, Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Chicago Firehouse Restaurant **
1401 S. Michigan Ave.
312-786-1401
Built in a converted firehouse (you can still see the fire poles and the gleaming brick tiles in the bar), this South Sider is a model of restraint, from the tasteful decor to the straightforward American menu. Service is especially good.
Recommended: Trout, New York strip steak.
Open: Dinner Tues.-Sun., lunch Sun.-Fri.
Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
437 Rush **
437 N. Rush St.
312-222-0101
The old Riccardo’s, a celeb and media hangout in its day, has been transformed by Phil Stefani into a well-managed steak and seafood restaurant. The handsome, Art Deco-accented decor is augmented with pictures of media celebrities and journalists past and present. Lunch diners can choose from the regular menu downstairs or a light cafe menu in the upstairs room.
Recommended: Prime rib, Kansas City strip, lamb chops, chocolate pave.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14.95-$45
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NEW Petterino’s **
150 N. Dearborn St.
312-422-0150
In look and feel a throwback to dining in the ’40s and ’50s, Petterino’s is done in dark wood and red leather, its walls covered with caricatures of celebrities past and present. The menu is heavy with steaks and chops, but includes some old-fashioned dishes, including excellent potato pancakes. Petterino’s location inside the Goodman Theatre building in the Loop makes it a handy lunch and pre- and post-theater dining destination.
Recommended: Shrimp de jonghe, red snapper soup, tomato bisque, NY strip steak, fettuccine Alberto, chocolate pudding, cheesecake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $12.95-$35.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Valet parking; wheelchair accessible.
Twisted Spoke (4 forks)
501 N. Ogden Ave.
312-666-1500
Small-town diner fare meets biker-bar ambience here. Everything is made from scratch, so meals can take some time to arrive; the delicious food (in gargantuan portions) is well worth the wait. Service is attentive and friendly.
Recommended: Onion rings, Fatboys (hamburgers), Alberto’s jumbo burrito.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6.95-$8.95
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Wildfire **
159 W. Erie St.
312-787-9000
270 Oakbrook Center Mall, Oak Brook
630-586-9000
235 Parkway Dr., Lincolnshire
847-279-7900
A very simple, very effective concept in which nearly everything on the menu is cooked over wood – including the fire-roasted prime rib, the restaurant’s specialty. Focal point of the dining room is a triple hearth with roaring fires visible from every seat.
Recommended: Various steaks, prime rib, barbecued ribs.
Open: All locations: dinner Mon.-Sun.; Lincolnshire: lunch Mon.-Sat.; Oak Brook: lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $12-$25.99
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NORTH
The Studio (3 forks)
8717 N. Lincoln Ave., Morton Grove
847-965-1962
This former speakeasy is now home to a restaurant whose Art Deco decor and classic menu exude a sophisticated feel.
Recommended: Prime rib, Key lime pie.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $11.50-$24
Credit cards: DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Other: Wheelchair accessible
WEST
Country House (3 forks)
2095 S. Kirk Rd., Geneva 630-208-8181
These west-suburban establishments (there are locations in Countryside and Lisle as well) have a reputation for quality pub fare. And it’s a well-deserved reputation, given the outstanding burgers here. A full half-pound of sirloin, the burger seems best served on dark rye, topped with cheese, tomato, leaf lettuce and perhaps grilled or raw onion.
Recommended: Burgers, spinach salad.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.95-$16.50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: For parties of eight or more.
Dell Rhea’s Chicken Basket (3 forks)
645 Joliet Rd., Willowbrook
630-325-0780
Dell Rhea’s has been around since the 1940s, and its staying power is deserved. The menu has not only the terrific all-American fare that has made the place a Willowbrook institution, but also more contemporary dishes.
Recommended: Fried chicken, roast turkey.
Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sun.
Entree prices: $6-$16
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Reservations: Accepted for 5 or more.
Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout available.
J. Alexander’s (4 forks)
1410 16th St., Oak Brook 630-573-8180
A chain that breaks the chain mold, this American concept impresses from its attentive service to its far-beyond-ordinary food.
Recommended: Prime rib, grilled salmon, Very Best chocolate cake.
Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9.95-$26.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Zander’s Cafe (4 forks)
2241 Maple Ave.,
Downers Grove
630-435-9520
Zander’s Cafe creates homestyle dishes that go way beyond the usual definition of homestyle. And there’s no skimping on ingredients or portions.
