It is a city whose primary reasons for existence have been state
government, Oldsmobile and the university in the town directly east.
The only reference to the school in East Lansing that will appear in this
travelogue is this: There’s no way the Spartans should have lost to Arizona,
but Duke would’ve mauled them anyway, so it doesn’t really matter.
As for Oldsmobile, nurtured and built forever in Lansing, General Motors
says the brand has reached the end of the road.
“Two years, baby, and it’s outta here,” says Joe Deschryver, whose life has
been Oldsmobile for 40 years. “That doesn’t make the old-timers real happy.”
Then there’s the state government. Government is too complex a subject for
this leisurely section, but the Capitol, the building, is a jewel.
The fact that its architect was from Springfield, Ill., is a nice
coincidence, considering the theme of this issue. The fact that he
subsequently designed capitols in Texas and Colorado and was eventually fired
by both those states–but not by Michigan–is an interesting little sidelight.
The fact that he also designed an asylum will be left for others to analyze.
So what is Lansing today?
It’s a downtown with a newly approved master plan that, until implemented,
is all potential. Take away the Capitol, and downtown Lansing is not quite
Waukegan. It has one downtown hotel–a Radisson, mainly for lobbyists, other
friends of legislation and automoguls–and that’s it.
The rest of the city (population: 125,716) feels like a workers’ town,
which isn’t a bad thing but suggests some limits. The one truly elegant
restaurant nearby is 14 miles down the road, the English Inn in Eaton Rapids.
Said one of its managers, asked where to find more fine dining nearby: “I’d go
to Detroit or Grand Rapids.” They are not nearby.
Michigan, Michigan
So unless you’re trying to get a tax break for your piston company, is
there any point in spending a couple of days in Lansing? Amazingly, yes–and
bring the kids.
First, though, here’s something you probably didn’t know: The town, created
in 1847 just to be the state’s capital city, was originally called “Michigan,
Michigan.” But a couple of months later, before Sinatra could record it, it
was changed to “Lansing.”
Now, let’s start with that Capitol, which should be the starting point of
any Lansing visit. Begun in 1872, it was dedicated in 1879; a three-year
restoration was completed in 1992. From the outside it looks like just about
any classical Capitol building, though this one–resembling the big guy in
Washington that went up just a few years earlier–set the tone for the concept
on a state level.
It’s the inside that’s the dazzler.
To stay on budget, the thrifty Michiganders of that post-Civil War era
eschewed the expensive trappings of Italian marble and precious walnut and
leaned heavily on local pine and domestic stone. To compensate, artisans were
brought in to paint columns and walls–faux marble, faux walnut. Combined with
acres more of painted-on decoration, plus grand chandeliers and an inner dome
that would be a credit to any basilica, the place today feels like a cross
between hallowed halls of democracy and the Chicago Theatre.
Kids on tours, and you’ll see lots of them, were agape. You will be too.
“It’s your Capitol, folks,” guide Chris Benson told one particularly awed
group of middle-schoolers. “This is the most beautiful building you’ll ever go
into . . . “
GM’s imprint
General Motors is inescapable, even if the Oldsmobile is doomed to join the
REO (another locally made auto created by–Ransom Eli Olds), Studebaker and
Maxwell in Motor Car Heaven. The Lansing Car Assembly Plant currently
assembles Pontiac Grand Ams, Chevy Mailbus and Olds Aleras–400,000 cars
annually.
“We produce more cars than any city in North America,” said Kent Love of
the Lansing Convention and Visitors Bureau. The loss of Oldsmobile, he said,
will be countered by production of new Cadillac and Chevy models. “We’re
disappointed to be losing the nameplate “Oldsmobile,’ but things run their
course. It’s not going to affect our economy.”
Visitors can watch the assembling (tours are daily and free)–but
appointments are required (517-885-9676) and, mainly for safety reasons,
children must be at least 12. All ages are welcome at the R.E. Olds
Transportation Museum and, a short stroll away, the Oldsmobile/GM Heritage
Center.
Collectors and automobile historians will love the specimens on display at
the R.E. Olds Museum, which include a survivor from the first quartet of
Oldsmobiles–an 1897 model built by Mr. Olds.
Also on display: The last Oldsmobile 88 to roll out of Lansing, from ’99.
“That,” said a retired dealer who volunteers there, “was the beginning of the
end for Oldsmobile.”
