We go through so many long, gray months when the vegetable choices seem starchy and repetitive that summer’s profusion of brightly colored produce can at first be a little overwhelming. In a good way, of course.
That’s why it helps to pull out favorite vegetable recipes from your collection for inspiration, or turn to a new book, “Vegetables Every Day,” by Jack Bishop (HarperCollins, $30).
This artichokes-to-zucchini encyclopedia presents simple, engaging recipes for whatever is crowding the kitchen counter, from spicy snow peas with cashews and roasted beet salad with lemon and olives, to red pepper spread with goat cheese and herbs. Bishop, a regular contributor to Cooks Illustrated magazine, among other publications, avoids elaborate preparations and ingredient lists, allowing the vegetables to shine with just a few flavorings.
He jump-starts the reader’s appreciation for each item, presented alphabetically throughout the book, with chapter introductions discussing the origin of the vegetable; other names, if any; the months of availability; and tips on selection, storage and the best cooking methods.
These vital statistics are followed by several recipes–sometimes half a dozen, sometimes as few as two–that are plainly illustrated with single-color sketches of the vegetable itself.
What the book lacks in dazzle it makes up for in sweet simplicity, from the design to the recipes. Stir-fried spinach with caramelized shallots and green onions, broccoli with orange-ginger dressing or dandelion greens with bacon and onion would cross over from workday dinner to stylish dinner party with no effort at all.
We were drawn to corn pancakes seasoned with Parmesan cheese and chives and loved their hot-off-the-griddle crispness and sweet corn flavor. Bishop doesn’t offer frozen or canned corn as an alternative in this recipe, but just between the rest of us, they would work in a pinch.
A stellar selection was the braised green beans with tomatoes, olives, capers and basil. This classic Mediterranean combination of ingredients works beautifully as a side dish to grilled chicken or fish, and best of all, is just as good the next day once all the flavors have time to meld. Summer picnics also would be enhanced with the Asian cucumber salad tossed with sesame oil and seeds, hot pepper flakes and a tart splash of rice wine vinegar.
The book doesn’t cater to spring and summer alone–the title does promise something to eat every day, after all. So hardier vegetables, such as celery root, parsnips, kale and sweet potatoes also get their due.
But vegetables somehow never seem more delectable than in the warmer months, especially when home cooks are able to pull the fixings from their own kitchen gardens. Here, then, is a fine culinary companion to add to the rows on the bookshelves.
Braised green beans with tomatoes, olives, capers and basil
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This chunky, flavorful braise of vegetables, which would be terrific served alongside grilled tuna or chicken, can be made one day ahead, refrigerated and brought back to room temperature. From “Vegetables Every Day.”
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 pound green beans, ends snapped off
4 canned tomatoes, chopped, with enough packing juice added to equal 1 cup
8 large black olives, such as Kalamata, pitted and chopped
1 teaspoon drained capers
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil leaves
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat the oil in a large saute pan. Add the garlic and saute over medium heat until golden, about 1 minute. Add the beans and stir to coat them well with the oil and garlic.
2. Add the tomatoes, olives and capers to the pan and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan, and simmer, stirring two or three times, until the beans are tender but still offer some resistance to the bite, about 20 minutes.
3. Uncover and cook to evaporate any remaining tomato liquid, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the basil and salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune):
100 calories, 37% calories from fat, 4.8 g fat, 0.7 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 270 mg sodium, 15 g carbohydrate, 3.3 g protein, 5 g fiber
Asian cucumber salad with sesame
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Standing time: 1 hour
Yield: 6 servings
This light side dish gets its Asian influence from the sesame oil, but would work well with a variety of simply prepared recipes, from broiled chicken to poached fish. From “Vegetables Every Day.”
3 medium cucumbers (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut on the diagonal 1/4-inch thick
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted in a dry skillet until golden brown
1. Toss the cucumbers and salt in a large strainer or colander set over a bowl. Fill a gallon-sized zipper-lock plastic bag with ice water and set the bag on top of the cucumber slices. Drain for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, whisk the vinegar, oil, sugar and pepper flakes together in a small bowl and set the dressing aside, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves.
3. Thoroughly rinse the cucumber slices under cold, running water and pat dry with paper towels. Toss the cucumbers with the dressing and toasted sesame seeds. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 day.
Nutrition information per serving:
75 calories, 63% calories from fat, 5 g fat, 0.8 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 940 mg sodium, 5 g carbohydrate, 1.8 g protein, 1.7 g fiber
Fresh corn griddle cakes with Parmesan and chives
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 18 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Author Jack Bishop suggests serving these summertime pancakes with roast chicken and a tomato salad. The milk of freshly scraped corn on the cob adds nicely to the texture, but we think roughly chopped canned or frozen corn would do in a pinch. From “Vegetables Every Day.”
4 medium ears corn
1 large egg
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1. Remove the husks and silks from the corn. Grate the corn on large holes of a box grater set over a large bowl until the cobs are clean. (Discard the cobs.) Stir in the egg, flour, cheese, chives, salt and pepper to taste until the batter is smooth.
2. Melt the butter in a large non-stick skillet. Fill a 1/4-cup measure with batter. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the batter into the pan to form a round cake. Repeat using all the batter. (You should get 6 cakes from the batter.) Cook over medium heat, turning once, until the cakes turn a rich golden brown color on both sides, about 9 minutes. Serve immediately.
Nutrition information per serving (calculated by the Tribune):
90 calories, 34% calories from fat, 3.6 g fat, 1.8 g saturated fat, 35 mg cholesterol, 220 mg sodium, 12 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 1.3 g fiber