Recommended: Whitefish with artichoke hearts, roasted vegetable quesadillas, bananas foster.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $6.95-$12
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; catering.
NORTHWEST
Haystacks Manor (4 forks)
5603 Bull Valley Rd., McHenry
815-344-7919
Though it sounds like a place to go for chuckwagon food, Haystacks Manor is all relaxed elegance inside. Food is pricey, but the skilled kitchen justifies the expense.
Recommended: Shrimp de jonghe, wild-mushroom lasagna, N.Y. strip steak.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14.75-$24
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Zweig’s Restaurant (2 forks)
228 N. McHenry Rd., Buffalo Grove
847-541-3354
Zweig’s has been a tradition since 1918, at its original location on Chicago’s West Side; now (after stops in Skokie and Niles) it resides in the northwest suburbs. The restaurant has as many identities as it has homes; it’s a combination restaurant, delicatessen, bakery and ice-cream fountain. But its strong suit is deli dining.
Recommended: Corn beef and cabbage, matzo-ball soup, carrot cake.
Open: Dinner, lunch and breakfast Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $4.95-$10.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted for parties of 6 or more.
Other: Wheelchair accessible
SOUTH
Chef Klaus’ Steak & Seafood Cafe (3 forks)
679 LaGrange Rd., Frankfort
815-469-0940
What appears to be a nondescript storefront is a delightful restaurant with a variety and commitment to quality worthy of special-occasion status.
Recommended: Crab cakes, mahi-mahi, grilled ahi tuna.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $12.50-$23.50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Dunlap’s (2 forks)
6513 W. 123rd St., Palos Heights
708-388-5335
A supper-club atmosphere with homestyle food and value pricing.
Recommended: Emily’s chicken & dumplings, portobello mushrooms with artichoke hearts, pan-fried chicken, fruit pies.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $14.75-$24.25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Hobknobs in the Park (3 forks)
8101 W. 123rd St., Palos Park
708-923-1218
A pretty, glittering restaurant that features interesting twists on American standbys. One unusual feature is the supervised children’s play room.
Recommended: Crab cakes, brie en croute, chicken breast Wellington, Lucille parfait.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $13.95-$23.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible
House of Hughes (2 forks)
14300 S. Cicero Ave., Crestwood
708-389-4636
Traditional American food is the mainstay of this spacious south suburban restaurant.
Recommended: Barbecued ribs, strawberry shortcake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat, brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $8.95-$26.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Ken’s Guest House (2 forks)
9848 Southwest Hwy., Oak Lawn
708-422-4014
An unpretentious family eatery with a massive wine list (more than 220 vintages) and a wide-ranging American menu.
Recommended: Oysters Rockefeller, fried catfish, N.Y. strip steak.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $11.95-$21.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Public Landing (2 forks)
200 W. 8th St., Lockport
815-838-6500
This sister property to the elegant Tallgrass sits in a landmark building along the I&M Canal. Decor is appropriately folksy, strewn with quilts and tapestries, but though the menu includes a wonderful cornbread, the kitchen veers occasionally from tradition.
Recommended: Blackened chicken spring roll, grilled mahi-mahi, devil’s food cake.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14-$25
Credit cards: M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
The Wild Boar (2 forks)
14240 Southwest Highway, Orland Park
708-226-0418
The North Woods meets the south suburbs in this somewhat surreal hunting lodge-style restaurant where the menu always features at least three game dishes, along with steaks and pastas.
Recommended: Wilddish of portobellos, prime rib, chocolate suicide cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $5.95-$25.95
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; carryout; children’s menu.
Whitney’s Bar & Grille (2 forks)
9333 S. Cicero Ave.,
Oak Lawn
708-229-8888
The fine-dining room of the Oak Lawn Hilton is known for its casually romantic decor and widely varied entrees.
Recommended: Blackened ribeye, Black Forest cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $13.95-$29.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Other: Wheelchair accessible
American contemporary
CITY
Bin 36 ***
339 N. Dearborn St.
312-755-9463
This wine-centric restaurant manages to cater to serious neophyte imbibers alike. The property contains a retail shop, wine bar, casual eatery and a fine-dining room featuring inventive food by chef Bernard Laskowski. The five-course menu is a great option.