The other museum may be of more interest to folks who actually worked in
the industry–lots of old forges, stamping presses, grinders and in-house
memorabilia–but there’s also this: the very last ’75 Delta 88 Royale
convertible off the line, also assembled in Lansing. You’ll want it. You can’t
have it.
Baseball too
Then there’s Oldsmobile Park. It’s downtown, near the Olds museums and the
Radisson, it’s a neat ballpark, and it’s the home of the Lansing
Lugnuts–which is not only a Cubs’ Class-A affiliate but is home of those two
lovable mascots Big Lug and Ratchet. The latter’s name probably adjusts
depending on how the game is going and how much beer has been consumed, but
the team drew 438,000 at home last year, which is very good.
“Elvis Night” is July 27.
Right behind the ballpark is Lansing City Market, where you can buy a
sandwich, fondle produce and, if you’re lucky, meet Tomato Lady and Jam
Man–not to be confused with Turkey Man, who sells barbecued turkey sandwiches
and cooked turkey parts in Oldsmobile Park. “Turkey Man,” beamed a Lugnuts
marketing man, “–that’s something you don’t have in Chicago.”
Cars are only part of the story at the Michigan Historical Museum, a couple
of blocks west of the Capitol. This one traces the state’s history from its
geological roots (can rocks have roots?) through its settlement by
Paleo-Indians, then Europeans, and the social and economic upheavals that
followed.
Here, you’ll learn Grape-Nuts were created in Battle Creek in 1898, two
years after S&H Green Stamps were born in Jackson. A mockup of a 1940s home
has a radio playing “I Got a Gal in Kalamazoo.” Very Michigan.
Historians also will appreciate the Michigan Women’s Historical Center and
Hall of Fame, a tribute to women who made a difference. Really little kids
will get a kick out of the Impression 5 Science Center, another one of those
hands-on children’s things. And right next door, you can learn everything you
could possibly want to know about levels, compasses and transits.
Zoo too
“There are only two manmade things you can see from outer space,” said Bill
Stark, executive director of the Michigan Museum of Surveying. “The Great Wall
of China and the rectangular survey system.”
For outside fun, there’s Potter Park Zoo, walks (or in-line skatings) along
the paved trail that follows the Grand River or, just a few miles west in
Grand Ledge’s Fitzgerald Park, the Ledges Trail that’s cut into the Grand
River bluffs.
The Ledges aren’t zowie-dramatic–this isn’t Utah–but this trail and the
park’s other nature trails are a nice break from dioramas and glassed-in
artifacts.
One more surprise: Lansing is a theater town. Throughout the year (except
mid-June through mid-August), the professional BoarsHead and the community
Riverwalk Theaters offer productions ranging from Shaw to musicals to classic
comedies and shows for children.
And if that still isn’t enough: East Lansing, right next door, has its own
cultural lineup and, probably still, great deals on “MSU 2001 NCAA Champions”
T-shirts.
OK, that’s two references. I lied.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Weekend expenses for one
Lodging (two nights, including one dinner) …. $310
Other meals …………………………….. $112
Museum admissions …………………………. $6
Parking ………………………………….. $7
Baseball ticket (reserved) ………………. $6.50
Gas …………………………………….. $45
Total ……………………………….. $486.50
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Lansing is about 215 miles from Chicago. Take the Dan Ryan Expressway
(Interstate Highway 90-94, using the Chicago Skyway if the traffic volume
dictates, then I-94 when they meet past Gary) through northwest Indiana, into
Michigan and past Battle Creek to Interstate Highway 69. Continue on I-69 to
Interstate Highway 96, take that west to Michigan Highway 99 (Martin Luther
King Boulevard) and drive north on 99 into the city. You’ll see the Capitol on
the right. (Note: I-496, the usual route into downtown and east into East
Lansing, is under repair, by sections, through the summer. For updates, check
www.fix496.com on the Web.)
GETTING AROUND
Many of Lansing’s museums and attractions, including the Capitol, are
clustered downtown. For the rest, unless you’re already familiar with the
area’s efficient bus service, you’ll probably need a car or taxi
(517-482-1444). Parking is plentiful and low-priced, either at meters or in
lots.
LODGING
The only choice downtown within walking distance of the Capitol, many of
the museums, baseball’s Oldsmobile Park and the playhouses is the Radisson
Hotel-Lansing (111 N. Grand Ave.; 517-482-0188 or 800-333-3333;
www.radisson.com). Weekday rates are about $135/double; weekends are often
cheaper, depending on occupancy.
