(2 forks)
116 N. Willard Ct.
312-492-7330
Hours: 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Mon.-Fri.
Credit: A, DC, D, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Picture a spot where TV beatnik Maynard G. Krebs and Ralph Kramden would feel equally content. Think Cafe’s decor is part kitsch, part homespun, with the slightly run-down, funky charm any beatnik would love. Its menu of hearty, carefully prepared dishes is served in portions generous enough even for Ralphie boy. Nine close-packed, oilcloth-covered tables keep diners acquainted with each others’ elbows. Four outdoor tables in front and a back patio with nine tables offer additional seating and fresh air. Parking is a serious problem, we discovered. A loading zone helps takeout customers.
On the plate
Sandwiches and wraps constitute the major portion of the lunch menu; “chef’s favorites,” a lineup of larger meals from owner Omar Rodriguez, provide comfort-food icons such as spaghetti and meatballs and meat loaf. A breakfast menu includes omelets, pancakes and a few breakfast sandwiches.
Second helpings
The Cobb wrap sandwich rolls up bacon, blue cheese, large chunks of provolone and chicken breast in a toasted whole-wheat pita; shredded lettuce and tomatoes provide crunchy support. Sandwiches come with choice of potato salad or potato chips. Listen, chips you can get anywhere–but not Rodriguez’s delicious take on spud salad: tender chunks of red potatoes arrive dressed with mayonnaise (low-fat mayo, we later discovered) and seasoned with Italian herbs. Spaghetti and meatballs made an admirable impression. Three tender, chubby all-beef meatballs partner a bowl of perfectly cooked pasta; everything is topped with a pleasing, slightly sweet marinara sauce. Three large wedges of garlic bread accompany the dish. The meat loaf dinner brings two large, fork-tender slices of the ground beef loaf, joined by slightly overcooked garlic mashed potatoes; the assortment of seasonal stir-fried vegetables that accompanied the dish was marred by an overabundance of pesto-flavored sauce. Desserts are made here. We enjoyed the classic brownie with, yes, homemade flavor and lots of walnuts.
Take a pass
The flavor of the Italian beef sandwich passes muster, but it arrived lukewarm.
At your service
The waitstaff–just a party of one on our visits–is low-key and friendly. You won’t be rushed. No matter how busy the place got, he didn’t seem to sweat it, managing a decent pace and relaxed approach. (A waitress has since been added.)
Thirst quenchers
Soda from the fountain and bottled iced teas, as well as a full complement of coffee; the espresso machine was broken on one visit–Maynard wouldn’t have been happy–but has since been fixed. You can bring your own beer or wine.
Prices
Soups, $2.50; salads, $3.95-$5.95; sandwiches and wraps, $4.25-$6.25; full-course entrees, $7.25-$7.95; beverages, 75 cents-$1.50; desserts, $1-$2.50.
———-
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