Recommended: Gnocchi with mushroom ragout, striped bass, veal paillard, triple chocolate surprise.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sun., breakfast (coffee bar and pastries) Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$28
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Blackbird ***
619 W. Randolph St.
312-715-0708
At this tres hot spot along the Randolph Street restaurant corridor, Paul Kahan’s contemporary American cuisine relies on pristine produce and simple, prettily presented preparations — though “simple” doesn’t do justice to the depth of Kahan’s food.
Recommended: Ahi tuna tartare, fish soup, venison, cocoa crepe.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices:$16-$28
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; smoking in bar area only.
Brett’s *
2011 W. Roscoe St.
773-248-0999
An eminently civilized Roscoe Village charmer. Decor is not fancy, but it’s warm and appealing: Soft lighting, moderate-volume classical music, wonderful bread at the table — this is a nice place to hang out, especially off-weekend. Creative American cooking, solid desserts.
Recommended: Potato taco, red snapper corncakes, pork chops.
Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $9-$19
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations:
Recommended on weekends
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
Charlie Trotter’s ****
816 W. Armitage Ave.
773-248-6228
A fine-dining masterpiece that enjoys a national reputation, Charlie Trotter’s is one of the city’s treasures. Trotter, winner of the James Beard Foundation’s 1999 Outstanding Chef Award and 2000 Outstanding Restaurant Award, is as experimental as they come, creating extraordinarily complex dishes whose range of tastes and textures can be mind-boggling even to sophisticated palates. The printed menu lists only degustation dinners, consisting of seven to 12 courses in petit portions, designed to expose patrons to the widest range of tastes. Trotter’s all-vegetable degustation, in particular, is a singular and revelatory experience. The sophisticated yet very friendly service is top-notch. The expansive wine list, though pricey, offers excellent values.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: Vegetable menu, $100; Grand menu, $115
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible (entrance ramp on east side of building); jacket required; no smoking in dining room; valet parking.
NEW D’Vine ***
1950 W. North Ave.
773-235-5700
D’Vine seems a much more mature place these days, having abandoned its “cool” alley entrance for a more sensible street-side door and featuring polished, French-influenced American food by Michael Kerwin. Make a point of sampling the four- or five-course prix-fixe dinner (available Mondays-Thursdays), a good deal.
Recommended: Scallops in curry cream, beet salad, ostrich tenderloin, wild-berry clafoutis.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $16-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Smoking in bar only; wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Feast **
1835 W. North Ave.
773-235-6361
A likeable neighborhood spot with vaguely Middle Eastern decor and a globe-trotting menu that includes several veggie-friendly dishes. A beautiful atrium space in back is one of the city’s best summertime dining environments.
Recommended: Marinated skirt steak.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun.
Entree prices: $12.50-$17
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking
Green Dolphin Street ***
2200 N. Ashland Ave.
773-395-0066
Unquestionably the best place in the city to enjoy fine dining and high-grade entertainment, albeit not simultaneously. The dining room (and, weather permitting, the sheltered riverfront patio) offers globally inspired but classically grounded dishes by chef Rick Gresh; the adjacent lounge is a spacious, sensual environment with live music (no cover for dinner guests).
Recommended: Seared scallops, strawberry-chevre tart.
Open: Dinner Tues.-Sun.
Entree prices: $45 (3-course); $55 (4-course); $65 (5-course).
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Harvest on Huron ***
217 W. Huron St.
312-587-9600
Alan Sternweiler’s superb American food has an impeccable home in this sophisticated and joyful environment, an art-filled space loaded with creature comforts – not the least of which is the well-chosen 400-bottle wine list and a breathtaking selection of cognacs and other spirits. Knowledgeable, convivial service is the icing on the cake.
Recommended: Scallops and oxtail tower, roasted sweetbreads, roasted rabbit, poached pear.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14-$31
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation- challenged
Other: Valet parking; late (midnight most nights) serving hours.
MK ***
868 N. Franklin St.
312-482-9179
Stylish decor, sleek server uniforms, Christofle flatware and Riedel stemware – no detail has been overlooked at MK. Michael Kornick’s cooking marries clean flavors to eye-appealing presentations. Mindy Segal’s imaginative desserts provide each meal with a rousing finale.