I stayed (alone, a waste) at the more romantic and charming English Inn
(677 S. Michigan Rd., Eaton Rapids; 517-663-2500; www.englishinn.com). It’s an
easy 14-mile drive south and has six rooms with bath (including a room called
Bath) plus two cottages, one of which can sleep eight. Prices range from $95
for the smaller cottage to $175 for the two larger rooms, including breakfast;
ask about corporate rates (even if you aren’t corporate) and packages that
include dinner (see Dining, below).
The rest of Lansing’s lodgings are primarily chain motels (Holiday Inn,
Best Western, etc.), many clustered along I-69 near the Michigan 43 (Saginaw
Highway) exit; off I-96 south of town at exit 104 (Cedar Street); and in East
Lansing on all sides of Michigan State University.
DINING
By all accounts, the finest upscale dining around is at the English Inn
(see above). Entrees average around $23; expect to spend about $40 per person
plus wine or cocktails. (The dining room is also open for lunch.)
Emil’s (2012 E. Michigan Ave.; 517-482-4430), oldest restaurant owned by
the same family in Lansing, dates to a 1921 fruit stand. East of downtown,
it’s neighborhood Italian, and you’ll have work to spend more than $20 per
person.
Pizza is king at DeLuca’s (2006 W. Willow St.; 517-487-6087), north and
west of downtown, family owned for 40 years. Try the house special (lots of
stuff), which will stuff two people for $11.60; there’s also the usual pastas,
chicken and veal.
The Knight Cap (320 E. Michigan Ave.; 517-484-7676), downtown near the
ballpark and the convention center, is a compact cigar-martini-steakhouse with
the marvelous feel of a bordello waiting room. The other extreme, a few blocks
east: Clara’s Lansing Station (637 E. Michigan Ave., 517-372-7120), a family
restaurant (with bar, discreetly off to the side) that begins in a converted
1903 rail station and overflows into a restored dining car.
Check out the Lansing City Market, behind Oldsmobile Park, for noontime
sandwiches among the apples and peaches and flowers; on game nights, the
Nuthouse Sports Grill, across from the ballpark, is handy for a pregame burger
or postgame refreshment. The Parthenon (Greek, of course) anchors downtown’s
Washington Square, near the Capitol, where you’ll also find a few kid-friendly
fast food joints.
TOURS AND SUCH
Free tours of the Capitol, usually including visits to the House and Senate
galleries, run every half hour beginning at 9 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m.
Saturdays (517-373-2353). Reservations only for large groups. Visitors are
also welcome to roam on their own, but you’ll miss plenty without a guide.
Reservations are required for free tours of the Lansing Car Assembly Plant
(517-885-9676). Kids must be at least 12. Also free, the Michigan Historical
Museum (517-373-3559) is a multi-story exhibition of the story of the
Wolverine State.
Charging just a couple of bucks each and all downtown within a block or two
of each other (and a comfortable stroll from the Capitol): The R.E. Olds
Transportation Museum, Oldsmobile/GM Heritage Center, the Museum of Surveying
and Impression 5 Science Center, a children’s museum.
PLAYS–AND PLAYS
A Cubs Class-A minor league affiliate (Midwest League, same as the Kane
County Cougars), the Lansing Lugnuts’ season runs from April into September;
final home game this season is Aug. 28. Most Saturday home games are Fireworks
Nights. Oldsmobile Park tickets: $7 (box seats), $6.50 (reserved) and $5.50
(lawn). For information: 517-485-4500, or www.lansinglugnuts.com on the Web. .
. . Tickets for the BoarsHead Theater are $24 Thursdays and Sundays, $29
Fridays and Saturdays, with discounts for seniors and students. Young People’s
Theater shows are $6 for all. For details: 517-484-7805, or www.boarshead.org.
. . . Tickets at Riverwalk Theatre are $10 for plays, $12 for musicals, with
discounts for seniors and children. Children’s shows are $6 for adults, $4 for
kids. For details: 517-482-5700, or www.Riverwalk.The Theater.com.
INFORMATION
Call the Greater Lansing Visitors Center at 888-2-LANSING; or check
www.lansing.org on the Web.
–A.S.
———-
Alan Solomon’s e-mail address is alsolly@aol.com.
