(2 forks)
1415 N. Milwaukee Ave.
773-227-8200
Hours: 6 p.m.-2 a.m. Tues.-Sun.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Wheelchair accessible
Noise level: Conversationally challenged
First impressions
Just one of many storefronts lining this well-worn stretch of Milwaukee Avenue in Wicker Park, Ezuli offers a decidedly more hip interior than most, with dim lighting, a well-stocked bar along one side and closely positioned tables against brick walls. If you are not a hip-hop or world music fan, dine early, but even then conversation may be difficult to follow through the throbbing tunes. After 10 p.m., a DJ ups the level even more. Twenty-somethings fill most every corner.
On the plate
The menu is Caribbean cool. From tropical drink specials to Jamaican jerk chicken, the menu looks exciting and fresh, with touches reminiscent of Soul Kitchen, another hot spot just up the street, where Ezuli’s chef once worked. Creative appetizers, salads and burgers fill out the rest of the one-page menu.
At your service
Sassy and snappy: “Ma’am? Don’t call me Ma’am,” the lone waitress said with a grin one night, hand on hip. Corrected, we pointedly called her “miss” for the rest of the evening. There is attitude aplenty here, but service is smooth and quick.
Second helpings
The good stuff includes an appetizer called stamp ‘n’ go, which is two mild salt-cod cakes beefed up with potato and just a drizzle of slightly spicy honey habanero aioli over the top. A very good Tobago vegetable curry over coconut rice and peas mixes zucchini, red peppers and potatoes in a slightly spicy coconut stewlike concoction. Jamaican catfish with Ezuli sauce teams crisp, hot and perfectly cooked fillets with the spicy Ezuli salsa. The accompanying sweet potato fries, too limp, have good flavor. Only one dessert was offered one night, but it was cause for celebrating: a moist and rich coconut bread pudding.
Take a pass
Not-so-good stuff includes conch fritters (where was the conch?) with tamarind cream sauce and monkfish (not so fresh) Creole with black beans and rice.
Thirst quenchers
In addition to sodas and coffee, a full bar includes Caribbean beers and tropical drinks like the Ezuli martini with mango, the jerk bloody Mary and the coconut cooler. Ten reasonably priced wines by the bottle are an eclectic selection from South Africa, Chile, France, Spain and America.
Extras
A few side dishes are available as extra menu items, such as the sweet potato fries, the Caribbean slaw and the Ezuli sauce.
Price range
Appetizers, $5.50-$8; salads, $5-$7.50; sandwiches, $7:50-$8; main courses, $8.50-$11.75; side dishes, $2.50-$3; desserts, $4.50-$5, drinks, $1.50-$8
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