Recommended: Tuna tartare with celery root remoulade, N.Y. strip steak, banana bread pudding, Apple Napoleon.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $15-$34
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
MOD ***
1520 N. Damen Ave.
773-252-1500
Decor-cuisine contrasts don’t come much more extreme than chef Kelly Courtney’s simple, clean food and MOD’s riot-of-color, shiny plastic interior, but somehow it seems to work, mostly because MOD, however wild, is a comfortable space, and Courtney’s cuisine, however serious, shines with wit and vigor.
Recommended: Ribeye steak, chocolate assortment.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$26
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Free parking lot; wheelchair accessible; smoking in bar only.
NEW Molive ***
Whitehall Hotel
107 E. Delaware Pl.
312-573-6300
There’s a lot to stare at in this whimsical dining room. The decor is a jumble of faux mink trim, leopard-print fabric, shimmering plasticized curtains and brightly colored paintings that somehow melds into an agreeable whole. Bart Hosmer’s California-style food is more grounded, but miles above typical hotel fare. And the ambitious beverage program includes a 200-bottle wine list, with 40 of the selections served by the glass.
Recommended: Mussels, artichoke salad, scallops with “paella risotto,” osso buco, chocolate lava cake.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $19-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Smoking in bar only; valet parking; wheelchair accessible.
NEW Naha ***
500 N. Clark St.
312-321-6242
Carrie Nahabedian employs her considerable culinary skill, honed at such restaurants as Le Francais, La Tour and the Four Seasons (Chicago and Beverly Hills), at her restaurant, whose contemporary American menu abounds with Californian and Mediterranean influences. The wide-open dining room is spare, but warm and comfortable.
Recommended: Barigoule of artichokes, vanilla-scented scallops, mustard-glazed salmon, Moulard duck, strawberry consomme.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $20-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Valet parking; wheelchair accessible.
Nine ***
440 W. Randolph St.
312-575-9900
A singular dining experience, even if it’s a steak and seafood spot at heart, Nine combines visual flash and luxury-dining elements to make familiar food seem exotic and exciting. Prime steaks are impressive, seafood is beautifully prepared and there must be at least six ways to order caviar. Not surprisingly, people dress up here.
Recommended: Caviar cones, seafood platter, pancetta-wrapped sea bass, root-beer float.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
one sixtyblue
REVIEW PENDING
160 N. Loomis St.
312-850-0303
Martial Noguier, who engineered the Pump Room’s comeback, has moved to this strikingly contemporary dining room, whose eye-catching decor is by acclaimed designer Adam Tihany. Noguier terms his cuisine “modern American with a French twist,” embodied in dishes such as rack of venison with chestnut dumplings and cherry sauce, and seared scallops with hedgehog mushrooms and white-turnip veloute.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Entree prices: $18.50-$29
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Park Avenue Cafe ***
199 E. Walton Pl.
312-944-4414
Americana accents project a down-to-earth charm for one of the most creative restaurants in town. The kitchen produces eye-popping presentations that remain unpretentious, and low-key service is nearly flawless. The American dim sum brunch is a treat that must be experienced.
Recommended: Swordfish chop, Park Bench dessert, bittersweet chocolate cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $18-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
The Pump Room
REVIEW PENDING
1301 N. State Pkwy.
312-266-0360
Andrew Coates, late of The Greenery in Barrington, has taken over the kitchen after the departure of Martial Noguier, introducing a more American-grounded menu that has plenty of room for innovation, including pepper-crusted salmon and veal chop stuffed with prosciutto and asiago cheese. The front-room staff, improved dramatically in the last year, keeps the elegantly appointed dining room running smoothly.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $23-$34.50
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Hushed
Other: Jackets required at
Rhapsody ***
65 E. Adams St.
312-786-9911
The luxury dining room inside the glittering Symphony Center serves as stage to culinary artistry, featuring a menu by the renowned Roland Liccioni. Reservations aren’t difficult to come by when the symphony is on hiatus, but once the season starts, pre-concert tables are scarce.
Recommended: Roland’s signature terrine, seared scallop, onion-crusted sturgeon, rack of lamb.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $19-$29
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
NEW Rushmore ***
1023 W. Lake St.
312-421-8845
Named not for a monument but a tavern (and alleged brothel) that occupied the same building, Rushmore adds culinary dazzle to a dreary stretch of Lake Street. Michael Dean Hazen ably demonstrates that “all American” need not be tradition-bound.
Recommended: Scallops with cider vinaigrette, grilled-cheese “sandwich,” lobster pie, braised shortribs, hot-chocolate cake.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $15-$30
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Smoking in bar only; valet parking.
Seasons ***
Four Seasons Hotel
120 E. Delaware Pl.
312-280-8800
Amid the opulent decor and extravagant appointments of this first-rate hotel dining room is the food of executive chef Mark Baker, which is so beautiful in appearance and taste it’s easy to overlook how light and healthful most of it is. Fish and lean meats are accented with cunningly crafted vegetable broths and infused oils, but Baker makes room for wild game and an homage or two from his native New England. Desserts are as luscious as they get. And the Sunday brunch is one of Chicago’s best.
Recommended: Thyme-roasted scallop, lobster cocktail, roasted salmon, Colorado lamb.
Open: DinnerMon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $24-$45
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible
She She **
4539 N. Lincoln Ave.
773-293-3690
This is a fun and funky Lincoln Square gem where the tin ceiling is painted gold and the seat cushions and waiter trousers are cut from the same leopard-print cloth. The menu features playful food by chef/partner Nicole Parthemore.
Recommended: Yellowfin tuna, creme brulee, lemon tart.
Open: Dinner Tues.-Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$25
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends.
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Smoking at the bar only; wheelchair accessible.
Soul Kitchen **
1576 N. Milwaukee Ave.
773-342-9742
Expect the unexpected, and this funky dining room will never disappoint you. The “Loud food, spicy music” slogan on the busboys’ T-shirts pretty much says it all, though the appreciably spicy food isn’t mouth-searingly hot. Chef Scott Freer offers flavors from throughout the American South (not just soul food), and the daily oyster harvest is likely to be a good bet, too.
Recommended: Pecan-crusted catfish, gumbo.
Open: Dinner Sun.-Sat., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$21
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Not accepted
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Spago ***
520 N. Dearborn St.
312-527-3700
This outpost of Wolfgang Puck’s inventive California concept seems very much at home here. Attitude-free staffers and bright and cheerful (if very noisy) surroundings make the place instantly attractive, and Francois Kwaku-Dongo’s excellent cooking keeps bringing people back.
Recommended: Cantonese duck, seafood risotto.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $15.50-$28
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking; no smoking in dining room.
Tanzy **
215 W. North Ave.
312-202-0302
Bright and bold Old Town spotwithwell-prepared American food by chef Sandra Beckett. A charming outdoor patio is a big plus.
Recommended: Skate-wing, garlic-crusted lamb chops, Tosca’s Kiss.
Open: Dinner Tues.-Sat
Entree prices: $13-$21
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Valet parking
312 Chicago *
Hotel Allegro
136 N. LaSalle St.
312-696-2420
Clubby good looks and an affordable, Italian-influenced menu are the positives of this hotel restaurant, whose proximity to three Loop theaters makes it an ideal pre-performance destination.
Recommended: Veal chops, yellowfin tuna.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$24
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Tomboy **
5402 N. Clark St.
773-907-0636
Artistic presentations and imaginative dishes typify this funky Andersonville BYOB. The operation may seem a bit seat-of-the-pants at times, but there’s an eagerness to please and genuine talent here.
Recommended: Porcupine shrimp, creme brulee.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $15-$25
Credit cards: A, M, V
Reservations: Recommended on weekends.
Other: BYOB; wheelchair accessible.
Tru ****
676 N. St. Clair St.
312-202-0001
From the moment you call to reserve a table to the end of your spectacular meal, Tru labors mightily to demonstrate that every detail has been seen to, every desire anticipated. Here, the culinary talents of chefs Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand have the forum of their dreams – a beautifully realized space with the stunning good looks of a contemporary art gallery and a smoothly professional staff that makes the dining experience an unintimidating delight. Choose from a three-course prix-fixe menu, or sample one of four degustation dinners, called “collections”; either way, prepare for an onslaught of flavors, textures, aromas and visuals that will approach sensory overload.
Recommended: Mosaic of seafood, caviar staircase.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Prix-fixe dinner:$75-$150
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Required
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Jacket required; smoke-free dining room; wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
Zealous ***
419 W. Superior St.
312-475-9112
Michael Taus closed his original Zealous location in Elmhurst and moved to this spectacular space in River North to prove he could swim with the big fish, and so far he’s demonstrating just that. Exceedingly attentive servers in Donna Karan suits present Taus’ masterly cooking, which playfully creates unlikely sounding food pairings that succeed brilliantly. Degustation dinners are likely the best way to experience Taus’ food.
Recommended: Lobster gazpacho, Ode to Valrhona.
Open: Dinner Tues.-Sat.
Entree prices: $18-$26; prix-fixe menu $65.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS,M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Hushed
Other: Jacket required; valet parking; wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
NORTH
Karizma **
4741 Main St., Skokie
847-674-6163
A bright American bistro with a pretty and romantically lit dining room, a modestly priced wine list and an unintimidating contemporary-American menu.
Recommended: Wild-mushroom fricassee, tuna tartare, duck breast, wild striped bass, peach crepes.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri.
Entree prices: $14-$29
Credit cards: A, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Free parking lot; wheelchair accessible.
Trio ****
1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston
847-733-TRIO
Artistic presentations, lively flavors and outstanding service create a would-class dining experience at this North Shore jewel. Dinner is of course pricey, but Friday lunch and Sunday brunch are comparative bargains
Recommended: Caviar palette, sea scallops with baby artichoke & lobster-herb infusion.
Open: Lunch Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat, brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $25-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Other: Wheelchair accessible (assisted access to restrooms); no smoking; jacket suggested; valet parking.
WEST
NEW Atwater’s *
15 S. River Lane, Geneva
630-208-7433
The picturesque Herrington Inn along the Fox River is home to this French-accented American restaurant, whose cozy, window-filled dining room overlooks landscaped gardens and the river beyond. Its small size (45 seats) makes weekend reservations tough to get.
Recommended: Shrimp escabeche, scallop salad, rack of lamb, lemon sole, white-chocolate creme brulee.
Open: Dinner, breakfast and lunch Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $14-$32
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible; no smoking.
(This listing as published has been corrected in this text.)
Cab’s (3 forks)
430 N. Main St., Glen Ellyn
630-942-9463
The name is short for cabernet so, not surprisingly, this restaurant is serious about its wine. But the imaginative American food is worth a look, too.
Recommended: Cassoulet, chocolate torte.
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.
Entree prices: $13-$23
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
302 West ***
302 W. State St., Geneva
630-232-9302
A west-suburban gem, highlighted by chef/owner Joel Findlay’s brilliant contemporary American cooking, which is complexly flavored yet eminently approachable, even playful. Desserts are simple, often recalling childhood pleasures, and the intensely personal wine list is a trove of lesser-known delights. The dining room, set in a former bank building, is stylish, spacious and pleasantly subdued, even when live jazz music is featured.
Recommended: Grilled prawns, broiled snapper, pork tenderloin, Mounds Bar tart.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat.
Entree prices: $20-$30
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible
NORTHWEST
Marlowe’s (2 forks)
704 W. Euclid Ave., Palatine
847-991-7540
A little Italian, a little Cajun and a lot of American influences mingle in this place. Occasionally the globe-trotting gets overwhelming, but mostly it pleases.
Recommended: Grilled brie, N.Y. strip steak.
Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun.
Entree prices: $11-$24.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Other: Wheelchair accessible
SOUTH
Cafe Elise (4 forks)
435 Ridge Rd., Munster, Ind.
219-836-2233
Finding such sophisticated fare as roasted calamari with citrus poblano vinaigrette or coriander-crusted yellowfin tuna in a strip mall storefront along busy Ridge Road in Munster, Ind., is nothing short of startling. Credit chef-owner Scott Dixon, who has named this beguiling place after his first-born daughter.
Recommended: Cream-of-golden-potato soup, grilled veal chops, crab cakes, Irish-cream cheesecake.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri.
Entree prices: $13-$26
Credit cards:
A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Accepted
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: Wheelchair accessible; catering; private parties.
Clayton’s (4 forks)
66 W. Lincolnway, Valparaiso, Ind.
219-531-0612
From its understated-chic decor to its knowledgeable staff and its imaginative menu, this out-of-the-way restaurant is a gem.
Recommended: Sea scallops, roasted poussin, veal scallopine.
Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Entree prices: $14-$28
Reservations: Recommended
Other: No smoking permited; wheelchair accessible.
